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Nice! 1985?
Show your DIY Projects
- Thread starter DanC
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1982 Explorer B package(I don't know that that actually means) and we didn't get very far last night. It started sputtering and stalling out on us when we tried to take it for dinner. Smelled like it was running extremely rich though so probably a choke issue.
Run a bowden cable to it and operate it manually.
Explorer package on that model was a trim package, before Explorer was a completely different model and was relegated to the mid-size (ranger) frame. That package was introduced in the 70s (which is the same generation as the '82.) Ford rarely changes their pickups more often than every 10 years or so, at least any major design changes.
Inline 6 (300 CI) or V8 (351 or 302)? The Carter carbs were typically used on the I6, and a Motorcraft (Holley) 2150 2V was used on the V8's. Aftermarket stuff on the 8's included a lot of Holley hardware.
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You're largely spot on. It's a 4.9L 300CI with a Carter YFA 7051SA carb on it. The problem with the explorer package is it seems to vary by year and the 82 Explorer B package doesn't seem to line up with the 81 Explorer B package that I was able to find documentation on. I'm waffling on replacing the carb but my stubborness wants to get it running properly.
We have it running but my buddy Tom has the rona and isn't feeling to hot so I'm going to be avoiding him until he's recovered for now. I'm basically replacing everything that is easy and cheap to get at and then do a bunch of body work.
https://youtube.com/shorts/m11ONqeuVXo?feature=share
We have it running but my buddy Tom has the rona and isn't feeling to hot so I'm going to be avoiding him until he's recovered for now. I'm basically replacing everything that is easy and cheap to get at and then do a bunch of body work.
https://youtube.com/shorts/m11ONqeuVXo?feature=share
That Carter really isn't to terribly difficult to overhaul, IF you can find the kit and a good ultrasonic bath to clean all the ports and jets in it. It's getting harder and harder to get standard OE parts to rebuild with on normally aspirated engines, or what was at one time normally aspirated. These days, that just means it doesn't have a blower or turbo. Sounds like a fun restoration project.
And you really do need to adjust all the clearances on the choke. Those linkages get bent over time. Another thing that happens is the throttle shaft wears the bore on the throttle body and air leaks in.
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It's been cold and I had a family emergency so I haven't had a chance to look at it in a while but I'm honestly tempted to just buy a whole new carb for the damned thing and call it a day.
Hope everything's alright Hawkbox
X2 @Hawkbox. Not being nosey, but just keep us posted if ya need anything.
Good luck with the carb. Might try a remanufactured option. It may not be perfectly tuned when you get it, though. That takes time and a lotta tweaking to find the best idle and top end and then efficiency (if your objective is economy). Make sure you have the timing on that engine set to 10 degrees BTDC. Fords are VERY intolerant of off-spec timing, especially with Duraspark and later ignition systems. I could push my old '92 as high as 12 degrees before it would start pinging like crazy and the anti-knock sensor would make the TFI (Thick Film Ignition) retard the timing and the entire ignition system would go unstable. You'll have DuraSpark II on that vintage truck, I think, but it still has knock sensors to protect the engine. That engine was designed to run best on 91 octane fuel, so you're gonna have some issues running anything lower with a carb unless you open up the jets a bit. It's almost certainly going to ping under heavy acceleration or load. There's nothing to automatically adjust for the fuel quality like there is on more modern vehicles, so you may find yourself buying higher (more expensive) grades of fuel to prevent knocking and pinging. Whatever you do, make sure all the seals and 'rubber' parts in a replacement carb are Viton so that the ethanol in most gasoline these days won't swell them up. You'll be chasing carb issues forever if you just put one with stock seals in it back on there. If you're replacing anyway, consider an adapter and an aftermarket progressive two-barrel carb. I think you'll love the increase. The more air/fuel you put in that engine, the stronger it will be. I don't think you can break that old 300. Probably the toughest engine Ford ever built.
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Unfortunately my father in law died last Thursday while we were driving up to his acreage, so we helped out with the logistics and legality. We knew it was coming but it happened incredibly fast, we were only halfway there when he died. My wife is sad but she wasn't particularly close with him so it wasn't devastating.
As for your post @RoadRoach I assume it's the Duraspark 2 setup, the distributor is what I'm used to but other than buying new jets I'm not sure how I can address the octane issue. I've had to explain to my friend more than once that 10 BTDC is where it is supposed to be cause he keeps wanting to zero it for some reason. But he's kind of rammy and doesn't really read before doing things.
I've replaced all the seals but I don't know how to tell what material they're made out of, and I don't know what a progressive carb is but it sounds interesting.
As for your post @RoadRoach I assume it's the Duraspark 2 setup, the distributor is what I'm used to but other than buying new jets I'm not sure how I can address the octane issue. I've had to explain to my friend more than once that 10 BTDC is where it is supposed to be cause he keeps wanting to zero it for some reason. But he's kind of rammy and doesn't really read before doing things.
I've replaced all the seals but I don't know how to tell what material they're made out of, and I don't know what a progressive carb is but it sounds interesting.
Sorry for your loss
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Thanks Annabrit, but it happens. He basically had all the cancer from a lifetime of smoking like a chimney and working oil rigs.
We're going to go up again at the end of March to check in on his widow (not technically married so I'm not sure what to call her) because she's pretty distraught. Luckily her own son moved nearby in October so he's there to help her. He's not had much "farm" experience though so I was basically walking him through stuff and encouraging him. Going to teach him to stick weld on the next visit.
We're going to go up again at the end of March to check in on his widow (not technically married so I'm not sure what to call her) because she's pretty distraught. Luckily her own son moved nearby in October so he's there to help her. He's not had much "farm" experience though so I was basically walking him through stuff and encouraging him. Going to teach him to stick weld on the next visit.
Likewise, sorry for the loss as well, especially under the circumstances.
A progressive 2 barrel runs on one venturi until you press the throttle far enough to open up a secondary (larger) venturi with larger jets in it. More air/fuel mix, boogity boogity, zoom zoom. You can definitely feel it when the second butterfly opens. Then when operating at speed you use less fuel than a standard 2 barrel like the Motorcraft 2150 because you only have half the carb opened up until you need more power.
Take your time with that old I6 300. We can cover a few more things when you get all the family matters settled.
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The family stuff is mostly legal stuff at this point so there is no rush.
That sounds interesting, I feel like I should put real effort into getting this carb working first but I'm not sure it's worth the hassle. It's hard to tell what is a compatible one or if they're all compatible.
That sounds interesting, I feel like I should put real effort into getting this carb working first but I'm not sure it's worth the hassle. It's hard to tell what is a compatible one or if they're all compatible.
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My sympathies and prayers to your family Jason.
I looked on Amazon, and the Carter YFA is available for about $100. Kinda surprised me on the price. There are some knock-offs too, but I learned my lesson a long time ago about putting anything on a Ford that didn't come on it. Right down to the spark plug wires. It will absolutely refuse to run right. I looked around a little bit for main jets for the Carter too, but didn't have much luck. You might be better off getting a set of carb jet drills and opening up what you have. Just take a little bit at a time and see what it does.. But if it's running rich, you'll need to correct that first. That truck still had leaded fuel available for it when it was new.
If you decide to try a 2 barrel on it, you'll probably have to find an adapter for the intake, too. Most times, that can be done with the heat spacer, but on occasion, there isn't much choice but to replace the intake manifold. The carb I had on my VW was originally designed for the 2.2L in the Ford Pinto. Obviously I had to have a different intake for that, but it made a world of difference on that little 4 banger. Pretty sure that the 4.9 I6 had a 2 bbl on it somewhere along the line, but I could be mistaken. That Carter fits a lotta different 6 bangers. It was one of the few non-Ford parts used on production vehicles back then. But, Ford's ALWAYS been smart about not reinventing the wheel.
You might check into a Solex carb, too. Pretty sure they have a good replacement for the Carter YFA, if that's the way you want to go. I THINK I have a pretty good book around here somewhere that gives a good tuning procedure for carbs. What I'd highly recommend, though, is for you to get the EVTM (Electronic/Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual) for that truck as well as a Haynes manual for some of the mechanical stuff. The EVTM can be had from a company called Helm. Plug in your vehicle info, and it'll give you a price for the manual. There's a few really good Ford Truck forums around too, but you'll have to wade through the swamps a little on some of them. Not unlike any other forum out there.
The thing about doing all the work yourself is that there is a huge gratification factor knowing you beat the problems out of it. I got so tired of dealers and shade tree mechanics leaving a mess for me to repair that I simply quit using them. It's certainly a lot cheaper if you can figure it out and do it yourself, and like I said, so satisfying to know you didn't get ripped off by a stealership.
I've got a whole new learning curve now. I've got a 2014 F-150 SuperCrew with the 5.0 V8 in it. That thing is a BEAST. A bit more complicated and a lot more electronic doo-dads to play with. I've had it since it was new, but it was a fleet truck from work. Still, I know where it's been and who was driving it, so I bought it last year while I was out on disability, right after I had new tires, new struts, and new brake rotors/pads put on it. It only has 75K on the odo, so it's just getting broken in good. I added an OEM trailer brake control to it and reconfigured the PCM to recognize it. I need to replace the backup alarm we were required to have on our trucks pretty much everywhere we went. I got used to it, and it doesn't really bother me if it annoys the neighbors a little. They'll get over it. I usually back in my driveway with it so I don't bother them at night if I have to go somewhere. Or, if I come home late, I pull in forward. I try to be a good neighbor, that way, I have good neighbors.
Not sure if it's still out there, but, didn't Offy make an intake to put the baby Holley 4 bbl on the 300?
