Step Mashing issues

Our water authority puts out an annual report with the water for each of the major reservoirs and the expected mix. They're all very good, so I haven't done a test, but I'd suggest it's a worthwhile step if you don't have a similar information source for your area.

There's a few possibilities that may give you good drinkable water but make it a bit harder to do blond or dark beers. Not something to really worry about early on though. As long as your doing something to get rid of chlorine or chloramines. I'd wait until you're comfortable with your average brew day as long as you're getting beer you're happy with.
Mark, thanks for the tip and advice, regards Steve
 
Well everyone, I kegged my beer on Saturday and did a quick carb and today I tried the blonde ale. It still needs a bit more carbonation but overall it was pretty good, no bad tastes, had a nice aroma and tasted like beer. I guess for my first attempt I can't complain. Thanks for all the tips and help. Second batch is going to be a NEIPA recipe I got from a local brewery store. Tonight I am RHAHB!
 

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Well everyone, I kegged my beer on Saturday and did a quick carb and today I tried the blonde ale. It still needs a bit more carbonation but overall it was pretty good, no bad tastes, had a nice aroma and tasted like beer. I guess for my first attempt I can't complain. Thanks for all the tips and help. Second batch is going to be a NEIPA recipe I got from a local brewery store. Tonight I am RHAHB!
Congrats!!
 
So, currently, in the Sydney commercial brewing scene, there is debate amongst brewers about mashing out. I'm not gonna name names, but there is one HUGE brewery that doesn't, and the rest of us are like, wtf? But I guess if you know your process that is all that matters.

My opinion?

I mash out always on the grainfather, or commercially, never with BIAB.

When I mash out on the grainfather, I do 10 mins at 78, whatever that is in C. (I'm American, but refuse to go back to Imperial lol)

I'm with whomever said the entire grainbed won't be 78. I go to 78, set a timer for 10 mins, and lock in the flavour profile. It also helps with efficiency IMO.

And with step mashing, I don't really do it, but if we're making a classic style (we just made an amazing Märzen) we step mash

Also, with classic styles like Märzens, the colour actually comes from a long boil, not a crystal adjunct malt.
 
So, currently, in the Sydney commercial brewing scene, there is debate amongst brewers about mashing out. I'm not gonna name names, but there is one HUGE brewery that doesn't, and the rest of us are like, wtf? But I guess if you know your process that is all that matters.

My opinion?

I mash out always on the grainfather, or commercially, never with BIAB.

When I mash out on the grainfather, I do 10 mins at 78, whatever that is in C. (I'm American, but refuse to go back to Imperial lol)

I'm with whomever said the entire grainbed won't be 78. I go to 78, set a timer for 10 mins, and lock in the flavour profile. It also helps with efficiency IMO.

And with step mashing, I don't really do it, but if we're making a classic style (we just made an amazing Märzen) we step mash

Also, with classic styles like Märzens, the colour actually comes from a long boil, not a crystal adjunct malt.
Thanks for the post, I think for now i will continue doing the mash out for 10 minutes.
 
I brewed my second batch yesterday, it was a NEIPA, it went fairly smooth, after my first batch and mistakes..lol The only issue I had was the Grainfather G30 wouldn't come up to boil temp which was 212 F. It got to 211 but I did notice the rolling boil s0 after about 5 minutes I switched to 211 and moved forward. Using 110 volts certainly has its drawbacks, but in this case it may be I need to change the boil temp to 211 for future automatic brews. I am hoping the beer comes out as good or better than my first beer. Everyone who tasted my beer said its tastes like beer and was quite good. I gave a lot away better than me drinking it all. LOL
 
It got to 211 but I did notice the rolling boil s0 after about 5 minutes I switched to 211 and moved forward.
Water boils at 212 at sea level. I am at 1000' above sea level and water boils at 210. I set my brewzilla at 212 and it boils. Never reaches 212 but who cares?
 
And there's a massive list of pros and cons on vigorous vs calm boils (and even no boil). I can't decide between them so I go with whatever the system I'm using gives me on it's default settings. At least I've got repeatability covered.
 
And there's a massive list of pros and cons on vigorous vs calm boils (and even no boil). I can't decide between them so I go with whatever the system I'm using gives me on it's default settings. At least I've got repeatability covered.

I've read a bit of no boil also, I think the next big batch I do, ill try a second running of the grain and give it a try, not much to lose? Great thread!!
 
And there's a massive list of pros and cons on vigorous vs calm boils (and even no boil). I can't decide between them so I go with whatever the system I'm using gives me on it's default settings. At least I've got repeatability covered.
yeah, I'm with you 100%, boils probably matter and can be utilised for different aspects, but I wouldn't worry too much about it

Commercial level, we actually calm our boil down a bit. Our elements can hit 101 C no problem
 
Not to switch gears on the boil issue, but I am having the same issue with my second batch on fermentation. No activity in the air lock! I have the SS Brewtech brew bucket 7 gallon and I am wondering if any knows if this is an known issue with this fermenter. I replaced the lid gasket, I sprayed star san solution all around the lid and air lock and saw no indication of a leak! I contacted SS Brewtech on Tuesday but nothing yet. Again, I took a gravity reading on my NEIPA and the OG was 1.051 and after three days its 1.025 so I think fermentation is happening. Another thing is when I touch the top lid of the bucket, the star san in the air lock bubbles a few times and rises then drops down, which I think means there is CO2 between the liquid and the air lock but its just not getting to the air lock sitting idle. Just checking if anyone else has encountered this issue. Thanks!
 
I sprayed star san solution all around the lid and air lock and saw no indication of a leak!

and after three days its 1.025
So it is definitely fermenting.

At the pressures involved (0.02 psi), starsan will not indicate a leak. The leak (there absolutely is one) is not fast enough.

After the fermenter is empty, use a solution of dish soap and water, and pressurize the insides of the fermenter with your mouth, blowing into a tube inserted into the airlock hole. With that pressure, and the soap (which is more effective at bubbles) you will find it.

You might do this before the fermenter is empty, but you do risk getting soap into your beer. I don't recommend it.
 
yeah, don't become obsessed with the airlock, a lot of fermentation can happen without "bubbles". @Donoroto is 100% right, there DEFINITELY is a leak somewhere, but it is a small one slowly leaking the CO2.

The seals can be tricky to get 100% airtight, and to me, doesn't matter too much. However, there will be possible Oxygen contact if the fermentation gets slow enough
 
So it is definitely fermenting.

At the pressures involved (0.02 psi), starsan will not indicate a leak. The leak (there absolutely is one) is not fast enough.

After the fermenter is empty, use a solution of dish soap and water, and pressurize the insides of the fermenter with your mouth, blowing into a tube inserted into the airlock hole. With that pressure, and the soap (which is more effective at bubbles) you will find it.

You might do this before the fermenter is empty, but you do risk getting soap into your beer. I don't recommend it.

Thank you, I will try that, SS Brewtech got back to me and said I need to do some lid clamp adjustment using two screwdrivers and basically bending the clamps to to get them to fasten tighter and more even. I will see if I can find the leak first before I attempt this. I had to do a dry hop on the NEIPA last night and I cracked the lid and dropped in the hop sock and there was foam everywhere so it seems to be fermenting.
 
Could be around your stopper.
Thanks, I ordered new stoppers they are are a weird size for the brew bucket, but I did spray star san around the stopper and pushed on the lid and saw no bubbles around the stopper, but I guess the leak could be slow enough to not really be able to see!
 
So it is definitely fermenting.

At the pressures involved (0.02 psi), starsan will not indicate a leak. The leak (there absolutely is one) is not fast enough.

After the fermenter is empty, use a solution of dish soap and water, and pressurize the insides of the fermenter with your mouth, blowing into a tube inserted into the airlock hole. With that pressure, and the soap (which is more effective at bubbles) you will find it.

You might do this before the fermenter is empty, but you do risk getting soap into your beer. I don't recommend it.
As usual I appreciate your insight and quick response! Thank you
 
Water boils at 212 at sea level. I am at 1000' above sea level and water boils at 210. I set my brewzilla at 212 and it boils. Never reaches 212 but who cares?
You can break a lot of laws, but you cannot break the laws of physics.
 
Well brew number #2 is complete, tasted my NEIPA after a couple days of a quick carb. It tasted pretty good, good tongue feel not to hoppy, I used Sabra in the boil at 60 and 30 mins and then again at flame out. I added Simcoe to the boil and and El Dorado at 5 days into fermentation. It's got a nice taste, kind of feels hazy on the tongue...lol My only issue is I didn't do a complete closed transfer but did the best I could and purged before and after keg was filled. I added a pic of the first glass and right after my first taste. I got the parts I need now for a closed transfer so may give that a whirl next time. Again thanks for all the help and responses to my posts. Hoppy Halloween!
 

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