Hello from Minnesota.

[Hman1962]

Hello everybody. New to brewing as of 2/2025. Started with ordering an Extract recipe kit from NB, and have slowly added/upgraded equipment. Purchased a used Gigawort off of FB Marketplace, and other equipment. I will be moving to all grain sometime this winter. Have been researching AIO systems, and think I will be going with the Anvil Foundry 10.5 system. I have attached a water testing report that I had done. Let me know if there is anything I need to worry/take care of. I have about 6 Extract kits to brew before I move to All Grain.


Any advise will be appreciated!

Howie

 

[Limey]

Welcome to the madness! I will say - don't be afraid of going all-grain - especially with the Anvil Foundry it is no where near as hard as you may think. I have 27 brews on mine, but do try to get a 220v outlet for it - it works MUCH better on 220! I tend to brew beers that are moderate in alcohol (4 to 5% ABV) and haven't had a problem with the grain basket, but I know some have issues when going with a BIG grain load! You will also hear horror stories about the small pump that comes with the Anvil - it works fine. If it stops working, take it apart (4 screws and one snap ring), pull out the rotor, spray with WD-40, wipe dry and re-assemble! I have had to do this twice in 4 years - not exactly a big problem!

 

[vinobrew]

It looks like you are in Coon Rapids? Have you considered joining the Minnesota Homebrewers Association https://mnbrewers.com/ or St. Paul Homebrew Club https://sphbc.org/ ? Both clubs have great leadership that will help new and beginning brewers learn. Typically, they will also have Big Brew days, where you can follow along step by step with someone as they brew up a batch. Monthly meetings for me were "can't miss" and there are typically holiday events where people share food and of course their latest brew. I've tasted some of the best homebrew at these events and got great ideas about future brews to make. The leap for me into all-grain wasn't that daunting. I was doing BIAB, which cut a lot of the hassle. A good start on getting your water profile done. By using the water tools in BF, this will help you dial in your mash pH.

 

[Dave Y]

Welcome to the forum!

Are you looking at the 10.5 for its 110v capability? If you’re going 220v, I’d strongly consider the Anvil 18. You can easily brew 5 gallon batches in it - I do more often than not and if you’re so inclined, 10 gallon batches. regardless, get the stainless spigot strainer to keep debris out of the recirculation.

See: https://www.brewersfriend.com/forum/threads/all-in-one-brewhouse-help-thread.17832/

I never had a problem with the stock anvil recirculation pump, but it’s not what you’d call strong. I picked up a blichmann riptide this year and it rocks. It’s a ton easier to adjust flow, and when you want to whirlpool or use a clean in place valve, it works really well. Pricey, but works.

Your water has a few values higher than normal...
Ca, hardness, bicarbonate, chloride and alkalinity w/ pH weighing in about 7.8

Chloride concerns me the most, it’s 3x my community well water.

I think the biggest thing that helped me was using a refractometer to assess the mash. Once I started using the refractometer, and extending my mash time until it was actually finished, things started coming together nicely.

 

[Donoroto]

That water is great for brewing, no real issues with it: moderate calcium, chloride and sulphate, no iron or other troubles.

I think you will like the anvil, good machine.

The biggest difference between extract and all grain is the mash process, which is basically just soaking crushed grain in hot water at a specific temperature, like 152 F, for about an hour. After that step, it is just like extract.

All grain is nothing to fear, it is quite difficult to screw up.

 

[Ward Chillington]

All grain is nothing to fear, it is quite difficult to screw up.

Heyya Hman...welcome to the clubhouse and like Don said, don't fear the all grain...it like brewing coffee only different!
What's your next brew?

 

[Josh Hughes]

Welcome to the forum!

 

[Craigerrr]

Wel omega to Brewers Friend!
I would also recommend the bigger unit.
I have a Brewzilla 35. it is a nice little machine, but it truly is not an all in one.

 

[Donoroto]

A ‘most in one’ perhaps.

 

[Hman1962]

Welcome to the forum!

Are you looking at the 10.5 for its 110v capability? If you’re going 220v, I’d strongly consider the Anvil 18. You can easily brew 5 gallon batches in it - I do more often than not and if you’re so inclined, 10 gallon batches. regardless, get the stainless spigot strainer to keep debris out of the recirculation.

See: https://www.brewersfriend.com/forum/threads/all-in-one-brewhouse-help-thread.17832/

I never had a problem with the stock anvil recirculation pump, but it’s not what you’d call strong. I picked up a blichmann riptide this year and it rocks. It’s a ton easier to adjust flow, and when you want to whirlpool or use a clean in place valve, it works really well. Pricey, but works.

Your water has a few values higher than normal...
Ca, hardness, bicarbonate, chloride and alkalinity w/ pH weighing in about 7.8

Chloride concerns me the most, it’s 3x my community well water.

I think the biggest thing that helped me was using a refractometer to assess the mash. Once I started using the refractometer, and extending my mash time until it was actually finished, things started coming together nicely.

Thank you for the reply. I will be going 220v. I will look at the Anvil 18. The water sample that I had tested was through this filter

https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/carbon-water-filtration-system-w-10-water-filter


I was running the faucet full force. Looking at the description on the page it says "If the water is drawn slowly through the filter, the filter can also remove chloramines, which cannot be boiled off." I don't know much about this so I am wondering if I should send a different sample but this time run the faucet slower?

It looks like you are in Coon Rapids? Have you considered joining the Minnesota Homebrewers Association https://mnbrewers.com/ or St. Paul Homebrew Club https://sphbc.org/ ? Both clubs have great leadership that will help new and beginning brewers learn. Typically, they will also have Big Brew days, where you can follow along step by step with someone as they brew up a batch. Monthly meetings for me were "can't miss" and there are typically holiday events where people share food and of course their latest brew. I've tasted some of the best homebrew at these events and got great ideas about future brews to make. The leap for me into all-grain wasn't that daunting. I was doing BIAB, which cut a lot of the hassle. A good start on getting your water profile done. By using the water tools in BF, this will help you dial in your mash pH.

Thank you for the link to the Minnesota Homebrewers Association. I will be joining!

That water is great for brewing, no real issues with it: moderate calcium, chloride and sulphate, no iron or other troubles.

I think you will like the anvil, good machine.

The biggest difference between extract and all grain is the mash process, which is basically just soaking crushed grain in hot water at a specific temperature, like 152 F, for about an hour. After that step, it is just like extract.

All grain is nothing to fear, it is quite difficult to screw up.

I will be goin All grain sooner than later!

Heyya Hman...welcome to the clubhouse and like Don said, don't fear the all grain...it like brewing coffee only different!
What's your next brew?

I am thinking this: https://www.northernbrewer.com/collections/extract-kits/products/nightfall-black-saison-recipe-kit
Or
https://www.northernbrewer.com/collections/extract-kits/products/kentucky-common-extract-recipe-kit

Welcome to the madness! I will say - don't be afraid of going all-grain - especially with the Anvil Foundry it is no where near as hard as you may think. I have 27 brews on mine, but do try to get a 220v outlet for it - it works MUCH better on 220! I tend to brew beers that are moderate in alcohol (4 to 5% ABV) and haven't had a problem with the grain basket, but I know some have issues when going with a BIG grain load! You will also hear horror stories about the small pump that comes with the Anvil - it works fine. If it stops working, take it apart (4 screws and one snap ring), pull out the rotor, spray with WD-40, wipe dry and re-assemble! I have had to do this twice in 4 years - not exactly a big problem!

Going 220v all the way!


Thanks Everyone for the replies! I am learning a lot by reading through all the posts here!

 

[Dave Y]

Thank you for the reply. I will be going 220v. I will look at the Anvil 18. The water sample that I had tested was through this filter

https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/carbon-water-filtration-system-w-10-water-filter


I was running the faucet full force. Looking at the description on the page it says "If the water is drawn slowly through the filter, the filter can also remove chloramines, which cannot be boiled off." I don't know much about this so I am wondering if I should send a different sample but this time run the faucet slower?

This is one reason I went to the R/O system; it attaches to my hose bib, I ran a hose to my outside garage and connected the adapter for the R/O filter input to it with a shut off valve there, and inside. When I want to brew, I hook up the R/O dongle and float valve, turn the water on, hit up the hard pars with some star san, wash them off with the r/o water, affix the lid to the kettle and check on it through the day. I typically fill with 14-15 gallons set to either 7 or 7.5 gallons in 2 separate kettles - the Anvil 18, mash and boil, and the anvil 10.5 for sparging. I use b/f to calculate the basic numbers for what I’m trying to do, usually right back to my home water profile, and some pH adjustment, then I separate the water for mashing and sparging. I always need to make minor pH adjustments but it’s much closer than my tap and r/o water pH of 7.0.

For years I did the filtered water into a gallon jug, and schlepped that into the brewery but that was a PITA.
As for the filter, I was going to go with a sediment/carbon filter, but for the remote setup, it was just as expensive as the r/o water and R/O is a known quantity and frequently used in crafting/documenting recipes.

You can always split the difference and do a partial mash brew ! Extracts for simplicity and get your feet wet with the partial mash. You’ll get good beer either way if you pay attention to the details.

 

[Craigerrr]

You want to remove ALL of any chlorine, or chloromine sir. Chloromine just means the water has been treated with a mixture of chlorine and ammonia, which is more stable than just chlorine. Chlorine will make your beer taste yuckie

 

[Craigerrr]

For the extra $4 per batch I use RO water from the water place. To get the desired ion levels I add calcium chloride, gypsum, epsom, salt (canning/pickling salt not iodized), and baking soda. The software here can help you determine the amounts needed. For extract batches, just straight up RO water is fineno need to add anything for that.

 

[Hman1962]

For the extra $4 per batch I use RO water from the water place. To get the desired ion levels I add calcium chloride, gypsum, epsom, salt (canning/pickling salt not iodized), and baking soda. The software here can help you determine the amounts needed. For extract batches, just straight up RO water is fineno need to add anything for that.

I can see that a RO system purchase is at the top of my list now!

 

[Donoroto]

on the page it says "If the water is drawn slowly through the filter, the filter can also remove chloramines, which cannot be boiled off." I don't know much about this so I am wondering if I should send

1. No need for another test.
2. Use 1/2 of a Campden tablet (sodium metabisulphate or potassium metabisulphate, smb or pmb for short) in 5 to 10 gallons, and that will remove all chlorine and chloramine in a second or two. One tablet is less than a gram, and inexpensive.

Start with your water. If the beer comes out fine, keep using it. Only when you run into troubles, or need something special for a particular recipe, it’s cheap enough to buy RO or distilled water at the market.

 

[NorthCoastBrewer]

Any advise will be appreciated!

Are you aware of the two (yes two) physical home brew stores in Plymouth (Beer Meister) and Rogers (MN Homebrew Supply)? Both have (or plan to have) online ordering as well. link: https://www.beermeister.com/ link: https://www.mnhomebrew.com/

 

[Craigerrr]

I can see that a RO system purchase is at the top of my list now!

Or not, I have no plans to myself, low cost and convenient to purchase have the water, at least for me

 

[Hman1962]

You want to remove ALL of any chlorine, or chloromine sir. Chloromine just means the water has been treated with a mixture of chlorine and ammonia, which is more stable than just chlorine. Chlorine will make your beer taste yuckie

I work in the Maintenance Department of a Hospital, and I brought in a sample of water that I ran through the water filter slowly this time. The Engineer tested it and it came back .04 ppl. Would this be acceptable for when I move to All Grain?

 

[Dave Y]

Back when I started brewing I used tap water. Large, urban county processed water with all the chemicals. While i was able to brew some good beers, I never got a correct or complete final gravity. Filtered water did better, but still wasn’t perfect. When I used store bought water, I was able to hit final gravity unless I made some other error. Moving out of the large, urban county with their ultra processed water improved brewing significantly.

I would say if you don’t have the space or infrastructure available, store bought water is a viable choice that will help you minimize at least that variable. You may have some variance in the water quality, but it should be minor and you shouldn’t have anywhere near the difficult chemicals.

 

[Sandy Feet]

I use bottled spring water. For 5 gallons beer (8 gallons of water) it isn't that expensive for a hobby. If the batches were bigger, it would be. For extract, it would be cheaper. Whatever the mineral content of my Ocala sourced water, it works very well for beer. I use the shit in everything I make.
I'm also spoiled now using it for coffee.