All Grain equipment set-up

phildebrewer

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A mate and I are just looking to get into all grain brewing with little previous experience. We've seen many set ups with 3 pots (HLT, MLT and Kettle), we get the need for 2 pots but we struggle with having both a brew kettle and a hot liqour tank. Can someone help us understand the difference between the 2 v 3 pot set and the benefits of either or? Thanks
 
There are a lot of different ways to set things up, and it is possible to work around less than ideal equipment, but it's definitely handy to have a three vessel setup (at least - my ideal is to have 4, the 4th being a water building vessel, which would be pumped to the HLT). I'm actually rebuilding and adapting to my brew partner, who owned most of our equipment, leaving town to run a brewpub in Nebraska. Even at it's peak our setup was pretty simple: an HLT, a mash tun(MT, sometimes called a mash-lauter tun, or MLT), and a boil pot (BP). Our HLT was a 10 Gallon pot with a ball valve, our MT and BP were keggles with weldless ball valves and a grate in the bottom, with an elbowed pickup tube that went down through the grate into the little hollow at the bottom of the sanke kegs - this setup is available as a kit that costs ~$70. With this setup you can drain from your MT into your BP as you sparge from your HLT. If you get the MT draining into the BP at the same rate as you add sparge water from the HLT, you can keep the water at the same level, hopefully just above your grain bed. How many burners you have can come into play as well. The advantage of using a keg as a MT is that you can directly heat it in order to move from one temp rest to another, but you need at least 2 burners to do that. We would actually have the BP and the MT on burners (this also allows you to start heating the wort in the BP while still sparging), then heat water in smaller pots on the stove and dump them into the HLT, so a third burner would have come in handy. You can do exactly the same thing using a non-heatable MT, you just have to be a more precise with your hot water additions - I like the flexibility of a metal MT. The bottom line is that you have to think through the whole process, and the ways that each step can be accomplished. It's almost a good thing that most homebrewers have to patch together their equipment as they go due to financial constraints, because you really start figuring things out when you start brewing. I'd advise you to read and study enough to have the basic steps in mind, know the equipment alternatives (for example, one quick and dirty way to put together either a MT or a BP is to just screw a bazooka tube screen into a ball valve equipped stainless steel pot, with the size depending on the batch size. I've brewed quite a few batches that way. It works, and the tube is <$20. It does make directly heating your mash less practical due to potential scorching, since the grain sits on the bottom of the pot.), then brew a few batches. The various problems, possibilities, methods and choices will become clearer. Good luck.
 
As I understand it, the money you'd save on the third vessel is spent on the pump.

I have a simple gravity system, so I'm biased to that. The 3rd vessel can be a cheaply converted cooler style mash tun. I even used to use my old extract kettle to heat the strike water, and that worked out okay.

Then there is the one vessel solution - brew in a bag (BIAB), which is worth looking into for getting into all grain:
http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/06/20 ... ng-method/
http://www.brewersfriend.com/2012/06/23 ... can-order/
 
I agree with Larry. If you are just getting started in all grain, consider BIAB. You will need a full volume pot anyway, so all you would need is the bag which is fairly inexpensive, and it is nice to have that BIAB experience. After a few batches, and if you want to expand, a cheap cooler and a stainless braid, and your in business with a two vessel system. If your still adventurous, get a better brewpot, and your old one will become the HLT. Buy a couple of pumps and Lonnie Mac would be proud.
 
When I started I went through all the baby steps. Extract kits on the stove then to partial mash then all grain with a cooler for a mash tun and so on. All I know is I wasted a bunch of money by constantly upgrading. If I would of set a goal of doing 10gal batches and kegging everything I brew I would of saved alot of time and money. For the money the best way to go is to convert a few beer kegs for brewing in. They are great for 5 and 10gal batches. You will need a HLT if you plan to fly sparge but if you are going to batch sparge you can get away with just the two.
 
Hammer1 said:
When I started I went through all the baby steps. Extract kits on the stove then to partial mash then all grain with a cooler for a mash tun and so on. All I know is I wasted a bunch of money by constantly upgrading. If I would of set a goal of doing 10gal batches and kegging everything I brew I would of saved alot of time and money. For the money the best way to go is to convert a few beer kegs for brewing in. They are great for 5 and 10gal batches. You will need a HLT if you plan to fly sparge but if you are going to batch sparge you can get away with just the two.
I guess that's kind of hard to argue with. I've spent enough money on various smaller pots and parts that I could have the 3 keggles I want right now for the money. Some people seem to like the cooler mash tuns, but I don't see the appeal. Thing is, if you aren't sure you want to commit, you can start brewing for less money, but like you say, if you do wind up sticking with it, you end up with a pile of stuff you don't need. I guess you can always use the extra pots for something or other. I want to keg as well, but that's a pretty hefty investment, and I don't want to stop brewing while I save, so right now I'm bottling and priming.
 
Kegging will only make you want to get more kegs :)

Off the bat, go for at least a 15 gallon kettle so you can do 10 gallon batches!
 
Guys thanks for the great replys! It's a massive help to hear it from the guys who know and your advice will go along to us making the right decision for our venture in to all grain.
Now reading each of your replies draws me to my next question...As Hammer1 brought up, we don't really want to spend too much time continuously upgrading our kit as the need (and as our knowledge and recipe base expands) arises and would prefer to spend more time on our recipes, we are considering lashing out and purchasing a turnkey set up (though without all the electronics). In your experience and opinions what are the best systems out there?
We've done a fair amount of research on some of the options i.e. Sabco, ruby st brewing, some engineering firms etc. and would appreciated your feedback. Also, considering the fact that we are based in Australia, but are prepared to purchase off shore if need be, what would you recommend? Thanks
 
phildebrewer,
Check out the review I did on the Ruby Street system.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=154
For a system without controls, I'm thrilled with it.
I brewed 3 batches on it so far and an still dialing in a few things, but overall, for the money, I don't think you can go wrong with it.
Brian
 
One of the coolest things about Homebrewing is tha fact that you can build or have built just about everything that it takes to brew quality beers. Before you purchase an entire system check locally what it would cost to have one custom made. You will probably be suprised how much less it will cost. I use a two tier structure that I made myself for around $800.00 complete. I'll post some pics when I get home this weekend.
 
The Brew Mentor said:
phildebrewer,
Check out the review I did on the Ruby Street system.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=154
For a system without controls, I'm thrilled with it.
I brewed 3 batches on it so far and an still dialing in a few things, but overall, for the money, I don't think you can go wrong with it.
Brian

Brian great link to your review, sounds awesome and the pictures look great...pretty jealous right now.
What made you go for the Ruby Street set up? And did you consider any others in your vetting process?
 
Hammer1 said:
One of the coolest things about Homebrewing is tha fact that you can build or have built just about everything that it takes to brew quality beers. Before you purchase an entire system check locally what it would cost to have one custom made. You will probably be suprised how much less it will cost. I use a two tier structure that I made myself for around $800.00 complete. I'll post some pics when I get home this weekend.

I totally agree with you Hammer1 on building your own set up and the joy that comes with going through the complete process but, neither I or my mate are very handy when it comes to cutting and shutting stainless or any other materials for that matter and kind of don't want to take the risk of cutting an arm off in the process (a bit extreme and highly unlikely I know, but still... :D ). Keen to get a reliable system up and running, that no doubt will need some tweaking as we go and then focus on the perfecting our recipes and brewing alot better beer than the highly commercialised stuff on the market here in Aus at the moment. Would be great to see some pics of your set up, thanks.
 
If you build your own, get ready to make tons of trips to the hardware store, unless you are already a capable plumber/welder! My record is something like 5 trips to Ace Hardware in one day, but that was for a home improvement project. It was probably closer to 3 for my mash tun :lol:
 
Does the Brewers Friend software offer a way to import an equipment setup? Like the Ruby Street Brewery or Sabco system?
 
Equipment profiles can't be shared at this time, so it is good old manual entry at this point. However, if you want to share the data in the forum that would be helpful to others.

To some extent I wonder if the values depend on brewing practices too, not just the raw equipment. For example, how hard you boil, if you strain the wort or leave some behind, etc etc...

Nice brew rig!!!
 
phildebrewer said:
The Brew Mentor said:
phildebrewer,
Check out the review I did on the Ruby Street system.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=154
For a system without controls, I'm thrilled with it.
I brewed 3 batches on it so far and an still dialing in a few things, but overall, for the money, I don't think you can go wrong with it.
Brian

Brian great link to your review, sounds awesome and the pictures look great...pretty jealous right now.
What made you go for the Ruby Street set up? And did you consider any others in your vetting process?

I looked at the Sabco system mostly and although I liked it, I couldn't justify the extra money for the controls.
I've brewed quite a bit on the Ruby Street now and overall am happy with it. There are some things I'd change, but those are small and specific to me.
I like the offset better on the 15 gallon system just for the ease of getting the MLT in and out for cleaning. Although some may consider storing their system upright, I've found that most just leave it set up so it really doesn't matter how compact it is.
The new 1 barrel system seems nice and easier to fill the HLT. The only thing is a second pump and I actually like moving things with pumps. They're also super easy to take apart and clean.
If you decide to go with one, feel free to call me at the shop to discuss it further. I'd have to look into international shipping, but I have commercial shipping accounts so it wouldn't be more than a phone call.
Hope this helps.
Brian
 
I use an igloo cooler for the hot liquor tank, and igloo cooler with false bottom for a mash tun, sparge arm for fly sparging, and a 10 gallon brew pot to collect the wort and boil. works like a charm.
 

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