kegging for dummies

The keg doesn't fit in my coolerbox, but the good news is that it does fit in my fermentation fridge and in my chest fridge

Below is tapping head with spunding valve asleep in my cooler box
IMG_20230214_120056839.jpg
 
Update:
She's fermenting...
I put the spunding valve to 0.5 psi to orevent air coming in. I actually don't know if that is necessary as it should be a one way valve, but rather safe than sorry.
I'll let this go till the end of the day (30 hours after pitching) then remove the spunding valve and let 'r carb naturally.
Move the keg to the fridge when I think carbonation is fine.
Maybe all this lazy bottling in pet bottles has an advantage here ;)

And then comes the fun of figuring out how to pour, line lengths needed and all of that
 
Oh, and been googling
There is now a digital gauge for the spunding thingy that covers the whole pressure range ;)
 
I'm just wondering...
Can I take a gravity sample by increasing the pressure in the keg to 10 psi or so and then attach beer line & picnic tap to it?
Either on a baby piece of beer line or the full size?

Full size being "no idea" cm
I got eva barrier, 0.4 mm internal diameter. 3 metres in total and need/want to fit 2 or 3 picnic taps.
I found a spreadsheet that can do the calculations but I got no fixed set up (yet) and don't know what to use for "serving pressure". The default is 12 psi

Talking set up:
The kegs fit in my fermentation fridge, but I prefer to keep that for the fermenter.
I can also place them in my 12 volt chest fridge which sits at about 2-4 oC (35 to 40 F). I was thinking of keeping the beerline and picnic tap attached and inside the fridge. CO2 not permanently attached.
 
Wouldn't sampling be a bit of a waste? Done is done right? :)

Our pipe sizes use outside rather than inside diameter, 'standard' would be 3/8 inch which is 9.5mm

Keeping lines inside the fridge makes sense to me, keeps the beer in the line more cold
 
I felt I needed to take a little sample as I am still trying to see if I can carb this naturally, but by adding the extra apple juice, I added a boatload of sugar.
I managed by attaching the whole length of beer line (after calculating the volume which would be left in the line, it's not much)
Still sitting a bit high to close it all off. SG is about 1.010 and I know that it will end up at 1.000. Which to me means I would still have 25 gr/litre. Although that doesn't make sense as I added around 30 gr/ltr and there is definite co2 formation. Confused. Maybe sample isn't representative since it comes from the bottom? Going to have to sleep on that one (it was a corrected refractometer sample. I let it stand for a while to try to get rid of the CO2)

Anyway, my beer line is 8 mm outside, 4 mm inside. I needed the inside to calculate volume that would remain in the line.
I got 3 metres. Should I just chance it and cut in 2 pieces of 1.5? Or 1.25 and 1.75 m for different carbonation levels
It will be a while before I can get any more in
 
Zambezi Special said:
I felt I needed to take a little sample as I am still trying to see if I can carb this naturally, but by adding the extra apple juice, I added a boatload of sugar.
I managed by attaching the whole length of beer line (after calculating the volume which would be left in the line, it's not much)
Still sitting a bit high to close it all off. SG is about 1.010 and I know that it will end up at 1.000. Which to me means I would still have 25 gr/litre. Although that doesn't make sense as I added around 30 gr/ltr and there is definite co2 formation. Confused. Maybe sample isn't representative since it comes from the bottom? Going to have to sleep on that one (it was a corrected refractometer sample. I let it stand for a while to try to get rid of the CO2)

Anyway, my beer line is 8 mm outside, 4 mm inside. I needed the inside to calculate volume that would remain in the line.
I got 3 metres. Should I just chance it and cut in 2 pieces of 1.5? Or 1.25 and 1.75 m for different carbonation levels
It will be a while before I can get any more in
Click to expand...
Na your 3 meters will be perfect for serving one line Zambezi.

We go by Internal diameter because that's the resistance on the beer.
The smaller the ID the more resistance so the less you need.

I've got 4mm I'd EVA barrier line I run for serving I run at 4m lengths i can easily serve a high carbonation beer at that line length.

It's safer to have more line than not.

The EVA barrier line we run in Aus is bloody good stuff Less porous and won't pick up flavours easier to clean less areas for bacteria to harbour.

I've been running my lines for three years unchanged so far no issues.

Don't overthink it hey.
Its more forgiving forced carbonation.

If you wanna take samples I use a jumper lead a bit of line with two liquid disconnects on the end then I use a carbonation cap with a small piece of line to run into a cup.

Look at that what are you drinking post of mine that's how I took that 15psi gravity sample yeah it's a wild pour but I'm not going for pretty i just want a taste and check gravity.

Usually it's one sample to confirm what you usually already know FG;).

Enjoy the learning curve:D
 
Zambezi Special said:
Yeah, I've seen those...
But I don't have them..

Current thinking
Leave the spunding valve on till it moves so I know for sure I have fermentation activity
Then remove and open the bottle for excess CO2 to escape. (i'm not sure if enough can disappear via the spunding valve)
After 1 or 2 days close up everything. Check when bottle is hard (tight) and remove to fridge
Click to expand...
The spunding valve will release excess co2, far more than your cider can produce. No need or reason to remove it.

The PRV is better left as 'last chance to prevent explosion' and not as a spunding valve. As a safety device they prefer you never actually need it. It isn't just marketing.

15 PSI at 38F (3C) is fairly fizzy.
 
Thanks all,
Slowly slowly getting my head around it ;)

So I'm going to keep the close to 3 metre line for 1 picnic tap and will have to order more line for the 2nd one.
I took a sample using this line (beer line on disconnect and picnic tap at the other end) and it poured easily, even at just 5 psi

I think this line is probable similar to what Ben is using as the guys I bought from sell mainly kegland stuff. It's 8 mm outside/4 mm inside eva barrier line.

I tightened the spunding valve a little this morning (to about 10 psi) and there is definitely still active fermentation going on as it reached this in no time.
Brought it back to 5 psi
I was going to remove the spunding valve as I thought that a much higher pressure was required than what this one is rated for (15 psi)
But if not, then it's easy. I'll get the keg to just under 15 psi (I don't want to push it to the limit) and then move it to my fridge.
Is there any problem with having the spunding valve at low temperatures and possible condensation when opening the fridge?
And can I just move the keg in one time from my room temperature to the fridge (32 to 2 oC / 90 to 35 F) or does this have to be done slowly as to not shock the (still active) yeast too much?

I think one of the biggest things with kegging is getting to know all the new names and terms (ball lock post, spunding valve, disconnects etc etc)
 
Zambezi Special said:
Thanks all,
Slowly slowly getting my head around it ;)

So I'm going to keep the close to 3 metre line for 1 picnic tap and will have to order more line for the 2nd one.
I took a sample using this line (beer line on disconnect and picnic tap at the other end) and it poured easily, even at just 5 psi

I think this line is probable similar to what Ben is using as the guys I bought from sell mainly kegland stuff. It's 8 mm outside/4 mm inside eva barrier line.

I tightened the spunding valve a little this morning (to about 10 psi) and there is definitely still active fermentation going on as it reached this in no time.
Brought it back to 5 psi
I was going to remove the spunding valve as I thought that a much higher pressure was required than what this one is rated for (15 psi)
But if not, then it's easy. I'll get the keg to just under 15 psi (I don't want to push it to the limit) and then move it to my fridge.
Is there any problem with having the spunding valve at low temperatures and possible condensation when opening the fridge?
And can I just move the keg in one time from my room temperature to the fridge (32 to 2 oC / 90 to 35 F) or does this have to be done slowly as to not shock the (still active) yeast too much?

I think one of the biggest things with kegging is getting to know all the new names and terms (ball lock post, spunding valve, disconnects etc etc)
Click to expand...
Na them butterfly valves are pretty bullet proof I've had beer come spurting through on transfer many times.

They fully disassemble so you can clean them out sanitize and put back together if that happens:).

Na wack it straight in the fridge no need to bring it down gently that's just internet bull shoit.

Honestly it's alot more forgiving than bottling.
And atleast with them new posts you can put your liquid on the gas post and Visa versa without too much trouble getting it off.
 
Wondering why you would initially set the spending valve to 0.5 PSI? I would just set it at 10 to 12 PSI, and leave it. My beer lines are 3/16"(4.8mm) ID, and about 10 (3 meters) feet long. I still get a bit more foaming than I would like. I will probably make my lines longer next time.
 
5 psi, not 0.5 ;)
And because I got no clue, just seemed like a reasonable idea as I wanted the extra apple juice to ferment.
I wasn't even intending to use the spunding valve. I was going to put an airlock on the keg till fermentation was almost finished. Then a final bit of juice for carbonation.
Then a spunding valve was mentioned and since I bought one, I figured why not use it ;)
But I was scared that putting the pressure too high would inhibit fermentation.
Anyway, keg is in fridge (spunding valve attached and set to 14 psi) and I learned a lot :D
Next up will be the real stuff: beer!
 
Craigerrr said:
Wondering why you would initially set the spending valve to 0.5 PSI? I would just set it at 10 to 12 PSI, and leave it. My beer lines are 3/16"(4.8mm) ID, and about 10 (3 meters) feet long. I still get a bit more foaming than I would like. I will probably make my lines longer next time.
Click to expand...
I changed all my lines to eva barrier lines. All are about 4ft long and zero foaming. I think the nonpermeable property of the lines helped
 
I'm back with a dummie question:
So my cider is now in the fridge & cold & carbonated.
Had a glass and it's real tasty. I think there is some residual sugar as it is not as dry as usual.
Of course, pressure has dropped because of temperature decrease and bacause I poured a glass out of it (2 to be honest).
I was thinking that maybe the yeast would still produce some CO2, but it is probably too cold for that.
So now?
Remove spunding valve as it is on the gas side?
Attach CO2 cylinder and add gas. But how much? I just need it for dispensing, as carbonation is fine.
Bring up to just above 15 psi or so, then disconnect. Pour whenever and top up again at 10 psi?
I can't keep the cylinder attached.

Maybe?
 
I’d take off the spunding valve. If any sugar left you’ll be fine.

I add as needed. I don’t keep my co2 attached.
 
Thanks Josh
Seems like I am slowly getting my head around things ;)
Drinking some red wine now, going to play with the CO2 cylinder tomorrow.
So you go a bit by feel. If it doesn't pour nicely anymore you connect CO2, check pressure and top up?
 
Zambezi Special said:
Thanks Josh
Seems like I am slowly getting my head around things ;)
Drinking some red wine now, going to play with the CO2 cylinder tomorrow.
So you go a bit by feel. If it doesn't pour nicely anymore you connect CO2, check pressure and top up?
Click to expand...
That’s how I roll. I do use the co2/temp chart at the end of fermentation since I spund as well. Once I’m ready to drink I go by feel but try to keep 5-10 psi by topping off when needed.
 
Thanks again!
Yeah, thats how I would like to go about it as well.
Going to try get my hands on a gauge that can handle more than 15 psi, so I can get the right pressure at my high temperatures
 
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