Electric All In One Died - What's Next?

[Donoroto]

Thanks for the reply. I think Hancock (purchased on Amazon) was about $275 and I would say it is on par with Vevor looking at them on Amazon. Is an Anvil Foundry really going to be that much better? My Hancock only held up for about a dozen brewing sessions over six months. Any other options folks would recommend outside the electrics? I would like to see what folks are recommending before I dive it... Chip

Thanks for the reply. I think Hancock (purchased on Amazon) was about $275 and I would say it is on par with Vevor looking at them on Amazon. Is an Anvil Foundry really going to be that much better? My Hancock only held up for about a dozen brewing sessions over six months. Any other options folks would recommend outside the electrics? I would like to see what folks are recommending before I dive it... Chip

To indirectly answer your Anvil question: You can try calling Hancock and asking about getting some help, or spare parts, or a schematic. Soldered fuses are replaceable, but you need to use solder. Check them for continuity.

Then give Anvil (or Grainfather or Brewzilla or…) and ask for the same thing… not only will they answer the phone, they will be eager to help.

Sure, they cost double. But it is not because they are overcharging.

 

[Chip99]

I have a mash and a boil and like it. I am two years in and 27 batches with not sign of slowing down. My complaints are slow heating it is the same with all 110 in all one units. You can go to a 220 unit with other options, but that requires some electric work. If 220 is possible for you that would be a good upgrade. My complaints are the grain basket volume is a little low. 10 -12 lbs it good. in the 13- 14 you lose efficency, and over 14lb starts to get harder. I think the max I have done on my unit is 17 or 18lbs, but the mash was thick, and hard to work with. The last issue is the kettle is only 8 gal. I like to end with 5+ in the keg. If I assume 5 in keg, that is 5.5 in fermenter, 6 post boil, and 6.75 pre boil. Add a little for the 5+ and have to watch pretty close to for boil overs. If I was going to buy a new all in one unit I would opt for the BrewZilla. Have not used, but what I know for a couple extra dollars you get more features, larger kettle, and more grain capacity, and you can get 220 for the same price as 110. If you are willing to spend more you can look at clawhammer, Sike solo, or Unibrau. This cost more, but you don’t have to worry about one item going out, and then the system being dead. They have replaceable parts. Keep in mind the 220 version of the BrewZilla has lower watts then the 220 version for Clawhammer, Spike, or Unibrua. I think you would be happy with any of these. As for the Grainfather, from what I know it is comparable to the BrewZilla at a higher price. I think the 110 clawhammer at the same price would be a better option, but if you look around you will find many happy Grainfather owners.

Thanks for the response. In the end I opted to go gas not electric. I have about 1,000 of LP gas in various sized tanks on my property. And burners to match. I bought an Anvil 10 gallon pot with thermometer and ball valve. I also got an igloo 10 gallon to use for mash. My mash bucket with false bottom will fit inside the igloo so I will use a pulley system or something to hold it up for sparge. I don't like things going out on me (like any electric component you can name) that I can't address immediately. Yes it will take some experimentation for my mash cycle but the boil cycle will be so much faster with LP than an electric kettle. Nothing changes on my heat exchange setup for cooling or any of my fermentation vessels. they say the 10 gallon igloos hold the mash temp pretty constant. I'll just need to make sure of getting the strike water temp right... Chip

 

[Chip99]

Would love to hear from folks using brew kettles and mash tuns without temp control. I bought an Anvil brew kettle and igloo water cooler for mash (both 10 gallons). This will be a small adjustment for me and short learning curve. I have a gas stove and outside gas burners and plenty sources of LP. Would love to hear experiences from those using similar systems... Chip

 

[Craigerrr]

I am pretty happy with my Brewzilla 35L 3.1 after 42 brews. It has its drawbacks and limitations, and isn't top of the line or considered "premium quality". Mine is 110V, at the time their 220V model wasn't available in the land of Hockey, Maple Syrup, and Neil Young. If I were to buy a new one now I would probably get the larger 65L size so I could do full volume mashes, and have plenty of room for higher gravity brews.

 

[Zambi]

Would love to hear from folks using brew kettles and mash tuns without temp control. I bought an Anvil brew kettle and igloo water cooler for mash (both 10 gallons). This will be a small adjustment for me and short learning curve. I have a gas stove and outside gas burners and plenty sources of LP. Would love to hear experiences from those using similar systems... Chip

I don't use temp control for the mash, but I think my little 10 litre (max) system is too small to compare with yours.
For instance: I put the whole pot with grains inside my igloo cooler for the mash

 

[BarbarianBrewer]

Would love to hear from folks using brew kettles and mash tuns without temp control. I bought an Anvil brew kettle and igloo water cooler for mash (both 10 gallons). This will be a small adjustment for me and short learning curve. I have a gas stove and outside gas burners and plenty sources of LP. Would love to hear experiences from those using similar systems... Chip

My system is similar to your new setup. I have a 13 gallon Coleman cooler and a 10 gal Spike kettle. Hitting mash temp can be tricky. You need to overshoot the mash calculator's recommended strike water temperature because the cooler itself will absorb some of the heat. What I do now is to use my fermenter heat wrap to preheat the mash tun while the strike water is heating. I also leave about a gallon of strike water in the kettle when I dough in. I intentionally target an initial mash temp a couple degrees below target mash temp. Once I see where the mash temp wound up, I know (guess) how hot the remaining strike water should be. I also have a DIY bazooka screen to aid in lautering.

 

[BarbarianBrewer]

Pre boil SG, whatever that is called. I thought FG was post fermentation?

You are correct FG is post fermentation. OG is post-boil/pre-fermentation. I'm not sure whether pre-boil gravity has an acronym, so I just call it pre-boil gravity.

 

[Brewer #425155]

Got my system (Hancock Brewing) on Amazon October 2024. After a dozen or so brews I thought I really had this system figured out. Hitting SG's all the time. Efficiency WAY up. Died on me today near the end of a boil which I was able to salvage. There are no reset buttons. Took the plate off the bottom and the fuses are soldered in. No way to replace.

Question, should I go to another all in one electric or opt for something else? I am very confident in the brewing process now. If this thing hadn't died on me I would continue using it as I brew 5 gallon batches about once every 2 to 3 weeks. I have great LP burners and other ways to do things so doesn't have to be electric or all in one. I just want something that will "keep on ticking". Any comments greatly appreciated... Chip

I have a Grainfather 40, 220V, works well, great brew day software manages everything for you, so you follow script. I would recommend the Grainfather.

 

[Eeyore]

I've been using a previous generation Robobrew/Brewzilla(110v) for years. Although I don't brew as much as you. Takes me a while to get through 5 gal of beer one day a week. I've never had a problem. When the day comes to replace it. I'll probably go with the 220v version. 110v works fine. But. It does take a while to raise temp for step mash and boiling.

 

[GrayMax]

I purchased a Grainfather G30 to switch from extract to all-grain brewing. My unit is an older model with the reset button on the bottom—not very practical, but I have never needed to use it, fortunately. The newer G30s have the switch on the side.

I think Grainfather is about in the middle of the price range for all-in-one units.

I love my Grainfather. My first three batches won second, first, and second place finishes in small but AHA-sanctioned contests with pro brewer and BJCP judges.

One of the previous commenters mentioned simplicity. Amen! I also like that the heating element is internal. That makes cleaning easier. Of course, if the element conks out, that would be a problem but I have had smooth sailing so far.

I recently bought the G40 because we moved from an apartment to a house with a large basement, much of which I will be using for homebrewing once I get everything set up.

I encourage you to consider Grainfather. I have been pleased so far!

 

[CidermanX]

Got my system (Hancock Brewing) on Amazon October 2024. After a dozen or so brews I thought I really had this system figured out. Hitting SG's all the time. Efficiency WAY up. Died on me today near the end of a boil which I was able to salvage. There are no reset buttons. Took the plate off the bottom and the fuses are soldered in. No way to replace.

Question, should I go to another all in one electric or opt for something else? I am very confident in the brewing process now. If this thing hadn't died on me I would continue using it as I brew 5 gallon batches about once every 2 to 3 weeks. I have great LP burners and other ways to do things so doesn't have to be electric or all in one. I just want something that will "keep on ticking". Any comments greatly appreciated... Chip

If you want the best quality, look at Speidel Braumeisters.

 

[Timothy]

Got my system (Hancock Brewing) on Amazon October 2024. After a dozen or so brews I thought I really had this system figured out. Hitting SG's all the time. Efficiency WAY up. Died on me today near the end of a boil which I was able to salvage. There are no reset buttons. Took the plate off the bottom and the fuses are soldered in. No way to replace.

Question, should I go to another all in one electric or opt for something else? I am very confident in the brewing process now. If this thing hadn't died on me I would continue using it as I brew 5 gallon batches about once every 2 to 3 weeks. I have great LP burners and other ways to do things so doesn't have to be electric or all in one. I just want something that will "keep on ticking". Any comments greatly appreciated... Chip

brewzilla or Grainfather or the Cadillac..... Braumeister.... I am using the same one a 50L I bought in 2011.... pricy but good

 

[MickOS]

Got my system (Hancock Brewing) on Amazon October 2024. After a dozen or so brews I thought I really had this system figured out. Hitting SG's all the time. Efficiency WAY up. Died on me today near the end of a boil which I was able to salvage. There are no reset buttons. Took the plate off the bottom and the fuses are soldered in. No way to replace.

Question, should I go to another all in one electric or opt for something else? I am very confident in the brewing process now. If this thing hadn't died on me I would continue using it as I brew 5 gallon batches about once every 2 to 3 weeks. I have great LP burners and other ways to do things so doesn't have to be electric or all in one. I just want something that will "keep on ticking". Any comments greatly appreciated... Chip

Isn’t it under warranty? Ask to get it replaced. Less than 12 months old. I’d stick with an all in one. The Grainfather is great! Look for a decent one second hand to save some $ if not replacing your other one under warranty.

 

[Sechelter]

What does everyone here think of the Grainfather? Good unit? Worth the extra price?

What does everyone here think of the Grainfather? Good unit? Worth the extra price?

I’m joining the conversation late, but …
I bought my GF in 2015 and am 43 beers in on it. It’s not perfect: the display is hard to read in bright light (outdoors), it’s 110 V (wish I’d bought the 220 V). Like any recirculating system, your ability to manage the grain temp is 100% dependent on your ability to circulate thru it at a decent rate, which isn’t always possible (esp with oats, wheat, and rye). But it does what it does very well. No problems (yet?).
I got an insulated wrap to put around it, to help with temperature control. I also use a fine mesh at the outflow of the recirculating line, as some grain particles will pass the grain basket during the mash-in and early circulation.
I’ve often thought that a cooler-type tun, with the ability to recirculate thru a heat exchanger in a partially filled all-in-one, would be the dream set-up. Would be less dependent on circulation and would enable easy decoction mashes, which I also enjoy.
Maybe a project for future me …
Have you pulled the trigger on a new unit?

 

[WesBrew]

Take a look at the Spike Solo. Excellent quality on my fermenter and we did a group brew on someone's 10g Solo and it was equally nice.