First taste extremelly bitter....

I just dump my hops in the fermenter and it works great. However, 25 gr hops for 5 liters is a stretch.

My latest IPAs used something like 2-250 gr for 20 liters. They are pungent and real grapefruit bombs. They would not have turned the same with only 100 gr of hops.

Also, I would try to dump the hops in the fermenter. They will soak and most likely settle to the bottom, if not, simply cold crush.
Hi, do you mean that 5g/L is not enough? As im not using a secondary, im not sure if i can get a totally clean beer just by cold crashing.
I will try though to tosse the hops directly and see how it goes.
 
I usually use around 250-300 gr of hops for 20 liters. That's 12.5-15 gr hops hops per liter. I know it is expensive, but it will be worth your while and money.

I have had greast success cold crushing beers with lots of hops. I do not do gelatine, nor do I use finnings in the kettle. Using a high flocculating yeast will also help.

I recently did an IPA which I fermented with the very poor and awful yeast called S-33 from Fermentis. I bottle, so all my beers are boittled and very exposed to O2. But this beer clears nicely when stored 24-48 hours in the fridge prior to drinking. I never thought it will do so, but it did. Granted, I leave the last 20-30 ml of beer in the bottle , but the yeast did an OK job at sedimenting the beer. So I am happy.

I am also, not a fan of super/uber clear beer, as I do not believe this is a defining trade of a beer, so ...Just try to see what fits you and your needs/expectations. Most times, if the beer is awesome, you will not be bothered by the slight haze in the final product.
 
I usually use around 250-300 gr of hops for 20 liters. That's 12.5-15 gr hops hops per liter. I know it is expensive, but it will be worth your while and money.

I have had greast success cold crushing beers with lots of hops. I do not do gelatine, nor do I use finnings in the kettle. Using a high flocculating yeast will also help.

I recently did an IPA which I fermented with the very poor and awful yeast called S-33 from Fermentis. I bottle, so all my beers are boittled and very exposed to O2. But this beer clears nicely when stored 24-48 hours in the fridge prior to drinking. I never thought it will do so, but it did. Granted, I leave the last 20-30 ml of beer in the bottle , but the yeast did an OK job at sedimenting the beer. So I am happy.

I am also, not a fan of super/uber clear beer, as I do not believe this is a defining trade of a beer, so ...Just try to see what fits you and your needs/expectations. Most times, if the beer is awesome, you will not be bothered by the slight haze in the final product.
I dont really care how it Looks like, it has to smell and taste good :)
BTW, i used the S-33 for this beer, but the Sedimentation after cold Crash was similar to Danstar Nothingan Ale.
Will try to toss the hops directly and see how it goes.
thanks
 

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