Should I bother dry hopping?

Suga

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With this much trub, should I even bother dryhopping 2oz of the same hop? It's not an IPA just light ale about 39ibu. Lemondrop.
New burner worked much better then expected and boil of was around 30% so had to keep much more then I usually would have and still had to top up with 3/4 gallon.
But looking at this after it has settled I'm wondering if I should bother. Won't this pretty much do the same thing?
IMG_20200705_194159.jpg
 
With this much trub, should I even bother dryhopping 2oz of the same hop? It's not an IPA just light ale about 39ibu. Lemondrop.
New burner worked much better then expected and boil of was around 30% so had to keep much more then I usually would have and still had to top up with 3/4 gallon.
But looking at this after it has settled I'm wondering if I should bother. Won't this pretty much do the same thing?View attachment 10743

A couple ounces of dry hops won't make that much difference in your volume. About .15 qt./oz. volume loss per ounce. (about 1 1/4 cup total volume loss for 2 oz. of hop pellets)

For future reference, you could have left the normal amount of trub in your kettle and topped off the fermenter to achieve the desired OG. With a greater boil off the wort is more concentrated, so diluting OG should bring you very close to the volume expectation. Not diluting leaves you with less volume and a higher OG.
 
You will never get every single ounce of beer out of your fermenter. If you want to get an extra few ounces out of your batch,just increase the batch size a wee bit. If you want the beer to be what it is supposed to be, definitely add the dry hop addition. Here is a tip for keeping the trub away from your spigot for cleaner transfers. Use some kind of wedge to tip your fermenter. My fermenters are HDPE, and not completely see through, but if you look closely you can see how the trub has settled away from the spigot, as will any dry hop debris.
Cheers!
20200505_074932.jpg
 
Not concerned with volume at this point. I already topped up to 5 gallons. She always calculate 1/2gallon loss to trub, volume shrinkage.
I don't normally transfer over this much.So I'm wondering if the dry hop would be necessary with this much hop material already there?

The volume is why i have so much more then normal. Fyi this pic is 2 hrs after pitching so i assume yeast with add another 1/4 inch or more
 
IMG_20200706_113406.jpg

To further illustrate, this is current hop material being circulated by yeast activity. Don't think i will dry hop this batch.
IMG_20200706_113406.jpg
 
By the time your wort was chilled, pretty much all of the oils had already been extracted from the hops, so anything the hop debris in the fermenter contributes will be negligible. If you want the beer to be as close to plan as possible, I'd recommend dry hopping.
 
By the time your wort was chilled, pretty much all of the oils had already been extracted from the hops, so anything the hop debris in the fermenter contributes will be negligible. If you want the beer to be as close to plan as possible, I'd recommend dry hopping.
I see, that's the info I'm looking for. Ok guess i will dry hop it then.
 
Lemon Drop in the dry hop is a really nice thing. It'll really make the aroma pop. I'd dry hop it for a couple of days and crash it before you rack it or bottle. Yes, the hop sludge will add a layer to the trub but you won't lose much from it.
The spigot is not your friend when it comes to getting clean beer into the bottling bucket or keg. One trick is to prop the fermenter at an angle (a CD case or 2 under one side is perfect for this) while it's crashing or settling so that the trub will settle away from the spigot. That will give you a better chance at draining the maximum before the sludge makes its way to the spigot.
 
Lemon Drop in the dry hop is a really nice thing. It'll really make the aroma pop. I'd dry hop it for a couple of days and crash it before you rack it or bottle. Yes, the hop sludge will add a layer to the trub but you won't lose much from it.
The spigot is not your friend when it comes to getting clean beer into the bottling bucket or keg. One trick is to prop the fermenter at an angle (a CD case or 2 under one side is perfect for this) while it's crashing or settling so that the trub will settle away from the spigot. That will give you a better chance at draining the maximum before the sludge makes its way to the spigot.
Why didn't I think of that...
 

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