Irish Moss

Hman1962

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I have been using Irish Moss for a few brew sessions and I'm not sure if it is working or not. I do have a question to make sure I am using it correctly. I have added it for the last 15 minutes of the boil. These have been extract recipes, with grains that I need to steep. After the boil when I transfer it to the FermTank, the wort goes through a screen in the kettle, as well as another screen and this. https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/nylon-hop-bag-8-x-9-1-4. My question is, is the Irish Moss supposed to make it to fermentation? If so, I think it gets filtered out.
 
It doesn't need to make it to the fermentor.
Sounds like you're doing it correctly.
Cheers,
Brian
 
That's the way to do it
FYI, there is no need to do the filtering and straining when transferring to the fermenter. Everything that is in the wort belongs there. No harm will come from straining it though, as long as everything is sanitized, but there is also no benefit to the finished product from doing it either.
 
I know nothing about Irish moss as I have ever used it.
Just piping in to say Welcome to the forum
 
I always use Whirl Floc, which is made from Irish Moss and I do see a benefit. Last time I brewed without it (I ran out) the resulting beer was noticeably cloudier. You might want to try adding it later in the boil, say at 5 minutes and see if that helps. I mention that because I heard on a podcast (don't remember which one) that Whirl Floc and Irish Moss work work better if they are not boiled too long.
 
I have been using Irish Moss for a few brew sessions and I'm not sure if it is working or not. I do have a question to make sure I am using it correctly. I have added it for the last 15 minutes of the boil. These have been extract recipes, with grains that I need to steep. After the boil when I transfer it to the FermTank, the wort goes through a screen in the kettle, as well as another screen and this. https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/nylon-hop-bag-8-x-9-1-4. My question is, is the Irish Moss supposed to make it to fermentation? If so, I think it gets filtered out.
I think the Irish moss bits are too fine to get filtered out, at least by a screen. Certainly Whirlfloc is too fine.

What it does is get the stuff that makes beer hazy to clump up, (flocculate), which then drifts (slowly!) to the bottom of the fermenter. During active fermentation, nothing drifts down, so you need to give the process (which is purely mechanical and gravity-based) at least some days after the bubbles stop to happen.

So yes, it happens in fermentation, but starts after the boil, and you are doing it same as I do it.
 
I always use Whirl Floc, which is made from Irish Moss and I do see a benefit. Last time I brewed without it (I ran out) the resulting beer was noticeably cloudier. You might want to try adding it later in the boil, say at 5 minutes and see if that helps. I mention that because I heard on a podcast (don't remember which one) that Whirl Floc and Irish Moss work work better if they are not boiled too long.

I use WhirlFloc too - I used to add it with about 15 minutes left in the boil and it worked, but not well. I probably saw the same info as you and switched to the last 5 minutes and it works really well - getting a clear brew into the keg after a couple of weeks in the fermenter!
 
I use Irish Moss the same way you do. The first thing I do on boil day is measure out 1 teaspoon of Irish moss and put it in a small glass bowl with ~1/2 cup of warm water (stir occasionally). By the time to add to the boil, the liquid has a slimy feel you want with a polymer that will grab the small particles and accumulate them in large enough amounts to settle out during ferment. Like you, I do pour through a strainer to catch most of the hops, any grain, and the Irish Moss that has made it to that point. Home brewing is nice in that you can be a clean and particular as you like, or take the entire pot's contents to the ferment. An exception is when I add most of my hops at shutoff and do want them to go into the ferment. Remember, its your playground, your toys.
 
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Hate that stuff! Did nothing but clog my pump and get stuck in my fly sparge arm

As mentioned, whirlfloc works and it dissolves
 
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I use Irish Moss the same way you do. The first thing I do on boil day is measure out 1 teaspoon of Irish moss and put it in a small glass bowl with ~1/2 cup of warm water (stir occasionally). By the time to add to the boil, the liquid has a slimy feel you want with a polymer that will grab the small particles and accumulate them in large enough amounts to settle out during ferment. Like you, I do pour through a strainer to catch most of the hops, any grain, and the Irish Moss that has made it to that point. Home brewing is nice in that you can be a clean and particular as you like, or take the entire pot's contents to the ferment. An exception is when I add most of my hops at shutoff and do want them to go into the ferment. Remember, its your playground, your toys.
Interesting, I use whirlfloc a half tab, except when brewing a Hazy.
Would there be a benefit to dissolving It in water before adding it to the boil?
 
I crumble it in to the boil, it instantly dissolves
To date I have just popped a half tab in the boil at 15, will crumble it and add later in future and see what difference it makes
 
I hydrate it with a bit of wort and toss it in 20min before the end of the boil. It certainly does help clarity. However, the more important factors for clarity are Calcium levels to ensure a proper hot break, actually boiling vigorously enough to reach that hot break, pH levels, which should be 5.2 going into the boil, and about 5.0 coming out, and lastly, a good multi-day cold crash once FG is reached to about 28–30℉ if you can manage it, otherwise, more time will be needed for the beer to drop clear. (yeast flocculation properties are also at play here) You know you've got a good boil that will result in a clear beer when it looks like rolling egg-drop soup after the hot break.
 
I hydrate it with a bit of wort and toss it in 20min before the end of the boil. It certainly does help clarity. However, the more important factors for clarity are Calcium levels to ensure a proper hot break, actually boiling vigorously enough to reach that hot break, pH levels, which should be 5.2 going into the boil, and about 5.0 coming out, and lastly, a good multi-day cold crash once FG is reached to about 28–30℉ if you can manage it, otherwise, more time will be needed for the beer to drop clear. (yeast flocculation properties are also at play here) You know you've got a good boil that will result in a clear beer when it looks like rolling egg-drop soup after the hot break.
Thank you for your input! I just purchased a pH meter (getting delivered today) and plan on checking that going into, and coming out. And will research and start with the cold crashing.
 
Thank you for your input! I just purchased a pH meter (getting delivered today) and plan on checking that going into, and coming out. And will research and start with the cold crashing.
Remember that typically the pH meter probe needs to be kept wet. Forever. If it dries out it’s pretty much ruined.
 
dam..
I forgot to add irish moss todays brew, i always use it until now
 
thats the normal use for it! i really like whirlfloc bws, but i am currently using kick carageenan granular it seems to be working very well and is VERY concentrated...only 8-10grams into 76 galons. recommended usage is 1-6g/HL...the 5kg bag that i have should last me for the next 10-12 years.
 

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