Cooler Mashtuns

One question, might be stupid but i have to aks. Why so many of you use these coolers as mashtuns?
There is reason for that i just haven´t figured it out
 
JVi said:
One question, might be stupid but i have to aks. Why so many of you use these coolers as mashtuns?
There is reason for that i just haven´t figured it out
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Two reasons: Cheap and Easy. Plus, in addition to the cost, I didn't have the space for a multi-kettle setup (mash tun + hot liquor tank + boil kettle) setup.
The all-in-one kits (which were just starting to come out when I started brewing all-grain) while saving on space, were even more expensive (they still are).
 
BarbarianBrewer said:
Two reasons: Cheap and Easy. Plus, in addition to the cost, I didn't have the space for a multi-kettle setup (mash tun + hot liquor tank + boil kettle) setup.
The all-in-one kits (which were just starting to come out when I started brewing all-grain) while saving on space, were even more expensive (they still are).
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Now i know, thanks. Those all-in-one kits cost arm and a leg, just looked once and decided to build very poor mans version.
 
I have an "All in One" machine, not an expensive one, a Brewzilla 35 that is about 5 years old it was $500 then.
These all in ones are very limiting though, they truly aren't all in ones as you pretty much need something separate for heating/reserving sparge water.
I used this cooler years ago, and decided to resurrect it and just use the Brewzilla to heat up strike water, and then to do the boil.
We'll see how it goes on the recommissioning voyage on Friday!

Here is the seal I used previously on the left, it was plated steel with a nitrile seal, these are called Dowty Washers, or Bonded seals, they are used in hydraulics for British parallel threaded port fittings. Two issues were obviously corrosion, but also nitrile is not suitable for water, the pH eats away at it over time. The one on the right is stainless steel with viton. Viton is also not the greatest seal material for water, but should stand up better than nitrile. I got a couple so I have a spare when needed.
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Viton sealing should be pretty solid for that. Can handle cold and hot water, even steam. We use those injection molding molds, expensive but great
 
Craigerrr said:
I heated about 32 liters to 69C according to the kettle thermometer. The orange thermometer measured 68C, which one is correct, hard to say but 1C difference potato tomato... after transferring to the mash tun giving it a couple of stirs and 10 minutes to settle it seems like the temperature drop is 3C. Planning to brew on Friday, so will put this to the test, will heat strike water to 3C over recipe strike temperature.
View attachment 33492View attachment 33493
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Uhhh, that calculation (3 C) is only correct if your grain is also at the water temperature.

There’s a strike calculator on BF that accounts for cooler grain.
 
Donoroto said:
Uhhh, that calculation (3 C) is only correct if your grain is also at the water temperature.

There’s a strike calculator on BF that accounts for cooler grain.
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Yes, I will heat the strike water 3C higher than my desired strike temperature. For tomorrow I need 70C to get me to 66C mash temp, so to take into account the 3C loss from the mash tun itself,I will heat strike water to 73C.
But thanks Don
 
Donoroto said:
Glucoamylase and beta amylase are different stuffs
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Damn! I typed beta glucanase in Amazon, didn't notice that the search result was different all together. Not a returnable item either
 
Understandable. I had meant to type beta glucanase, not beta amylase. I’m not much of an organic chemistry guy.

But on the bright side now you have something that will help increase your attenuation. I’d call that a win anyway.
 
JVi said:
And for boiling you pumped it back to Brewzilla?
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Yup
I won't do a single infusion next time, will definitely do a sparge
 
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