cider press

Minbari

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I made this quite a while ago to press the grains after my BIAB mash is finished. Gets the last bit of sugery goodness out with out burning myself.

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This is why you don't use zinc coated steel. Completely stripped out.

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Replaced with a grade 8 5/8"-11 hardened steel bolt. :D

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I do like a bit of creativity :)
 
I do like a bit of creativity :)
It works really well. Once pressed, just pick up the assembly and pour into kettle. Prolly 1/2 gallon more
 
Do you hand-crank it, or is it powered by a drill or motor?

I like the concept, and it really puts to rest that old "don't squeeze the bag" myth.
I use a drill for the rough movement of getting the plunger in place, then use wrench for the press. I just want to squeeze the bag, not rupture it, lol.

Ya, i am sure there is some true in it, but I have never tasted anything that would make me stop doing it.
 
Cool.
I think it's the material you use to do the pressing in that would need to be strong.
 
Cool.
I think it's the material you use to do the pressing in that would need to be strong.
The plunger is 3/4" ply, nothing special. What had to be strong was the frame. I added the diagonal bolting after it started to tear out the screws that were holding it together, lol.
Of course after a year, the original all-thread stripped out too
 
Run some all-thread connecting top to bottom, next to the side members, with nuts and fender washers. That should hold it in place.
 
Or some of these.

connector.jpeg
 
Run some all-thread connecting top to bottom, next to the side members, with nuts and fender washers. That should hold it in place.
Nah, it's solid now. The cross pieces will bow and it doesn't come apart, which is allot more pressure than needed
 
There has been a myth that squeezing the bag after a BIAB mash will extract unwanted tannins. I'm not sure how this started.

Tannin extraction from the grain husks is generally only a problem for temperatures above 170 F and pH over about 5.8 or so. So, if temperature and oh are good, go ahead and squeeze the heck out of that bag. I do the same thing, although without quite as nifty equipment.
 
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I made a kettle lifter out of a lunch tray holder my brother gave me. I used a threaded rod to lift it, but after a couple of lifts the threads got mauled up. My youngest is a mechanical engineer student and said if you use an acme screw thread, you won't have that trouble. The problem is that acme screws are so aggressive (coarse). The thing I learned was that I could lift faster with less energy because acme screws are so efficient.
mate-screw-acme-stainless.png


It's driven by an old scooter motor. I put speed control on it and added some stops at the top and bottom.

If you have trouble again, look into the acme screw. I have some extra, maybe I'll use your design to build a press.
 
View attachment 23504

I made a kettle lifter out of a lunch tray holder my brother gave me. I used a threaded rod to lift it, but after a couple of lifts the threads got mauled up. My youngest is a mechanical engineer student and said if you use an acme screw thread, you won't have that trouble. The problem is that acme screws are so aggressive (coarse). The thing I learned was that I could lift faster with less energy because acme screws are so efficient.
mate-screw-acme-stainless.png


It's driven by an old scooter motor. I put speed control on it and added some stops at the top and bottom.

If you have trouble again, look into the acme screw. I have some extra, maybe I'll use your design to build a press.
That is what happened to the threads on the first rod, where it tightened up is where it failed.

I think 2 things contribute where threads are concerned.
1) How hard is the material, so it won't break the threads off
2) thread depth, again more material will be harder to break.

Thread pitch will determine how fast it goes up and down, but of course, the faster it goes, the more power you are required to move it.

This goes slow enough it should have enough power to tear the press apart before failing
 

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