Crankin' up the stove again

[Brewer #461446]

Howdy, all.

I'd been brewing partial-mash recipes for a while on my stove, most recently in the Bay Area (shout out to Oak Barrel Winecraft in Berkeley). I moved to Dundee, Scotland three years ago though, and haven't had the space to brew again until recently.

I picked up a used Grainfather 30l and Brew Bucket on FB, copped a few crates of empty bottles from a nearby pub that closed, and got the rest of my gear online (no homebrew shops in Dundee, sadly). This Saturday I plan to clean and fire this Franken-setup to brew a Sierra Nevada clone, and am looking forward to seeing how brewing all-grain differs from extract brewing. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Nice to be here.

 

[Dave Y]

Welcome to forum.
We opened up an “all in one” how to discussion a while back, and it’s got some usable tips for all in one systems and some are portable to other brewing methods.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/forum/threads/all-in-one-brewhouse-help-thread.17832/

The big change is getting the extraction from your grains, which you didn’t have to do as an extract brewer and partial mashing doesn’t really rely on extraction as critically as you will now.

 

[Donoroto]

I suggest before brewing the first batch, brew hot water. Then calibrate the temperature probe in the Brewzilla to make your life easier. Mine is set to show 9 F lower than the actual reading, and the temperature center of the grain bed agrees perfectly with the Brewzilla display.

And note that while recirculation during the mash really helps efficiency, you will almost certainly be unable to recirc at full throttle, the grain does not let that much liquid move that fast.

 

[Brewer #461446]

Welcome to forum.
We opened up an “all in one” how to discussion a while back, and it’s got some usable tips for all in one systems and some are portable to other brewing methods.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/forum/threads/all-in-one-brewhouse-help-thread.17832/

The big change is getting the extraction from your grains, which you didn’t have to do as an extract brewer and partial mashing doesn’t really rely on extraction as critically as you will now

Thanks for the link to the other forum topic.

I've just looked up refractometers, as I have only been using hydrometers up until now. A refractometer seems like a more precise tool, and easier to use as well.

Cheers.

 

[Brewer #461446]

I suggest before brewing the first batch, brew hot water. Then calibrate the temperature probe in the Brewzilla to make your life easier. Mine is set to show 9 F lower than the actual reading, and the temperature center of the grain bed agrees perfectly with the Brewzilla display.

And note that while recirculation during the mash really helps efficiency, you will almost certainly be unable to recirc at full throttle, the grain does not let that much liquid move that fast.

Spot on - I will be running myself through the paces by brewing up a tasty batch of hot water on the first go-round. Thanks heaps.

 

[Donoroto]

Thanks for the link to the other forum topic.

I've just looked up refractometers, as I have only been using hydrometers up until now. A refractometer seems like a more precise tool, and easier to use as well.

Cheers.

Until there is alcohol, a refractometer is great. It gets incorrect when alcohol is present. I have a $25 Amazon special that works well.

 

[Craigerrr]

Thanks for the link to the other forum topic.

I've just looked up refractometers, as I have only been using hydrometers up until now. A refractometer seems like a more precise tool, and easier to use as well.

Cheers.

Welcome to the forum!

Nothing wrong with a hydrometer, except the need to cool a relatively large volume of wort to get a good reading on brew day. I use a refractometer on brew day, and a hydrometer to confirm that fermentation is complete.

 

[Craigerrr]

Spot on - I will be running myself through the paces by brewing up a tasty batch of hot water on the first go-round. Thanks heaps.

Unlike Don, fortunately, I have never had to adjust my temperature calibration

 

[Brewer #461446]

I appreciate all the advice.

Honestly, I've been a pretty lackadaisical extract brewer*, sometimes not even taking hydrometer readings once I'm comfortable with a particular recipe. I'm aware than stepping things up into all-grain territory is going to require that I ditch the flip-flops for work boots, so to speak, but I'm ready for the challenge. Just have to tool up a little.

Looking forward to having more control over how my brew turns out.

*More from the school of Charlie Papazian than John Palmer, if that makes sense.

 

[Zambi]

I appreciate all the advice.

Honestly, I've been a pretty lackadaisical extract brewer*, sometimes not even taking hydrometer readings once I'm comfortable with a particular recipe. I'm aware than stepping things up into all-grain territory is going to require that I ditch the flip-flops for work boots, so to speak, but I'm ready for the challenge. Just have to tool up a little.

Looking forward to having more control over how my brew turns out.

*More from the school of Charlie Papazian than John Palmer, if that makes sense.

Nah, dont worry too much.
Mashing, yes.
Get your temperature right, but thereafter ..
I'm not worried if my beer is 4.8 or 5.3 %..
I can't replicated it anyway. Not got the set up to do so

 

[Donoroto]

I appreciate all the advice.

Honestly, I've been a pretty lackadaisical extract brewer*, sometimes not even taking hydrometer readings once I'm comfortable with a particular recipe. I'm aware than stepping things up into all-grain territory is going to require that I ditch the flip-flops for work boots, so to speak, but I'm ready for the challenge. Just have to tool up a little.

Looking forward to having more control over how my brew turns out.

*More from the school of Charlie Papazian than John Palmer, if that makes sense.

Relaxed brewing is sustainable brewing. Repeatability is adherence to process, not necessarily more than that. Don’t make it a chore.

 

[Dave Y]

Until there is alcohol, a refractometer is great. It gets incorrect when alcohol is present. I have a $25 Amazon special that works well.

Agreed!

Welcome to the forum!

Nothing wrong with a hydrometer, except the need to cool a relatively large volume of wort to get a good reading on brew day. I use a refractometer on brew day, and a hydrometer to confirm that fermentation is complete.

^^^^
This! Right tool for the right job in each case.

 

[Dave Y]

I appreciate all the advice.

Honestly, I've been a pretty lackadaisical extract brewer*, sometimes not even taking hydrometer readings once I'm comfortable with a particular recipe. I'm aware than stepping things up into all-grain territory is going to require that I ditch the flip-flops for work boots, so to speak, but I'm ready for the challenge. Just have to tool up a little.

Looking forward to having more control over how my brew turns out.

*More from the school of Charlie Papazian than John Palmer, if that makes sense.

I want to clarify that in no way are we throwing shade for not having all the gear or the gear that we respectively have and use. Because we were all there once. I’ve made very good beer at the partial mash level with only a hydrometer, big pot and some 6.5 gallon buckets. I just added on over the years and kept at it. The things I have for brewing work well for me, but I have to be honest, it takes up a bit of space. Depending on your goals, take a look at what some of the more experienced folks here are using and decide if that will fit into your brewing plans.

HTH !

 

[Craigerrr]

Due to a back injury I went from all grain to partial mash, depending on the gravity of the beer, I may do all grain, or include 1 pound, or 2 pounds of DME. I find it a lot more relaxing using some DME in a bigger beer, my little unit gets up against the volume/mash thickness limits.
Be active on the forum, ask questions, and get to know us, we really aren't half bad!

 

[Ward Chillington]

Franken set up GOOOOD!

Welcome to the clubhouse...what's the water like there in Dundee? Are you on a well or do you have to account for treatment to the municipality provided water?

 

[Brewer #461446]

I'm using municipal water. I haven't gotten a water report from the council yet, but the water in Scotland is generally considered to be fantastic, so that's a plus.

 

[Craigerrr]

I'm using municipal water. I haven't gotten a water report from the council yet, but the water in Scotland is generally considered to be fantastic, so that's a plus.

Just make sure you deal with the chlorine, handled easily with a campden tablet, or at least part of one. Sorry, unsolicited advice, but I wish I had known that in my first handful of brews

 

[Dave Y]

I'm using municipal water. I haven't gotten a water report from the council yet, but the water in Scotland is generally considered to be fantastic, so that's a plus.

I would either buy water or invest in a R/O filter system if chlorine, fluoride and other chemicals are added to the drinking water in high quantities. I’m fortunate to be on a community well with excellent water quality, but I still have a R/O water filtration system for the brew kettle only.

Back when I was in a large, urban county, the water sucked for brewing. It was one house after I’d just started getting into brewing and I went from getting full fermentation to 1.018 - 1.022. It was the only change in my process and on a bet I brewed with store bought spring water a couple times and back to clean, full fermentation. The only exception was wheat beer with the wheat yeast strains, those I could brew and ferment well even on city water.

Good luck, hopefully you have good local water and you’ll be off to brewing in no time.

 

[Brewer #461446]

I'll get a water report from the local council before I brew, and do plan to install a water filtration system for the house eventually. I've purchased water for brewing before, but have also had fairly good results with a Britta (kinda low-rent, I know). In any case, thanks again for the advice.

 

[Donoroto]

I'll get a water report from the local council before I brew, and do plan to install a water filtration system for the house eventually. I've purchased water for brewing before, but have also had fairly good results with a Britta (kinda low-rent, I know). In any case, thanks again for the advice.

A Brita filter is actually quite good for brewing water. Just a bit slow.

The water folks generally disinfect their water using chlorine or chloramine. Sodium (or Potassium) Metabisulphate (Campden), about 1/2 gram for 20-30 liters removes both of those instantly.