Dry hopping help needed

[Weardend]

Considering dry hopping next time i brew. Just concerned about adding after fermentation is complete and therefore losing the Co 2 when i open the bin. Any ideas /thoughts

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

add your dry hops before the activity is done meaning the bubbles are still going and you'll be fine

 

[The Brew Mentor]

Honestly, just toss them in at any point.
Use reasonable caution not to add additional oxygen.
Party On!

 

[Hogarthe]

There will be some co2 trapped in the beer which will come out when you add the dry hops, and refill the headspace. as long as you are not leaving it open for a ridiculous amount of time you should be fine.

 

[Michael_biab]

Just to be clear - if you're worried about losing the C02 cap upon opening your fermentor, I believe some more will be generated when you start the dry hop process. At least that's what I understand from responses to my posting a week or so ago (search for "dry hopping" and "barleywine" tags) in the general brewing discussion area. The title is "New to dry hopping". Sorry, I couldn't figure our how to link it here. But I am adding a picture of what mine did. Good luck!

 

[The Green Man]

I can't claim to know the science, but you can just dump them in 3-4 days before bottling with no issues. I simply drop them in commando, great for getting the taste and aroma but a bit messy. I use a tea strainer when racking to my bottling bucket and it seems to take care of most of the floaties.

 

[Nosybear]

I can't claim to know the science, but you can just dump them in 3-4 days before bottling with no issues. I simply drop them in commando, great for getting the taste and aroma but a bit messy. I use a tea strainer when racking to my bottling bucket and it seems to take care of most of the floaties.

Hops are antibacterial, one of the reasons they're the perfect herb for beer! And fermented beer is not a hospitable place for most microorganisms, a few can survive (acetobacter) but need oxygen. Oxygen, by the way, is the greatest danger in dry hopping, particularly if you use whole hops, lots of air space in those. While you can just dump them in, I prefer to put my dry hops in a disposable, sanitized (dunked in sanitizer) muslin bag with a weight (a sanitized, stainless steel weight), stuff them in the neck of the carboy, then rack the beer off 3-4 days later.

 

[The Green Man]

I hear you Nosybear, my last commando dumping cost me a very healthy yeast cake. I always use pellets so oxidation risk is lower.
Bag or commando seems a dilemma. Commando seems to be more effective due to increased surface area, but bagged seems to lend to better clarity and better looking beer.
Prime case for a split batch (secondary) ex-beer-iment.

 

[Hogarthe]

Hops are antibacterial, one of the reasons they're the perfect herb for beer! And fermented beer is not a hospitable place for most microorganisms, a few can survive (acetobacter) but need oxygen. Oxygen, by the way, is the greatest danger in dry hopping, particularly if you use whole hops, lots of air space in those. While you can just dump them in, I prefer to put my dry hops in a disposable, sanitized (dunked in sanitizer) muslin bag with a weight (a sanitized, stainless steel weight), stuff them in the neck of the carboy, then rack the beer off 3-4 days later.

A glass marble or two works just as well if you can't find a stainless steel weight.

 

[Nosybear]

A glass marble or two works just as well if you can't find a stainless steel weight.

Better - the glass is smoother (better sanitation) and it doesn't discolor.

 

[GFHomebrew]

so far so good here with the dump and run dry hop method i dry hopped my latest IPA yesterday like this and im pretty sure shell be right mate.

i use the fine mesh cloth same as biab material tied around end of transfer hose and biiled for 10 then phosphoric soak to catch them stray particals never usually much.

good luck and enjoy those hops!