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Just about any yeast can, will produce more if fermented too cold. This is why you let your beer ride for a week after it is done with active fermentation. Yeast will clean that up.
Low oxygenation, high diacetil
- Thread starter Mastoras007
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ok, I get it now...
But my 2 best batches, super greate beer, both was 10 days beer,
i dont just testing things, this method is from john palmer book ,for a 10 day ale, raising the tempreture to speed up , after high crausen
this screenshoot is from his book . pdf
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You can do that, I never have. Time is your friend. There is nothing wrong with sampling while in the fermenter too. If it tastes like it isn't finished, give it a few more days
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That's sounds logic, as i said I'm not brewing just for drink, im testing things, i know the basic
Every of flavour or infection i get it's a win for me, but it's a win if i known what happened and why, I will keep testing things, i must buy this off flavour kit its necessary , will help me a lot
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You may not be brewing just to drink, but all the breweries that I go to have one thing in common: All of the brewers will drink one or two a shift, and they enjoy what they have on tap. It is always a good sign sitting at the bar when you see an owner or a brewer pouring one for themselves.
@Sandy Feet
what is this lagering thing you speak of??? it sounds very foreign...
@Mastoras007
While i am flattered, i am probably not the best inspiration. I dont have a choice on the timeframes, i can assure you a 6 month lager is going to be FAR better then my 10 day lager. Spunding helps a lot, but that requires more then a bucket. Generally speaking time is your friend. I always shoot for repeating gravities before i crash a beer...i also cap the tank and track the pressure build up to just confirm that its not slowly dropping still(building some pressure over my work day)
I have pretty decent fermenters and temp control. This is probably the biggest thing that differentiates homebrewers from commercial. there is also a significant economy of scale.
I have been making beer professionally for ~16 years and i have a degree in this stuff, but I would never claim to be a brewmaster. It takes a long time to figure out your gear and your process(i have 215 batches in this building and probably over 1000 in other places. I am still working on improving my process). In all of those years and batches i have seen and done most of the fuck ups you can picture and learned from them.
--off flavors training is important.
--100% the most important thing is cleaning. i spend 97% of my working day cleaning something.
--Take impeccable notes and write EVERYTHING down for future reference. Tasting notes, color, foam all of it. also take notes as the beer ages and then after it is off draft think about how you could have improved it.
--nail down your temp control.
--work off manufacturer recommendations.
--understand that there is always room for improvement and that you will never know everything, but constantly try to learn more.
--if you dont know something ask.
--double or triple the $$$ you think you need for the business.
--dump beer that isnt to your standard, it is better to run out then lose a customer to shitty product.
All of that said, You can make very very good beer quickly, but you have to know what you are doing.
what is this lagering thing you speak of??? it sounds very foreign...
@Mastoras007
While i am flattered, i am probably not the best inspiration. I dont have a choice on the timeframes, i can assure you a 6 month lager is going to be FAR better then my 10 day lager. Spunding helps a lot, but that requires more then a bucket. Generally speaking time is your friend. I always shoot for repeating gravities before i crash a beer...i also cap the tank and track the pressure build up to just confirm that its not slowly dropping still(building some pressure over my work day)
I have pretty decent fermenters and temp control. This is probably the biggest thing that differentiates homebrewers from commercial. there is also a significant economy of scale.
I have been making beer professionally for ~16 years and i have a degree in this stuff, but I would never claim to be a brewmaster. It takes a long time to figure out your gear and your process(i have 215 batches in this building and probably over 1000 in other places. I am still working on improving my process). In all of those years and batches i have seen and done most of the fuck ups you can picture and learned from them.
--off flavors training is important.
--100% the most important thing is cleaning. i spend 97% of my working day cleaning something.
--Take impeccable notes and write EVERYTHING down for future reference. Tasting notes, color, foam all of it. also take notes as the beer ages and then after it is off draft think about how you could have improved it.
--nail down your temp control.
--work off manufacturer recommendations.
--understand that there is always room for improvement and that you will never know everything, but constantly try to learn more.
--if you dont know something ask.
--double or triple the $$$ you think you need for the business.
--dump beer that isnt to your standard, it is better to run out then lose a customer to shitty product.
All of that said, You can make very very good beer quickly, but you have to know what you are doing.
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wen the time comes, i will not do experiments, i hope my temp control system will help, because now as you said my old refrigarator an bucket don't work well, i thing winter time (wen i use heat than cold) i have very good control of tempreture, now can't control it good, many times temp jumping out of range, probably another reason for not good fermentathion, jumping from 19 to 21 then back to 19
Hop 1 day reach your half batches,
Btw just yesterday i oldered my chiller, 11kw of cooling, probably will connect it to a buffer tank, mentaining temp 12-13 celsius for fermentors, but for bbt will take cooling direct from chiller at -5 to -3
what tempreture do you use for cooling the tanks? i mean glycol temperature, if the glycol is to low will shock the yeast?
My chiller runs at -1c. Shouldn't need to have different temps.
You really need to research how to setup a glycol system if you are doing it yourself. Its not just a simple circuit. We build our drops and such, but there is alot that goes into it.
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You should be able to keep your ambient temps within 3 degrees F. That is how I learned to set the refrigerator controller.
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Do you use buffer tank?
Or chiller directly connected to fermentors?
there is a name for this...i think it is hysteresis??? essentially your solenoid will open when the temp exceedes a certain setpoint...say .1C and will shut off when your tank temp hits the setpoint. your actual temp will continue to fall a little bit which means you need to adjust it so that it doesnt open for too long or too short. mine varies depending on if i have a double batch in the tank or a single. double batch of about 4.5bbls worth of liquid into a 3.5 bbl CCV...very full lol.
your chiller should have a reservoir, but your lines also act like a reservoir. you need a hot loop and a cold loop for your glycol. it is fairly complicated to get right. you have to balance the whole system with restriction on the hot line heading back to the chiller. everything has to be HEAVILY insulated and the pipe/hose you use HAS to be rated for the temps. different types of pipes get squirely at low low temps like this. We used Schedule 80 1.25 pvc with plastic threaded nips and close cell rubber insulation glued and taped. the type of thread tape/pipe dope must be rated for glycol and it all has to be food grade. the actual glycol needs a rust inhibitor and needs to be between 25 and 35% concentration or you loose efficiency and can overwork your gear.
add ball valves and shutoffs EVERYWHERE, every drop has one on the input and output, we added ts with several ball valves so we could use either our line chiller or our main glycol for the draft system as its a long draw(80ft push). we can even crash a tank with our line chiller if our main system is down(at the expense of not pouring beer(overnight), and have room to add an additional pump to boost the flowrate and cooling if needed.
ystrainers are needed on the line going back to the glycol chiller. you will need ball valves on both sides of the y strainer. you may also consider mechanical solenoids instead of diapham solenoids. EVERYTHING needs to be accessible and serviceable. if you can put the solenoid within reach it is best.
everything needs to be sealed and washdown rated. everything will sweat badly and that can kill the solenoid connections quickly which can cause lost beer.
food grade glycol with rust inhibitor is very expensive, as is all of the gear involved. we have a fairly small chiller and it was $18k before glycol and plumbing. line chiller was $5k. this is very very important.
This is a very important and fairly complicated topic man.
https://prochiller.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/glycol-guide.pdf
This topic is likely beyond most homebrewer setups. not trying to be a dick but this is falling squarely into pro brewer/buildout questions.
https://discussions.probrewer.com/f...rigeration-q-a/53145-glycol-system-setup-help
these guys are probably more qualified to help with this, but they are also not as inviting as this forum in my experience.
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Ha! And you say you’re not a master brewer?
Got me fooled. That’s a short masterclass in Glycol.
lol i mean i have built a few breweries from the ground up? Used to teach industrial maintenance specifically dealing with refrigerated shipping containers...480v is not be fucked with...
you remember southbound brewing company?
