1yr in….what next?

You guys are great! Thank you for the continued advice and support.
I was expecting a lot of folks might suggest lagering but I am blown away by the number of responses that offered "temperature control" as being a big factor in their ales. I ferment in a very temperature stable (66F-68F) finished basement, in a glass carboy, using primarily US-05. All of my pale ales have fermented along the same predictable schedule, with similar results with respect to flavor, gravity etc. When you refer to temperature control are you talking about eliminating fluctuations or fermenting at a specific temperature to get a better end result. What kind of improvements could I expect? Is US-05 just particularly forgiving or well suited for 66F-68F? Or am I making lousy beer and just havent figured that out yet?!?!?!? (Joking)
I am eager to begin kegging, it has been on my short list of additions for a while. Until I can find a used set up locally I am ok with bottling.
TrialBen had a great suggestion about the Quarterly Brew. My brew-ducation thus far has targeted specific elements in my process. Its probably a good time to bring it all together to see how close I can get to a specific end product.
Thanks again everyone.

GDubs
Both, you will eliminate fluctuations by the control. A simple old fridge with an inkbird can do it.

But yes you are not stuck with whatever temp your basement is that day.
 
You guys are great! Thank you for the continued advice and support.
I was expecting a lot of folks might suggest lagering but I am blown away by the number of responses that offered "temperature control" as being a big factor in their ales. I ferment in a very temperature stable (66F-68F) finished basement, in a glass carboy, using primarily US-05. All of my pale ales have fermented along the same predictable schedule, with similar results with respect to flavor, gravity etc. When you refer to temperature control are you talking about eliminating fluctuations or fermenting at a specific temperature to get a better end result. What kind of improvements could I expect? Is US-05 just particularly forgiving or well suited for 66F-68F? Or am I making lousy beer and just havent figured that out yet?!?!?!? (Joking)
I am eager to begin kegging, it has been on my short list of additions for a while. Until I can find a used set up locally I am ok with bottling.
TrialBen had a great suggestion about the Quarterly Brew. My brew-ducation thus far has targeted specific elements in my process. Its probably a good time to bring it all together to see how close I can get to a specific end product.
Thanks again everyone.

GDubs
With such decent temperature stability, I'd drop it down on the list. My garage is not so stable, temperature-wise.
 
You guys are great! Thank you for the continued advice and support.
I was expecting a lot of folks might suggest lagering but I am blown away by the number of responses that offered "temperature control" as being a big factor in their ales. I ferment in a very temperature stable (66F-68F) finished basement, in a glass carboy, using primarily US-05. All of my pale ales have fermented along the same predictable schedule, with similar results with respect to flavor, gravity etc. When you refer to temperature control are you talking about eliminating fluctuations or fermenting at a specific temperature to get a better end result. What kind of improvements could I expect? Is US-05 just particularly forgiving or well suited for 66F-68F? Or am I making lousy beer and just havent figured that out yet?!?!?!? (Joking)
I am eager to begin kegging, it has been on my short list of additions for a while. Until I can find a used set up locally I am ok with bottling.
TrialBen had a great suggestion about the Quarterly Brew. My brew-ducation thus far has targeted specific elements in my process. Its probably a good time to bring it all together to see how close I can get to a specific end product.
Thanks again everyone.

GDubs
Most yeasts do like that 66-68 range. Some of the Saison yeasts like it warmer. Lager yeasts like it in the 50s. Consistancy is very good.
 
Some yeasts like higher temperatures, like a lot of Belgiums (which I happen to like).

I started kegging this year. Bit of a learning curve. I use oxebar kegs and they fit my small batch brewing very well (and my budget :) )
 
For me, what really upped my game was temp control on the fermentor. This made results repeatable and took a major variable out of the equation when evaluating what happened.

Other thing that I added fairly early on was testing during mash. Check gravity, check if starch still exist. This will effect efficiency and it will effect how the fermentation will go.
Temperature control, was a game changer for me, too. Particularly during the first three to five days. The difference in quality and taste going from 70 degrees to 64 degrees was huge. A lot less off flavors, too.
 
You guys are great! Thank you for the continued advice and support.
I was expecting a lot of folks might suggest lagering but I am blown away by the number of responses that offered "temperature control" as being a big factor in their ales. I ferment in a very temperature stable (66F-68F) finished basement, in a glass carboy, using primarily US-05. All of my pale ales have fermented along the same predictable schedule, with similar results with respect to flavor, gravity etc. When you refer to temperature control are you talking about eliminating fluctuations or fermenting at a specific temperature to get a better end result. What kind of improvements could I expect? Is US-05 just particularly forgiving or well suited for 66F-68F? Or am I making lousy beer and just havent figured that out yet?!?!?!? (Joking)
I am eager to begin kegging, it has been on my short list of additions for a while. Until I can find a used set up locally I am ok with bottling.
TrialBen had a great suggestion about the Quarterly Brew. My brew-ducation thus far has targeted specific elements in my process. Its probably a good time to bring it all together to see how close I can get to a specific end product.
Thanks again everyone.

GDubs
Temperature Control, and Water Quality
Each was a quantum leap in beer quality for me!

Temperature control is:
Controlling the temperature of the beer, not the environment it is in.
Yeast generates varying amounts of heat during the fermenting process, the heat gets dissipated by the ambient air, but the wort/beer temperature will rise and fall. Using an inkbird controller with a probe will cycle a fridge on and off, as well as a heater to maintain the beer temperature.
Think of the fermenting process like a Saturday in the fall. You get up and put a sweater on because it is a little cool.
You get out working in the yard, and maybe the sun warms up the air a bit too, so you take your sweater off to stay comfortable.
You could leave it on and still do what you have to do, but you won't be comfortable, and you may sweat and get smelly, then nobody will like you!
Later it cools off, and you stop for a break, so you put the sweater back on to stay comfortable. If you don't put the sweater back on you will be uncomfortable again.

My setup (below). I found a small fridge cheap, have a terrarium heater in there, and the probe is just held onto the side of the fermenter under a bit of reflective with tape. You con get more precise by putting the probe right in the beer through a thermowell, but for this volume of beer this is close enough for rock and roll.

Regarding water, the single most important thing to me is to make sure the water you are using isn't chlorinated. Even worse, some municipalities use the more stable chloromine. For that reason, for years now, I have been using RO water and adding calcium chloride, pickling salt (table salt is iodized), gypsum, magnesium, and sometimes baking soda when needed for dark beers to get a profile that will accent the hops in hoppy beers, or rht e malts in malty beers.

1701371997549.png
 
I'm in a similar spot as the OP. To me, it seems like improving or taking the next step is simply deciding on some aspect of brewing to "control" better. I've got a three tier plan as I begin brewing again after a 2-year break.

1. Control water volume - I recently bought a 10-gallon brew kettle so I can do a full volume mash (BIAB). My old kettle had no accurate way of measuring water and I was not good at keeping track of how much I added before boil.
2. Control fermentation temp - As soon as I am able (by the end of this year), I am getting a chest freezer and a temp control unit for better temp control for fermentation. Previously, I was a slave to room temperature and sometimes used a swamp cooler.
3. Control water chemistry - I've already started my research into additions. My next few batches will be done with spring water rather than the half-tap, half-distilled that I used to do.

Better brewing seems to be all about controlling as many variables as possible. As budget allows, I can have more control over the process. Also, I am about to bite it and get a couple of corney kegs and quit bottling. I freaking hate bottling.
 
I'm in a similar spot as the OP. To me, it seems like improving or taking the next step is simply deciding on some aspect of brewing to "control" better. I've got a three tier plan as I begin brewing again after a 2-year break.

1. Control water volume - I recently bought a 10-gallon brew kettle so I can do a full volume mash (BIAB). My old kettle had no accurate way of measuring water and I was not good at keeping track of how much I added before boil.
2. Control fermentation temp - As soon as I am able (by the end of this year), I am getting a chest freezer and a temp control unit for better temp control for fermentation. Previously, I was a slave to room temperature and sometimes used a swamp cooler.
3. Control water chemistry - I've already started my research into additions. My next few batches will be done with spring water rather than the half-tap, half-distilled that I used to do.

Better brewing seems to be all about controlling as many variables as possible. As budget allows, I can have more control over the process. Also, I am about to bite it and get a couple of corney kegs and quit bottling. I freaking hate bottling.
I am nearly 5 years in, but have changed little. It takes me a lot of consideration before making changes, but I am looking into kegging and temperature control. I will have some discussion with my wife before making any serious changes to my brewing regimen. Since my batch size is 2.5 gallons, my bottling consists of 24 at a time, and I actually enjoy the process.
 
Temperature Control, and Water Quality
Each was a quantum leap in beer quality for me!

Temperature control is:
Controlling the temperature of the beer, not the environment it is in.
Yeast generates varying amounts of heat during the fermenting process, the heat gets dissipated by the ambient air, but the wort/beer temperature will rise and fall. Using an inkbird controller with a probe will cycle a fridge on and off, as well as a heater to maintain the beer temperature.
Think of the fermenting process like a Saturday in the fall. You get up and put a sweater on because it is a little cool.
You get out working in the yard, and maybe the sun warms up the air a bit too, so you take your sweater off to stay comfortable.
You could leave it on and still do what you have to do, but you won't be comfortable, and you may sweat and get smelly, then nobody will like you!
Later it cools off, and you stop for a break, so you put the sweater back on to stay comfortable. If you don't put the sweater back on you will be uncomfortable again.

My setup (below). I found a small fridge cheap, have a terrarium heater in there, and the probe is just held onto the side of the fermenter under a bit of reflective with tape. You con get more precise by putting the probe right in the beer through a thermowell, but for this volume of beer this is close enough for rock and roll.

Regarding water, the single most important thing to me is to make sure the water you are using isn't chlorinated. Even worse, some municipalities use the more stable chloromine. For that reason, for years now, I have been using RO water and adding calcium chloride, pickling salt (table salt is iodized), gypsum, magnesium, and sometimes baking soda when needed for dark beers to get a profile that will accent the hops in hoppy beers, or rht e malts in malty beers.

View attachment 27473

I use the stick-on thermometers, too. Good to see others are trying to keep it simple. My fermenting room stays ~72 F and found I can keep the ferment near 64 F for 12 hours with a gallon jug of ice under a towel. A few additional ice packs are sometimes needed for the first few days when the yeast is making a bit of heat. This routine is fine for me and I get to play with my toys every day.
 

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I'm in a similar spot as the OP. To me, it seems like improving or taking the next step is simply deciding on some aspect of brewing to "control" better. I've got a three tier plan as I begin brewing again after a 2-year break.

1. Control water volume - I recently bought a 10-gallon brew kettle so I can do a full volume mash (BIAB). My old kettle had no accurate way of measuring water and I was not good at keeping track of how much I added before boil.
2. Control fermentation temp - As soon as I am able (by the end of this year), I am getting a chest freezer and a temp control unit for better temp control for fermentation. Previously, I was a slave to room temperature and sometimes used a swamp cooler.
3. Control water chemistry - I've already started my research into additions. My next few batches will be done with spring water rather than the half-tap, half-distilled that I used to do.

Better brewing seems to be all about controlling as many variables as possible. As budget allows, I can have more control over the process. Also, I am about to bite it and get a couple of corney kegs and quit bottling. I freaking hate bottling.
As you consider a cooler for fermentation temperature control, think about whether you really want to lift a full fermenter up and drop it down into a cooling area. You might find that moving it horizontally into something resembling a traditional refrigerator might be easier. Of course, if you are brewing small batches it probably won't matter much, but 5 gallons of beer weighs over 40 pounds.
 
I'm in a similar spot as the OP. To me, it seems like improving or taking the next step is simply deciding on some aspect of brewing to "control" better. I've got a three tier plan as I begin brewing again after a 2-year break.

1. Control water volume - I recently bought a 10-gallon brew kettle so I can do a full volume mash (BIAB). My old kettle had no accurate way of measuring water and I was not good at keeping track of how much I added before boil.
2. Control fermentation temp - As soon as I am able (by the end of this year), I am getting a chest freezer and a temp control unit for better temp control for fermentation. Previously, I was a slave to room temperature and sometimes used a swamp cooler.
3. Control water chemistry - I've already started my research into additions. My next few batches will be done with spring water rather than the half-tap, half-distilled that I used to do.

Better brewing seems to be all about controlling as many variables as possible. As budget allows, I can have more control over the process. Also, I am about to bite it and get a couple of corney kegs and quit bottling. I freaking hate bottling.
With the Blichmann burner, I would easily overflow the 10 gallon kettle with BIAB with a 5 gallon batch during the hot break. Mine is something fierce. I buy spring water at Publix in 1 gallon and 2.5 gallon containers. When the containers are empty, I have 8 gallons of strike water. With those chest freezers, make sure you have a way to load and unload your fermentor without breaking your back. The refrigerator is bad enough. I like using plain spring water with no additions, but my spring water is sourced in Ocala and may have a better balance than what you have. Our tap water tastes like shit, but what they get from the natural springs is tasty. The Corny Keg is a bomb. I love it, but make sure it fits in the fridge or cooler. I have just a couple of inches of room in my fridge above the keg.
 
If you have a pump, and co2, you can pump the wort into the fermenter insitu, and then rack to your keg instu as well.
 

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