Electric All in ones

[thunderwagn]

My understanding is the Brewzilla and Digiboil are the same basic systems. The differences are that the Digiboil doesn't have a built in pump or a programable controller. If this is the case, you'll need a bag if you go for a fine crush. I have my mill set at .042. Any finer and I can't recirculate without problems. Any coarser and my efficiency takes a dive. I used a piece of an old brew bag stretched over the malt pipe bottom screen at first, and a BIAB like crush. No way I could recirculate with that method.

Yep. Failed to mention the pump being able to keep up with a decent circulation if the crush is to fine. It is a bit of a balancing act to find that sweet spot the 1st few times.

 

[Over The Cliff Brewing]

Thanks guys for the info. Maybe the first time using it I'll not go with a fine crush just to see how everything works. Then play around with the fine crush and inserting a bag and who knows what else. I'm just eager to see how it works (once I get it).

 

[Hawkbox]

When I played with the brewzilla for a couple batches I definitely had sparge issues using my MIAB mill settings. If I had stuck with it I would likely have gone with a bag in it as well. Could probably remove that little pipe in the middle if I was using a bag too.

 

[Mark Farrall]

Is it necessary to use a BIAB bag in the Brewzilla? I am going to recrush the grain I have before I mash. Is the screen in the malt pipe fine enough to hold back the fine crush?

Basically what thunderwagn and Bob said.

I did the first three batches with the screens and no bag. Nearly all the brews you'll see on the youtubes won't use a bag. As I'm from BIAB I just couldn't see the point of stuffing around with crush size and rice hulls and filtering out the small amount of grain that inevitably escapes, so I just started using a bag. Much less hassle. I've only had a problem with recirculation when it's packed with grains (I was aiming for an OG of 1.09).

If you do go with the screens (or even with a bag) make sure you pull the hose out of the mash before turning off the pump. Turning it off sucks back 50 - 100 ml of wort and grains and sends the grains down into the false bottom.

 

[Craigerrr]

My first brew day on the new BZ35 is slated for Saturday, can't wait to wake up to strike water that is ready to strike! I had become fond of mashing in a bag in my 3 vessel keggle , and have already pulled out my old BIAB bag, it fits perfectly. This batch already calls for rice hulls, but I foresee making rice hulls a staple in all brews. Why fight with it?

 

[Head First]

If you do go with the screens (or even with a bag) make sure you pull the hose out of the mash before turning off the pump. Turning it off sucks back 50 - 100 ml of wort and grains and sends the grains down into the false bottom.

This is a great tip. Thanks I would have found this out in the same manner as you , from experience

 

[Over The Cliff Brewing]

Basically what thunderwagn and Bob said.

I did the first three batches with the screens and no bag. Nearly all the brews you'll see on the youtubes won't use a bag. As I'm from BIAB I just couldn't see the point of stuffing around with crush size and rice hulls and filtering out the small amount of grain that inevitably escapes, so I just started using a bag. Much less hassle. I've only had a problem with recirculation when it's packed with grains (I was aiming for an OG of 1.09).

If you do go with the screens (or even with a bag) make sure you pull the hose out of the mash before turning off the pump. Turning it off sucks back 50 - 100 ml of wort and grains and sends the grains down into the false bottom.

Great advice.

 

[Pricelessbrewing]

The all in one systems, eBIAB systems etc. Whatever you call them, they're included and have been released this morning. If there's a system you'd like to see added, or have a question/concern/issue with any of the specifications let me know so I can followup and investigate. Unfortunately many of the equipment specifications are not provided by the manufacturer so community information has been used for much of them.

 

[Hetken1]

OK...You guys now have my interest increasing. Since I brew smaller batches on the stove.......I could potentially brew my normal 5 gal batches in the kitchen as well (story to tell the wife) Now, which ones are you guys using, why and what other equipment is needed with an all in one? I know some come with pumps and some don't but I want to get you experts out here to run it down for me. If I can avoid brewing in the garage during the New England winters I will be very happy!

I bought the Anvil 10.5 and use it on 220V
Only used it twice so far but really like it. The "dead space" or room below the grain basket is one gallon .

I too purchased the Foundry/Advil. Hooked up 220v and it is amazing. Been home brewing since 1987. Good bytes old way and propane

 

[BOB357]

The all in one systems, eBIAB systems etc. Whatever you call them, they're included and have been released this morning. If there's a system you'd like to see added, or have a question/concern/issue with any of the specifications let me know so I can followup and investigate. Unfortunately many of the equipment specifications are not provided by the manufacturer so community information has been used for much of them.

Great job. Tried out the Digiboil 35L profile yesterday and it was spot on.

 

[Over The Cliff Brewing]

The all in one systems, eBIAB systems etc. Whatever you call them, they're included and have been released this morning. If there's a system you'd like to see added, or have a question/concern/issue with any of the specifications let me know so I can followup and investigate. Unfortunately many of the equipment specifications are not provided by the manufacturer so community information has been used for much of them.

Thanks! This is what the doctor ordered!

 

[thunderwagn]

Great job. Tried out the Digiboil 35L profile yesterday and it was spot on.

Good to hear that BF is catching on and getting these profiles up. Sometimes they still need a little tweaking and fine tuning, but for the most part they're a very good starting point.

 

[Lairtos]

I use the 35l klarstein brauheld pro all in 1 system. I looked around for ages for a good all in 1 but the prices seemed very high in most cases, then i stumbled across this little gem on amazon and haven't looked back since. Integrated 2500w heating element, pump/recirculation system, temp probe and you can either keep it in manual mode or pre program all the steps of your brew and just let it do most of the work for you. I also use an immersion cooler and hop basket, then everything goes into the kegzilla under between 10-20 psi.

Do you have the profile for that equipment. I just purchased the 30L one and since I'm a noob that would help me using the recipes

 

[Head First]

The all in one systems, eBIAB systems etc. Whatever you call them, they're included and have been released this morning. If there's a system you'd like to see added, or have a question/concern/issue with any of the specifications let me know so I can followup and investigate. Unfortunately many of the equipment specifications are not provided by the manufacturer so community information has been used for much of them.

Just thought I would add a note. Don't forget about the space on the sides of the mash pipe. In the digiboil 65l the pipe radius is approx an inch smaller than the kettle radius. This is enough volume to affect mash thickness also. However it is not a fixed number as the space below the pipe is. Batch size will cause this to vary. At 1.25/1 mash thickness and 1.045 Preboil Gravity at 70% efficiency it is more than 2 litres. Enough to change mash thickness a bit. In the 5gal units this would be a much smaller space. The preboil volume shouldn't be affected much but mash will be slightly thicker.

 

[Pricelessbrewing]

Just thought I would add a note. Don't forget about the space on the sides of the mash pipe. In the digiboil 65l the pipe radius is approx an inch smaller than the kettle radius. This is enough volume to affect mash thickness also. However it is not a fixed number as the space below the pipe is. Batch size will cause this to vary. At 1.25/1 mash thickness and 1.045 Preboil Gravity at 70% efficiency it is more than 2 litres. Enough to change mash thickness a bit. In the 5gal units this would be a much smaller space. The preboil volume shouldn't be affected much but mash will be slightly thicker.

Good point! Unfortunately I don't own all of these systems myself and have to rely on manufacturer or community values, but if anyone cares to measure carefully and ping me on any measurements they have I can update the systems profiles. I don't think it's worth worrying about at this time, but it's worth keeping in mind.

 

[Head First]

Good point! Unfortunately I don't own all of these systems myself and have to rely on manufacturer or community values, but if anyone cares to measure carefully and ping me on any measurements they have I can update the systems profiles. I don't think it's worth worrying about at this time, but it's worth keeping in mind.

I will try to run some numbers this week for my Digiboils. I have both kettles but am involved in some other projects that are consuming my time. I calculated volumes but didn't write it down, darn google calculators.

 

[BOB357]

I'd imagine it could make a noticeable difference in a particularly thick mash but, other than that, I don't see it as being problematic in the 35 liter model. Sure wouldn't hurt to have it included in the recoverable dead space volume though.

 

[Head First]

I'd imagine it could make a noticeable difference in a particularly thick mash but, other than that, I don't see it as being problematic in the 35 liter model. Sure wouldn't hurt to have it included in the recoverable dead space volume though.

It isn't used as part of dead space but is actually part of mash in volume so is just giving you a false mash thickness reading. Ran some #s this morning and digiboil 65L max volume in kettle from bottom of mash pipe to side overflow holes is 44.11 L. Volume inside mash pipe to overflow holes is 34.64 L. So space between pipe and kettle is approx 9.5 L. A substantial space.

In the 35L kettle same measurements are kettle 24.7L and pipe is 19.3L a space of approx. 5.4L.
These #s are significant as far as mash thickness but as I was saying it would vary according to batch size or grain bill.
Here are my chicken scratches.

I have been just adding water from sparge water kettle until it thins enough to mash. I have no idea how this could be addressed with the recipe builder. Just wanted other brewers to realize what they are working with.

 

[BOB357]

I have no idea how this could be addressed with the recipe builder.

In using my Digiboil with the mash kit for about 1 1/2 years now, I've done a lot of trying different things to get decent efficiency and consistency. A couple of things I've discovered that will, hopefully, help simplify your thought process:

The recoverable dead space, both under the malt pipe and around the parameter, only need to be part of the equations for calculating the strike water total and strike water temperature. If you recirculate during the mash the total strike water volume, including all dead space volume, becomes the water number in your water/grain ratio, virtually making the ratio moot. Once you begin recirculating, all of the water comes into contact with the grains.

After you factor in the dead space under the malt pipe, you need to find a water to grain ratio that allows you to recirculate at a reasonable rate, without using more water than needed. Some trial and error is needed here. Once you've found your sweet spot, the ratio is used only as a reference. (I need "x" water volume plus "y" qts/lb. of grain, x being the dead space under the malt pipe) Forget the parameter dead space it increases at the same rate regardless of the amount of grain you're applying the water/grain ratio to.

If you don't recirculate, the dead space is good insulation, but has little affect on the water/grain ratio, because any contact with the grain will be negligible. Your only concern here is mash thickness, and the same (I need "x" water volume plus "y" qts/lb. of grain) applies.

This negates the need to enter the parameter dead space into your equipment profile(s) and gives you a fixed water/grain ratio to use.
Hope this helps.

Hope this helps

 

[Head First]

In a nutshell what you describe is what I am doing. I use the calculator to guess mash water with 4gal. Space under pipe then have sparge water at strike temp to adjust mash to a recirculatable soup.
A big beer is coming up for me, and I plan on just omitting the pipe and doing a BIAB with recirculation.
The point I would like to make is the manufacturers made these all in 1's in general and without much fore thought. Do they work well? Yes pretty much. Could they be excellently well designed with a little effort before hitting the market? IMO yes.
Glad I bought 2 of different sizes too. Will enjoy brewing with them. I guess I just can't get past the idea of making a "better mousetrap ."