Meh. It's fermenting, and it will beer. The rest is details.Yes you may be right I was going to spray Star San around the bottom of the lid to see if there was a leak, but havent done that yet.
Meh. It's fermenting, and it will beer. The rest is details.Yes you may be right I was going to spray Star San around the bottom of the lid to see if there was a leak, but havent done that yet.
Those buckets don't usually leak. Unless there was something between the gasket and the bucket rim.It's also possible that there's a small leak somewhere, the CO2 is getting out some way that doesn't include the airlock.
I checked gravity after 4 days, the OG was 1.042 and when I checked it after 4 days it was 1.035 so I assumed the yeast may have been working but not very aggressively.
Mark listed.podcast
You can skip the mash-out at our scale. We heat our wort so quickly the remaining enzymes can't do much before they're denatured.I would agree that you may have lost some viable yeast cells when you added the yeast but it sounds like it is still working at it. Some great information provided about Mash out, one of the questions I still struggle with. I try mash out at 168 to 170 but I am still learning. Looking forward to listening to the Mark listed.
You can skip the mash-out at our scale. We heat our wort so quickly the remaining enzymes can't do much before they're denatured.
I think you need to ask yourself what the purpose of mash-out is.
That's what the sparge does.helped get the sugar away from the grains easier.
Exactly.I think you need to ask yourself what the purpose of mash-out is.
We mash to activate certain enzymes in the grain. We limit mash times (say, 60 or 90 minutes) to limit just what these enzymes we've unleashed can do. Mash-out heats these enzymes and denatures (deactivates) them.
In a big brewery, the time it takes to get the wort from the grain into the boil is long, tens of minutes to hours. Mash-out is important there, because those enzymes continue to work, and they must be stopped.
In our little breweries, the time is minutes to boil, so mash-out is unnecessary. We'll have our wort drained and above 170F well before the enzymes can get us into trouble.
I suppose the other side of the mash out coin is that it's almost impossible for it to cause any problems and depending on your grains and setup it may help with the sparge and extraction a bit.I would agree that you may have lost some viable yeast cells when you added the yeast but it sounds like it is still working at it. Some great information provided about Mash out, one of the questions I still struggle with. I try mash out at 168 to 170 but I am still learning. Looking forward to listening to the Mark listed.
Edit: except for fly sparging with water that isn't pH adjusted, then it can be a contributor to problems.
That's area that is fairly easy to adjust. Adding some acid to the sparge water will keep the pH in check. Even with R/O or distilled water the mash pH will rise during the sparge.Edit: except for fly sparging with water that isn't pH adjusted, then it can be a contributor to problems.
Don't worry about using my post for other discussions, we all learn from these points and counter points.Well, I always thought the mash-out was several fold. I assumed the higher temperature helped keep things flowing easier, shut down the enzymes, and helped get the sugar away from the grains easier.
I am to the point now where I am trying to figure out if everything is working as best as it can and where I can improve. In the end almost all of my batches end up with an OG a few points lower than expected. Something normally in the range of getting 1.063 when the recipe calls for 1.068. The software shows that I am hitting 98% and above for conversion and pre-boil OGs consistently now, with my end kettle numbers around 92%. Of course all of this raises a dozen more questions, like correctly setting the efficiency in the recipe editor, all the equipment settings, and where I can improve in my process.
Thanks everyone for the comments, didn't plan to highjack Steve's post. Just happy I have enough spare time to read though everything.
Mark, that is another question I was thinking about, water treatment. Do you you treat your water or just go by the taste. I have a reverse osmosis system on my tap water with three filters and the water has no after taste at all so I use it right out of the tap for my boil and sparge. I haven't had my water tested but was considering doing that?? ThanksI suppose the other side of the mash out coin is that it's almost impossible for it to cause any problems and depending on your grains and setup it may help with the sparge and extraction a bit.
Edit: except for fly sparging with water that isn't pH adjusted, then it can be a contributor to problems.
I use EZ water spreadsheet. I also use RO water and this allows you set up a profile for a specific beer style.Mark, that is another question I was thinking about, water treatment. Do you you treat your water or just go by the taste. I have a reverse osmosis system on my tap water with three filters and the water has no after taste at all so I use it right out of the tap for my boil and sparge. I haven't had my water tested but was considering doing that?? Thanks
I have a reverse osmosis system on my tap water with three filters
Works here.I can believe that on a large scale. But doing 5gal batches, RO works
Our water authority puts out an annual report with the water for each of the major reservoirs and the expected mix. They're all very good, so I haven't done a test, but I'd suggest it's a worthwhile step if you don't have a similar information source for your area.Mark, that is another question I was thinking about, water treatment. Do you you treat your water or just go by the taste. I have a reverse osmosis system on my tap water with three filters and the water has no after taste at all so I use it right out of the tap for my boil and sparge. I haven't had my water tested but was considering doing that?? Thanks