Electric All In One Died - What's Next?

Chip99

Chip99

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Got my system (Hancock Brewing) on Amazon October 2024. After a dozen or so brews I thought I really had this system figured out. Hitting SG's all the time. Efficiency WAY up. Died on me today near the end of a boil which I was able to salvage. There are no reset buttons. Took the plate off the bottom and the fuses are soldered in. No way to replace.

Question, should I go to another all in one electric or opt for something else? I am very confident in the brewing process now. If this thing hadn't died on me I would continue using it as I brew 5 gallon batches about once every 2 to 3 weeks. I have great LP burners and other ways to do things so doesn't have to be electric or all in one. I just want something that will "keep on ticking". Any comments greatly appreciated... Chip
 
I would stay with the all-in-one. But, what I would do is invest in better quality equipment. I’m as guilty as the next person for using the “what’s the cheapest I can get it for” purchasing strategy for certain products. Say for instance when it comes to a tool where it will be used one time or maybe only a handful of times per year. So, I start look at Harbor Freight, Vevor, etc. However, when it comes to home brewing, it’s one of my favorite hobbies. I derive a lot of satisfaction from it so I outfitted myself with quality equipment. Plus, the frequency of my brewing gives my equipment a workout. I’ve never heard of Hancock Brewing equipment. I can’t say that’s its low quality stuff, but from what you describe, it’s probably not on the same level of Anvil Foundry, Grainfather, etc. Yes, you will pay a premium for this equipment, but along with that comes known quality, a better warranty and customer service.
 
Your "All-in-One" is now a "All-in-None". Sorry, I couldn't help myself.

If you like your all-in-one and you want to go with something new, I would stick with what you know. As Semper stated above, you may want to get something a little more high end and with replaceable parts should something goes bad with the new one.

I have a 3 vessel and have brewed on it for @ 14 years. It nice, but a little bulky. If I were to go with an all-in-one I would have to learn to brew my beers on it, but I would consider it if I had to start over. Change is hard, at least for me.
 
Semper Sitientum said:
I would stay with the all-in-one. But, what I would do is invest in better quality equipment. I’m as guilty as the next person for using the “what’s the cheapest I can get it for” purchasing strategy for certain products. Say for instance when it comes to a tool where it will be used one time or maybe only a handful of times per year. So, I start look at Harbor Freight, Vevor, etc. However, when it comes to home brewing, it’s one of my favorite hobbies. I derive a lot of satisfaction from it so I outfitted myself with quality equipment. Plus, the frequency of my brewing gives my equipment a workout. I’ve never heard of Hancock Brewing equipment. I can’t say that’s its low quality stuff, but from what you describe, it’s probably not on the same level of Anvil Foundry, Grainfather, etc. Yes, you will pay a premium for this equipment, but along with that comes known quality, a better warranty and customer service.
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Thanks for the reply. I think Hancock (purchased on Amazon) was about $275 and I would say it is on par with Vevor looking at them on Amazon. Is an Anvil Foundry really going to be that much better? My Hancock only held up for about a dozen brewing sessions over six months. Any other options folks would recommend outside the electrics? I would like to see what folks are recommending before I dive it... Chip
 
HighVoltageMan! said:
Your "All-in-One" is now a "All-in-None". Sorry, I couldn't help myself.

If you like your all-in-one and you want to go with something new, I would stick with what you know. As Semper stated above, you may want to get something a little more high end and with replaceable parts should something goes bad with the new one.

I have a 3 vessel and have brewed on it for @ 14 years. It nice, but a little bulky. If I were to go with an all-in-one I would have to learn to brew my beers on it, but I would consider it if I had to start over. Change is hard, at least for me.
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Now that I've got a dozen all in one brews under my belt I know what to do and when instinctively. My efficiencies are off the charts with re-circulation protocols. I just don't want a unit dying on me or crapping out in the middle of a boil. And you are correct, it's now an "all-in-none"... Chip
 
Chip99 said:
Now that I've got a dozen all in one brews under my belt I know what to do and when instinctively. My efficiencies are off the charts with re-circulation protocols. I just don't want a unit dying on me or crapping out in the middle of a boil. And you are correct, it's now an "all-in-none"... Chip
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Well you have to decide. You have used both systems which is a plus. Many newbies buy an all in one and never learned the process. Not sure what you mean by efficiency off the charts. I actually dialed back my conversion efficiency. I would get about 70-75% with a standard mash tun setup. Then started BIAB and tightened my crush and got 90% and noticed a difference in the body of my beer. I've since dialed it back to about 80%
 
Depends why it died. Did a fuse blow or the element die ? If it's just a fuse, then you can unsolder them and put in new ones. Heating element could be replaced too. Both things would be cheaper than a new unit
 
Brew Cat said:
Well you have to decide. You have used both systems which is a plus. Many newbies buy an all in one and never learned the process. Not sure what you mean by efficiency off the charts. I actually dialed back my conversion efficiency. I would get about 70-75% with a standard mash tun setup. Then started BIAB and tightened my crush and got 90% and noticed a difference in the body of my beer. I've since dialed it back to about 80%
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Standard efficiency is about 70-75% as you mentioned. With my re-circulation routine I'm getting 85-90 without much effort. With recirc and heating element you can keep the mash temps up in the 155 range. Without these the temp of the mash will usually sink ten degrees or more (my experience) resulting in less efficient extraction... Chip
 
Chip99 said:
Standard efficiency is about 70-75% as you mentioned. With my re-circulation routine I'm getting 85-90 without much effort. With recirc and heating element you can keep the mash temps up in the 155 range. Without these the temp of the mash will usually sink ten degrees or more (my experience) resulting in less efficient extraction... Chip
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Are you talking mash efficiency or fermentation efficiency?
You can get any system to do what you're saying. What's special about All in one is simplicity. So that should be the main reason to go All in One. And cost I suppose but not if it craps out in 2 years.
 
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How much troubleshooting are you into?

You could pull it and check for voltage with a multi-meter.
Were you using an extension cord by any chance?

I had a long running battle with my Anvil 10.5, where it would just ‘blank out’ and not restart. Upon investigation I found a fried switch. Odd, I had a dedicated 20a circuit put in just for this. It happened several more times, but the damage was done the first time. I’d run a large surge protector for an extension cord- well within the power requirements ... at least by the numbers. I tested with a multimeter and found the ground was fried on the outlet I was using, and I could see scorch marks on the receptacle just like the Anvil switch. Here’s the part that led me astray
- I checked the Anvil cord end to end and got good continuity, so the cord must be ok
New 14 gauge ext. cord, tested, same issue, fried the switch.
Ran the unit with no cord - fried the switch.
along the way, I upgraded wire in the relevant Anvil circuits, no change - well, less scorching on the switch maybe?
Finally I ordered a new power cord for the Anvil ; FIXED.

Also, the Anvil elements will overheat when they’re caked with burnt residue. Not so much a problem on a Pilsner or small session beer. But definitely a possible issue with high rye or wheat content, lots of hops or a combination of.

So it’s possible to tear into your kettle or you could get an alternate means of mashing and boiling. I’d suggest an(other) all in one system would work well for you. Anvil/Blichmann accept PayPal, including PayPal credit; 6 months to payoff with no interest. I’m sure others do too.
 
Dave Y said:
How much troubleshooting are you into?

You could pull it and check for voltage with a multi-meter.
Were you using an extension cord by any chance?

I had a long running battle with my Anvil 10.5, where it would just ‘blank out’ and not restart. Upon investigation I found a fried switch. Odd, I had a dedicated 20a circuit put in just for this. It happened several more times, but the damage was done the first time. I’d run a large surge protector for an extension cord- well within the power requirements ... at least by the numbers. I tested with a multimeter and found the ground was fried on the outlet I was using, and I could see scorch marks on the receptacle just like the Anvil switch. Here’s the part that led me astray
- I checked the Anvil cord end to end and got good continuity, so the cord must be ok
New 14 gauge ext. cord, tested, same issue, fried the switch.
Ran the unit with no cord - fried the switch.
along the way, I upgraded wire in the relevant Anvil circuits, no change - well, less scorching on the switch maybe?
Finally I ordered a new power cord for the Anvil ; FIXED.

Also, the Anvil elements will overheat when they’re caked with burnt residue. Not so much a problem on a Pilsner or small session beer. But definitely a possible issue with high rye or wheat content, lots of hops or a combination of.

So it’s possible to tear into your kettle or you could get an alternate means of mashing and boiling. I’d suggest an(other) all in one system would work well for you. Anvil/Blichmann accept PayPal, including PayPal credit; 6 months to payoff with no interest. I’m sure others do too.
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I'm an engineer so don't mind troubleshooting. I already looked at the control board. No reset switches but two fuses that are soldiered in place. Can't tell if they've been blown or not. I would like to get a better all in one. I like the footprint, built in recirculation, etc... but don't want to make a mistake getting the wrong unit and having it quit in the middle of a session or crap out permanently... Chip
 
What does everyone here think of the Grainfather? Good unit? Worth the extra price?
 
Chip99 said:
Standard efficiency is about 70-75% as you mentioned. With my re-circulation routine I'm getting 85-90 without much effort. With recirc and heating element you can keep the mash temps up in the 155 range. Without these the temp of the mash will usually sink ten degrees or more (my experience) resulting in less efficient extraction... Chip
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You can also have better control of fermtability with tight temp control
 
I have a mash and a boil and like it. I am two years in and 27 batches with not sign of slowing down. My complaints are slow heating it is the same with all 110 in all one units. You can go to a 220 unit with other options, but that requires some electric work. If 220 is possible for you that would be a good upgrade. My complaints are the grain basket volume is a little low. 10 -12 lbs it good. in the 13- 14 you lose efficency, and over 14lb starts to get harder. I think the max I have done on my unit is 17 or 18lbs, but the mash was thick, and hard to work with. The last issue is the kettle is only 8 gal. I like to end with 5+ in the keg. If I assume 5 in keg, that is 5.5 in fermenter, 6 post boil, and 6.75 pre boil. Add a little for the 5+ and have to watch pretty close to for boil overs. If I was going to buy a new all in one unit I would opt for the BrewZilla. Have not used, but what I know for a couple extra dollars you get more features, larger kettle, and more grain capacity, and you can get 220 for the same price as 110. If you are willing to spend more you can look at clawhammer, Sike solo, or Unibrau. This cost more, but you don’t have to worry about one item going out, and then the system being dead. They have replaceable parts. Keep in mind the 220 version of the BrewZilla has lower watts then the 220 version for Clawhammer, Spike, or Unibrua. I think you would be happy with any of these. As for the Grainfather, from what I know it is comparable to the BrewZilla at a higher price. I think the 110 clawhammer at the same price would be a better option, but if you look around you will find many happy Grainfather owners.
 
I think grandfather is the one that's been around longest. Used to be the gold standard. Like mentioned above you need to look at capacity. I've looked at them and my concerns besides capacity was doing a decoction mash which I do a lot of. The slow boil and the cleaning. So you should look at features that make cleaning easier.
 
Chip99 said:
What does everyone here think of the Grainfather? Good unit? Worth the extra price?
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I don’t use a GF kettle, I do use their fermentation adapter kits, as they allow remote temp control and Tilt integration via their app.

I think before you decide on what to get, you should ask yourself what you have by way of requirements.

110 vs. 220 is the obvious one. If you can do 220v, you will get a lot faster temperature adjustments, better boil, and will save time in the brew day.
If you can do a 220 kettle, I’d go for it. My Anvil uses 20a on a dedicated circuit, it’s overkill for 90% of my brewing as I usually do 6 gallon batches but it works nicely and temperature ramp up is way faster.

Next, what features on you now broken system did you like and what would you improve. There are a lot of youtube videos on the various systems. Each of them have their own quirks and their own features. Watch some of the shakedown / comparison videos and see where you land.
 
One suggestion on the 220v all in ones. I use an Anvil. Fifty, sixty batches or so and counting. Only thing I changed was to add a sight glass.
For 220 V power I use an extension cord from the kitchen stove. Mine is in the basement at the far end of the house so the cord is prob 60 feet long. The dryer would have been closer but uesable.
 
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