Boil off question - water vs wort.

Vodka Drunkenski

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I picked up a Brau Supply all-in-one (10 gal Unibrau) this summer, and I need to calculate
the boil off rate. Wondering how close is a water boil off compared to a wort boil off?
Are they close enough, or will I have to get a brew done to truly know? Thanks.
 
I picked up a Brau Supply all-in-one (10 gal Unibrau) this summer, and I need to calculate
the boil off rate. Wondering how close is a water boil off compared to a wort boil off?
Are they close enough, or will I have to get a brew done to truly know? Thanks.
Wort is like 90% water, i am sure it is close enough
 
Consider it the same for the purposes of setting up equipment profile.
Boil off varies considerably depending on ambient conditions so there's probably more difference between any two days of wort boil off than there would be between wort and water boil off.
If your brewhouse environment is fairly stable from day to day and season to season, your boil off probably wouldn't vary much at all. If you might go from 50 degrees and dry to 90 degrees and humid, you could see pretty substantial difference.
 
If your brewhouse environment is fairly stable from day to day and season to season, your boil off probably wouldn't vary much at all. If you might go from 50 degrees and dry to 90 degrees and humid, you could see pretty substantial difference.
Should be stable enough...It's 240V so I need to plug into the oven outlet, which means
room temps. Hoping a box fan in the window will help remove the majority of the steam
(I can position the unit close enough to the window I think). I can't see myself doing any
brewing in the summer...way too hot, and I can't provide any cooling for fermentation.
 
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Should be stable enough...It's 240V so I need to plug into the oven outlet, which means
room temps. Hoping a box fan in the window will help remove the majority of the steam
(I can position the unit close enough to the window I think). I can't see myself doing any
brewing in the summer...way too hot, and I can't provide any cooling for fermentation.
Should be stable enough...most of us boil in an open area where the temps and humidity can be all over the place and still manage to keep things in a predictable range. :)
And, yes...there will be steam. :)
 
You would get more boil off variance between different degrees of vigoursness of boil than if the variable was water or wort.
 
You would get more boil off variance between different degrees of vigoursness of boil than if the variable was water or wort.
OK. I was under the impression that the boil should always be as vigorous as possible to flare off as much DMS as you can. What circumstances would require a less vigorous boil (besides potential boil over)? Thanks.
 
OK. I was under the impression that the boil should always be as vigorous as possible to flare off as much DMS as you can. What circumstances would require a less vigorous boil (besides potential boil over)? Thanks.
It doesn't have to be vigorous as hell that's a wives tale
just a nice rolling boil not a jumping out of the pot boil
you can adjust your boil off rate with your boil rate
there is also chance of increasing the mallard reaction and darken the beer and change the flavor by boiling to fast
you should recirculate or stir the boil for the same reason
 
OK. I was under the impression that the boil should always be as vigorous as possible to flare off as much DMS as you can. What circumstances would require a less vigorous boil (besides potential boil over)? Thanks.
Make sure it's boiling and not just simmering but just at a rolling boil is good. A lost of movement on the surface but not necessarily bubbling heavily. With electric fired kettles, there will be easy adjustment and you'll find a setting that works. Some all in one units are a little underpowered and with a 10 gallon, you may need full power to maintain the right boil. The 120V version of that system comes with a 1650 watt element and that's pretty good for 10 gallons. The 240V comes with a 5500 watt element and that's what I use for my 15 gallon pot (10 gallon batches).
Also note...you can heat with the lid on so it'll take less time to boil but then take the lid off.
 
OK. I was under the impression that the boil should always be as vigorous as possible to flare off as much DMS as you can. What circumstances would require a less vigorous boil (besides potential boil over)? Thanks.
I was only pointing out that there are other factors in the amount of boil off you will get. Your question was about the difference in boil off rate between water and wort. If all othe factors are equal the difference will be minute, imperceptible.

Boil off rate will be affected more by the degree of vigorousness of the boil (if you are using a propane burner for instance). Other factors are the degree of ambient humidity, and temperature.
 
Should be stable enough...It's 240V so I need to plug into the oven outlet, which means
room temps. Hoping a box fan in the window will help remove the majority of the steam
(I can position the unit close enough to the window I think). I can't see myself doing any
brewing in the summer...way too hot, and I can't provide any cooling for fermentation.
You need a source of ‘make up’ air, since the fan can’t depressurize the house by much. Leave the other window open so the air flows.

There will be steam. Enough to remove the wallpaper if you don’t deal with it.
 
You need a source of ‘make up’ air, since the fan can’t depressurize the house by much. Leave the other window open so the air flows.

There will be steam. Enough to remove the wallpaper if you don’t deal with it.
Which would be great if you had wallpaper that you wanted gone...
 
Leave the other window open so the air flows.
Yeap....already had that factored in. This boil off test/cleaning run will give me a good idea
of what I'm up against.

Thanks for the info, guys. I've still got enough "brewing season" left to get used to this
system. Actually....looks like a 2 week cold snap coming in. Lager........???? :D
 
Big bubbles, no troubles.
 

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