Dry hopping in keg

EvanAltman36

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Okay, so I'm going to get ambitious (for me at least) and try to brew 3 batches over the long weekend. Supplying beer for a buddy's wedding totally sapped me, so I've got to replenish. I'm not sure why I've not dry hopped in the keg before, but I'm thinking that's where I'm heading in the future.

I've been doing the weighted muslin bag in primary, which is a carboy, but that leads to issues with possible O2 introduction and then adds cleaning time and effort after. Now my question is this: if I stick with the same weighted bag method, I'm thinking I'd just close the lid, purge O2 and let it go for a few days before removing, purging, carbing.

The bag should keep enough of the hops contained so that I don't have to rack to a second keg, right? Or the amount left behind would eventually fall to the bottom and perhaps impact the first couple pints.

Finally, and this might be a weird question, but are there any recommended types of string to use for tying the bag off? I've used some semi-elastic stuff that's similar to fishing line; nothing like yarn or fiber that could hold liquid and lead to mildew or mold.
 
Sounds like you got it figured out. That is how I do it, except with a nylon paint strainer bag. I also use dental floss as a suspension string. Finally, I have found a use for dental floss. A week or less is about right. Any more and some vegetation flavors can form ( I have heard. never let it go that long myself). Also, I believe I heard that Braukiser had tested and proved the theory that any benefit of dry hopping has run its course in just a few days, and any longer exposure is unnecessary. If you still want more hop aroma than dry hop a second time.

Right on with the wedding beer.
 
Stone Brewing says the same thing - multiple charges for a few days at a time are superior to a single large charge.
 
Dental floss, good call. Strong and cheap. I had read something a while back, a study, that found that 3 days was plenty. I'm thinking of cutting my total dry-hop bill into halves and doing 2 separate 3-day additions.

Also, does the beer's temp matter for the purposes of the dry hopping? Ideally, I'd just leave it in the fridge, but if the colder temps will negatively impact the absorption of the hops, then it's a waste.
 
I dry hop in a keg all the time, just double dry hopped an odd tasting apa , did wonders.

I use 5 gallon paint stainer bags from lowes, the reason they are loser and there is enough slack to tie a lose knot mostly for cleaning it later which is a real pain but I don't tie it up,

you can tie it to the tip tub and push it down half way but I just let it fall to the bottom, the reason is I take it out after 3 days any way and replace it with new and use a racking cane to pull it out.

if you let it fall to the bottom you will get some residue in your glass after a day that perks you up but I'm used to it and it goes away after a day.

you can buy a keg lid with a welded on L bracket drilled just for this also a hop basket made for kegs with a 304 stainless mesh 300 microns. Ive been thinking seriously about that one
 
Good stuff. I like the muslin bags because they're cheap and disposable, plus they still prevent much debris from escaping. I think I'll maintain my method of weighted suspension rather than get too new with much, but I appreciate any and all feedback.

And does temp matter? I will obviously not let the beer get too warm, but does cold negatively impact the dry hop process?
 
I've dry hopped in keg with the muslin bag multiple times. I do it cold and get get great results.
 
I dry hop in my 38 degree keezer and after 2 - 3 day bags it works very well , but in reality the hotter the better for hop penetration to the water molecule

I often let the hops sit on the bottom for a week then transfer it to another keg with my transfer hose (out to out) just to mix it up then serve, if you really want a clear beer you would then need to filter or add gelatin because this process will defiantly add hop flavor but will cloud the beer big time
 
Ozarks Mountian Brew said:
I dry hop in my 38 degree keezer and after 2 - 3 day bags it works very well , but in reality the hotter the better for hop penetration to the water molecule

Awesome, this appears to be the general consensus from my research as well, though I've heard of good results either way. Thanks!
 
Ozarks Mountian Brew said:
I dry hop in my 38 degree keezer and after 2 - 3 day bags it works very well , but in reality the hotter the better for hop penetration to the water molecule

I often let the hops sit on the bottom for a week then transfer it to another keg with my transfer hose (out to out) just to mix it up then serve, if you really want a clear beer you would then need to filter or add gelatin because this process will defiantly add hop flavor but will cloud the beer big time
Ive had 2 oz of hops in a stainless steel herb ball for over a month. There are no grassy or vegative flavors. Ive never used gelatin, just irish moss at 15, and my beer is still crystal clear.
 
when I hop in the keg, I leave them in there until it kicks. no off flavors at all and I swear the aroma doesn't fade as quickly.

I have screens around my dip tubes so I can throw whole cone in "free range". When using pellets, I use a mesh bag.
 

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