Full volume Mash in Robobrew

Discussion in 'General Brewing Discussions' started by Frankenbrewer, Aug 18, 2020.

  1. Frankenbrewer

    Frankenbrewer Well-Known Member

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    I just got my 35L Brewzilla and I want do not want to sparge. Essentially use it as a BIAB system. Anyone using as such?
     
  2. Craigerrr

    Craigerrr Well-Known Member

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    I have only done one brew so far on my zilla. I would think that you would either have to do a small beer, or a small batch. I think that the max volume for a full volume mash is 7.93 US gallons. Sparking isn't a bad thing though, you know?
     
  3. BOB357

    BOB357 Well-Known Member

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    No reason why not. You'd need to limit your batch size, depending on the size of the grain bill but otherwise, it would work just like BIAB.
     
  4. Mark Farrall

    Mark Farrall Well-Known Member

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    That's what I do. I leave the bottom screen in the malt pipe and all the other screens and the recirculation pipe are removed. Then it's just a bag and a full volume mash. Recirculation has worked fine for all except the really big beers. I suppose I could do without the malt pipe completely, but it makes it easier to get the bag out.

    That said I will 'sparge' the low ABV beers I brew. I'm not really doing it to get the extra sugar, more because the mash just seems too thin. For those, a full volume mash would end up something like 9 litres of water per kg of grain (OG around 1.030). I just mash with around 4 litres per kg and add the rest after the mash is finished. Poured over the grain if I need some more points.

    If I was doing 20 litre/5 gallon batches then I'd probably be sparging the imperial beers as I doubt it'd be big enough to mash those full volume. As I'm only doing a bit over half that volume, they work with full volume and a 90 minute boil (OG 1.100 or under).
     
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  5. Frankenbrewer

    Frankenbrewer Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info guys. Did any of yiu have issues with the valve? I cannot seem to get valve to tighten. I think without a silicone washer on the inside it will probably leak. The nut on the inside is metal on metal. This is not a good seal. What did you guys do to fix this?
     
  6. Craigerrr

    Craigerrr Well-Known Member

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    I had heard about the valve being loose after installed, but I was still surprised at how loose when I installed mine last week.
    At first I used a silicone oring, the one that you use for weldless kettle fittings, it was a really good fit. Before my first brew however, I installed a tee and sight gauge in the valve port. I put a hose barb in the tee, but I think I will see how the BZ ball valve will fit in there.
    I like the angle of the valve, and the removeable swivel fitting.
    20200809_153115[1].jpg 20200813_211005[1].jpg
     
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  7. Mark Farrall

    Mark Farrall Well-Known Member

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    I never used the default tap. Put in something from my previous system for the first brew.
     

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