Last thread....?

[Ward Chillington]

Ok...maybe not the best title here but you'll get when you see the pictures.

I need some suggestions as to how best to get these sheared off bolts out of this mount on my splitter...I'm thinking just some liquid wrench and vice grips....other thoughts?

 

[jschein]

Tap and die set

 

[Ward Chillington]

Tap and die set

Hmmmt...the plate was tapped prior to being welded into the I-Beam that is the frame of the splitter itself so not the ideal place or space to get a drill into.

 

[Donoroto]

There are several possibilities.

Get PBBlaster or liquid wrench or another good penetrating oil. WD40 is insufficient. Soak it down well, and gently rap the metal plate, the vibrations help the oil along.

Edit: try the easy out first if possible. Google it.

First, if you can grip the protruding ends with vise-grips, a small pipe wrench, or similar, back the bolts out towards the sheared end. The reason is that the sheared part might be damaged and too tight in the hole. If you can't grip well, or the threads get too damaged:

Then I'd try to grind or file flats onto the protruding ends, then use a wrench, vise-grips or similar, again to back them out towards the sheared end.

Last is use a center punch to mark the center (best you can) of the sheared end. Then drill a hole into the bolt sized for the largest "easy-out" screw extractor that fits and use that to remove it all. Guaranteed to work like a charm.
(If you have a tool like this, use it first before the threads that are protruding get damaged. You might even consider a trip to the hardware store to buy a set.)

 

[Josh Hughes]

You scared me @Ward Chillington with the title. I have no useful information to offer for the thread though.

 

[Craigerrr]

Don's suggestions are good ones, thread extractors are also called easy outs, and work great. You could ultimately drill them right out, then tap to a large size as well. You would just need to drill out the holes in the mating parts to match. A decent tap and die set is pretty cheap at say Harbor Freight...

By the way, WD-40 is not a penetrant, or a lubricant. The W= water, the D= displacement, 40= the 40th formulation that they tried. It is intended to displace water, to prevent bare surfaces from corroding.

 

[Zambi]

Maybe welding a piece onto it so you have grip? Sort of last resort.

Like @Josh Hughes said, you scared me as well!

 

[BillyDoster]

There are several possibilities.

First, if you can grip the protruding ends with vise-grips, a small pipe wrench, or similar, back the bolts out towards the sheared end. The reason is that the sheared part might be damaged and too tight in the hole. If you can't grip well, or the threads get too damaged! And then here is a lot of information here!

I agree that it is necessary to protect with a vise and lubricate with oil! And gradually twist! Perhaps 2 3 attempts should be done! The main thing is to be careful!

 

[west1m]

Then there is the "Hot Wrench"

 

[Minbari]

Just throw my $.02 in. As long as the flange is not hardened. Heat will work too. Map gas or welding torch. Heat the flange and the bolt should back out easier

 

[The Brew Mentor]

I've always used heat as a first option.
The other options will work as well, but I'd try heat to start. Get it red hot and then lock on the vise grips. It should come right out.

 

[Ward Chillington]

Thank all...I'll keep you posted.

 

[BlackRockBees]

If you have a pneumatic chisel, use some penetrating oil of some kind and give it a little vibe.

I had a bolt that was rust welded in and wouldn't move. A mechanic friend of mine grabbed the air chisel, gave it a little Brrrrrt, and the thing spun right out.