Fermenter's Favorite Cooler/Mash Tun Testing

I don't use a hot liquor tank I use a boil kettle and I use the thermos as my mash tun I have a rims system setup similar to The blichmann Brew easy I have the blichmann temperature controller
 
My kettle is my mash tun all rolled into one. Nowhere near as bling as yours crunk but heck its the beer that counts eh?
 
That is correct sir, the brewery is simply a tool suited to each brewer.
 
My temp controlled frig in the shed
Our wish list is for a glass door fridge with a conical fermenter as well. Waiting to see what the redesigned Spike Brewing Conical is going to look like and feature.
 
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I stumbled across an Aussie version of Crunks conical fermentor here on www.kegking.com.au it's called the Fermentasaurus. I would buy this in a second IF it fit in my chest freezer:oops: but in the future if brother ever asked for his kegerator back I'd convert the freezer into a keezer and buy a fridge that would fit the meter high conical fermentor. That thing is the bomb it's got a pressure kit where you can ferment under pressure and carbonate your brew all in the one unit!! What:eek: yep awesome. Anyhow I'll stop me rave and post a pick.
 
I clean my carboys with a 24 hour soak in 1 step. Wondering if you can do the same with PET?
 
Their use of clear plastic as opposed to amber presents a problem: Skunking. Otherwise, looks like a nice setup!
 
No different to pet carboys there Nosey. Plus were used to the opaque fermentors over here I'm glad they designed something that you can see fermentation going on. Plus helps when clearingthe trub out the bottom when clearing/conditioning in conical so you can see what's going on. It's dark in a refrigerator. Yes I do see what your putting down if someone did ferment in a sunlit garage they would have some skunk brew on their hands;).
 
The fast fermentors show the trub and yeast cake pretty clearly.even without light
 
The fast fermentors show the trub and yeast cake pretty clearly.even without light
Can you pressurise them fastfermentors crunk this fermentasarus looks like it's twin.

I love the fact you can carbonate and condition your beer in them.
 
Not sure have not tried I will do some research and get back to you on that
 
Not sure have not tried I will do some research and get back to you on that
That fermentasarus fermentor you can get a pressure lid which has two disconnect nipples just like on keg also a floating dip tube so when racking you always draw from the top of the fermentor and there for the clearest wort. Here in Aus there going for 125$ soo tempted to get one. Even adding hops you can use the bulb at the bottom to add hops by first purging hops of o2 then opening the butterfly valve at the bottom and the hops slowly float to the top of the fermentor through the bottom without introducing any oxygen or taking off the lid.
 
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I would be willing to bet I could customize a fast fermentor I'm sure It could handle 10lb of pressure
 
So back to my original post for a minute or two... as I want to complete my testing of grain thermal mass vs water thermal mass and do saturated grains hold temps better over a mash session than water, and my "introduction thread" about what I should brew next. What type of beer would be more foregiving of a temperature drop off over let's say an hour vs other types of beers that aren't so foregiving with temp falloff. And am I correct in the "general" thinking that if I aim for a target Mash temp of 156 and drift downwards, I would yield more fermentables and hence higher ABV. As spring is here, seasonally considerations should apply.
 
Sorry, didn't intend on hijacking the topic. If you know your temperature drop off, you can adjust by mashing for instance 158 and if you drop 4 degrees, your only 2 degrees below your target of 156. Happy medium shouldn't cause any issues.
 
Sorry, didn't intend on hijacking the topic. If you know your temperature drop off, you can adjust by mashing for instance 158 and if you drop 4 degrees, your only 2 degrees below your target of 156. Happy medium shouldn't cause any issues.

Hijacking is always fine in my book. I enjoy the digressions and banter.

That's the whole thing... I am not sure of the temperature drop off (yet), but am liking the safety valve approach of accommodating the swing.

From what I've read online, the majority of starch conversion happens really in the first 10 minutes or so. So if I start at 158 and drift to say 156 in 30 minutes, will that be that big of a deal if the target was 156, but of the majority of the conversion happens in the first 10 minutes, will the 2 degrees +/- have that much of an effect?
 
That I can not answer with 100% confidence but I would be 99% sure you would be fine and if conversion is in the first ten minutes, and you loose 2 ° per 30 minutes go to 157° then you would only be 3° below target at the end of an hour, if conversion happens in 10 minutes you should be at 156.5° at 7.5 minutes, that would be inside of the crucial conversion time of 10 minutes, please keep in mind, I have NOT tested this theory I am speaking theoretically only.
 
Makes sense to me Crunk.

That conversion in the first 10 minutes is what has me worried (noob worries), as part of the test of the equipment (and me) is to have confidence in strike water temps so that I don't under or over shoot too much my mash temps and by the time I can add enough cold or hot water into the mash and equalized, my 10 minutes will be up.

Maybe I should just have a beer and relax

Update: The wife and I are running errands and she suggested stopping at Tractor Supply and getting 15 lb of grains. So the test will be finished today and will post the results later this afternoon or this evening.
 
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