Fermenting in a keg , oxygen?

[BeerGeekCa]

Hello,

I have a bunch of unused kegs, and considering doing the fermentation in a keg (looks like its easier to handle and clean when compared to buckets).

After closing the keg I run a bit of co2 and then depressurize to purge any oxygen and minimize "contamination"

Is this approach viable for best yeast performance ? Do yeast need oxygen ? Any further suggestions for keg fermentation ?

 

[Minbari]

Hello,

I have a bunch of unused kegs, and considering doing the fermentation in a keg (looks like its easier to handle and clean when compared to buckets).

After closing the keg I run a bit of co2 and then depressurize to purge any oxygen and minimize "contamination"

Is this approach viable for best yeast performance ? Do yeast need oxygen ? Any further suggestions for keg fermentation ?

No need to purge before fermentation. Yeast need oxygen to get going. I use 100% oxygen infused in the wort at pitching time.

You want to avoid oxygen once fermentation is finish

 

[Craigerrr]

Only issue I see with fermenting in a keg (I assume you mean 19 liter corny keg), would be head space.
You may need to keep your batch size to a maximum of 2/3's of the keg size.

 

[GFHomebrew]

I've done it twice recently 17lt I've put in both kegs and no foam over for me luckily.

I see @Sunfire96 Had a bit of a foam over recently doing the same thing.

I'd install a floating dip tube too of you don't plan on transferring off the trub.

@HighVoltageMan! Ferments in a keg as well.

 

[Josh Hughes]

I used to do 4.5 without issues in a 5 gallon keg. Not used a violent yeast that way though.

 

[BeerGeekCa]

No need to purge before fermentation. Yeast need oxygen to get going. I use 100% oxygen infused in the wort at pitching time.

You want to avoid oxygen once fermentation is finish

What does "100% oxygen infused in the wort at pitching time" mean

 

[GFHomebrew]

What does "100% oxygen infused in the wort at pitching time" mean

Oxygenate as best you can at pitching scratch that if your using dry yeast as it's already got adequate sterol reserves to get the job done (prepped ready for action).


As minibari said O2 at pitch is critical to yeast replication.

O2 at packaging is detrimental to shelf life of beer.
Do all things necessary to avoid it.

Be it closed transfers or well if fermenting in a keg just spunding the end of fermentation and then putting it in the fridge and serving directly from the keg win win.

 

[Minbari]

What does "100% oxygen infused in the wort at pitching time" mean

Means I have this and a 5 micron stone. 60 seconds of pure oxygen goes into the wort before yeast pitch. Most batches are actively fermenting within 24-36 hours.

 

[Sunfire96]

I've done it twice recently 17lt I've put in both kegs and no foam over for me luckily.

I see @Sunfire96 Had a bit of a foam over recently doing the same thing.

I'd install a floating dip tube too of you don't plan on transferring off the trub.

@HighVoltageMan! Ferments in a keg as well.

I've probably done at least 30 batches fermented in a keg, and only one has overflowed during high krausen

 

[Donoroto]

Means I have this and a 5 micron stone. 60 seconds of pure oxygen goes into the wort before yeast pitch. Most batches are actively fermenting within 24-36 hours. View attachment 27463

I do the same, except for dry yeast. It is not harmful with dry yeast, but not needed.

An alternative is vigorous splashing.

Liquid yeast requires oxygen.

 

[HighVoltageMan!]

Kegs make an awesome fermenter. The thing about the corny's is that they should be pressurized slightly to insure the vessel is sealed. I use 7.5 gallon Sanke kegs and would never go back to glass carboys. Here are some of the points I picked up over the years fermenting in kegs:

1. Stainless steel doesn't break, nor does it absorb flavors and is a perfect barrier against oxygen ingress. You can add hot liquids to them with little trouble.

2. Depending on your yeast strain, you may need to leave a lot of head room, or you can fill it nearly full with no "puking". Lager strains have very tame krausen, with 34/70 you can fill nearly to the top without much trouble, WLP007 is also tame. 1318 or S04 are both top cropping yeast and have an aggressive krausen during fermentation and you will need a lot of head space in the fermenter. Likewise Kolsch yeasts are big krausen yeast.
US05 is medium krausen, but still needs some head space.

3. You can pressurize them. You can pressure ferment, spund and do pressurized transfers easily. Transferring may require co2, but once you have that, brewing becomes much easier and enjoyable.

4. With a floating pickup, you can ferment, carb, condition and serve in one vessel. When I make a pale ale, I will serve from the fermenter. I don't move it to avoid stirring up gunk from the bottom. I transfer lagers off the yeast into another keg after the beer becomes relatively clear.

Here is a common spunding valve that allows for you to adjust the pressure in the keg during fermentation:

https://www.morebeer.com/products/b...TYKNF5q-OCyvzi9GZiVt8RdCcnFuuQ98aAu5MEALw_wcB

Here is a floating pick up tube you can use instead of the corny pick up tube. This will allow you to draw beer off the top of the keg where the beer is clearer:

https://www.morebeer.com/products/floating-dip-tube-2.html

Good luck and happy brewing!

 

[BeerGeekCa]

thank you all !!!