Dunkelweizen

Sandy Feet

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I'm have been playing around online if I decide to brew one. Much of what I am seeing uses a bunch of Dark Munich or an absolute shitload of Munich I. I assume I can bring up some efficiency with the wheat by adding some rice hulls to the bag. I am concerned that a high dose of the darker malts or an enormous amount of Munich I along with the wheat won't ferment very well. Do any of y'all have an idea of how I can get a somewhat fermentable wort and still be close to style?
Sometimes thing can be frustrating, but learning new shit and how to brew with wheat is good.
 
not sure why you think wheat doesn't ferment well
you need to use at least 50% wheat then your dark munich
caramunich and carafa special
step mash at least
 
Hulls help with wort flow, but are not as necessary with BIAB. The goal is to (be able to) circulate the wort and grain just a bit to even out the wort concentrations: pure water can take on more sugars than wort, so moving the water around a little helps. A stir, a lift & dunk, or recirculation can all help. Fine grist helps too.
 
@Sandy Feet post your recipe build
I haven't built one yet. I am looking for ideas of replacing some of the Munich with Pils, Vienna, or both and still be to style. I want single infusion. I do not want to step mash. This is why I am possibly looking to make something darker. Going dark should give the ability to put some character in it without a complicated mash. I am hoping to be able to go dark with a fermentable wort and be done by lunchtime.
I can probably figure something out, but I just want to know if someone has some experience with the idea of using a little less Munich.
I know the Wheat is around 50%. I also know there are some specialty malts, and they vary quite a bit. Most of what I have seen is either Munich I or Munich II for the remainder. I want to use a little something that might be somewhat more fermentable like a Pils or a Vienna.
I know I can mash lower too. The videos I have seen are going 154. I know I can go 149ish if I need to.
I made a Dubbel some time ago that came out very good. I could combine a little of that grain bill if I needed.
 
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you can certainly use pilsner malt and Vienna and stay in style
I've done 50% wheat then Munich II and pilsner split maybe 8% special B
Mash at least 155
you know a dunkel is not a high ABV beer like a Wiezenbock
 
Hulls help with wort flow, but are not as necessary with BIAB. The goal is to (be able to) circulate the wort and grain just a bit to even out the wort concentrations: pure water can take on more sugars than wort, so moving the water around a little helps. A stir, a lift & dunk, or recirculation can all help. Fine grist helps too.
Depends on weather you fly sparge. Rice hulls have been used by me for years, they are life savers
 
I'm have been playing around online if I decide to brew one. Much of what I am seeing uses a bunch of Dark Munich or an absolute shitload of Munich I. I assume I can bring up some efficiency with the wheat by adding some rice hulls to the bag. I am concerned that a high dose of the darker malts or an enormous amount of Munich I along with the wheat won't ferment very well. Do any of y'all have an idea of how I can get a somewhat fermentable wort and still be close to style?
Sometimes thing can be frustrating, but learning new shit and how to brew with wheat is good.
I have a wheat beer that is 90% white wheat and 10% cara10. It ferments just fine. Wheat has much lower diastatic power, but it isn't zero. ;)
 
Wheat and Munich malts ferment just fine. Munich maybe not pilsner type fermentation but I’ve never had an issue.

When I made one, been a while as I do not like the flavor from that type of yeast.

47% Munich II
47% wheat
3% caramunich
3% carafa II

18 ish IBU Hallertau at start of boil.

https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1162727/dunkelweizen
 
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If I was making it again I’d split the Munich between 1 and 2. Or drop caramunich
 
Thanks y'all. Definitely food for thought. I may come up with a concoction that is kind of a mix. I may even try a Dubbel grain bill with the 300 yeast. That might be an interesting experiment.
 
With the wheat, my issues weren't getting the diastatic power. It was with the conversation in the mash. My OG sucked.
I thought I really fucked it up, but as I am drinking the Hefe, I got what I wanted with the clove balance. I just wish I got something a little stronger. This could be a Bob Ross happy mistake as I did learn something about the conversation and this is a yard beer as far as being sessionable.
 
With the wheat, my issues weren't getting the diastatic power. It was with the conversation in the mash. My OG sucked.
I thought I really fucked it up, but as I am drinking the Hefe, I got what I wanted with the clove balance. I just wish I got something a little stronger. This could be a Bob Ross happy mistake as I did learn something about the conversation and this is a yard beer as far as being sessionable.
One leads to the other
 
Yup. We all have to know what the quirks are of our systems. I do have weird issues converting adjunct and sometimes Munich with how I brew. Since I never used that much wheat, I did not know what would happen. Sometimes, it is trial and error.
 
I haven't with the exception of the darker beers that use more grain. I start with a straight 8 gallons of spring water with whatever recipe, and I end up with 5-5.5 in the fermenter.
1778457697118.png

I was going to use this as a starting point for a discussion for what I want and see if y'all had any suggestions.
I'm waiting for Big Bre to give me a bunch of shit about the complicated recipe, but I actually started with some of my Dubbel recipe and substituted wheat for the Otter and most of the Pilsner.
I think a Dubbelish beer might be nice with this yeast because that yeast is kind of Belgian in a way. Also, the newer White Labs Pure Pitch is about a double pitch, thus the 2 pkgs of yeast. I stopped short of using the dark candi syrup that I had in the Dubbel.
With all the shit that doesn't convert well, I am tempted to mash lower like a Belgian.
 
I haven't with the exception of the darker beers that use more grain. I start with a straight 8 gallons of spring water with whatever recipe, and I end up with 5-5.5 in the fermenter.
View attachment 34684
I was going to use this as a starting point for a discussion for what I want and see if y'all had any suggestions.
I'm waiting for Big Bre to give me a bunch of shit about the complicated recipe, but I actually started with some of my Dubbel recipe and substituted wheat for the Otter and most of the Pilsner.
I think a Dubbelish beer might be nice with this yeast because that yeast is kind of Belgian in a way. Also, the newer White Labs Pure Pitch is about a double pitch, thus the 2 pkgs of yeast. I stopped short of using the dark candi syrup that I had in the Dubbel.
With all the shit that doesn't convert well, I am tempted to mash lower like a Belgian.
that's a lot of grain
what's your calculated OG and ABV
 
The efficiency is set very low. I did that from the results of the Hefe.
1.056 and1.015. If I get better conversion, the gravity will obviously be higher.
Not a horrible amount of grain for BIAB.
 
14.5lbs of grain ?
Your conversion % is low
I do BIAB and get 80% or more
I plugged that in my recipe build and got.074
 
It is 13.25 with plenty of stuff that doesn't convert well. If I were using all Pils, that would be high.
I know the conversion % is low. That is why I programmed the recipe the way I did. The wheat did not like me, so I set the efficiency quite low. It is trial and error and I try to do what works
I ain't getting 80%. I learned that a long time ago, so I deal with it.
It is a hobby. I'm not going to get myself in a frenzy trying to save $3 on grain when time can be better spent at an actual brewery after the brewing is done.
I'm not concerned with the amount of grain. My question concerns the combination of the grain.
 

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