I have an idea. Maybe pour a beer into the glass, drink it, and then pour another one! By then the glass should be ready.

I have fallen prey to the "no dish soap" approach. I have been using pbw for fear soap will kill foam. Today, though, I quickly washed a glass with regular dish washing liquid in a pinch and poured. I didn't see any adverse effects. Great foam stability and lacing. I woudln't say I'm converted...

Update. Ended up going with D-90 Syrup, dropped the sugar and roasted malt. Substituted abbey malt for Biscuit, because I had some already. Made a couple of changes from my past brews: didn't use a hop sac and everything went into the fermenter, and cold crashed for a week before bottling cold...

As far as I can tell, PBW has percarbonate, washing soda, EDTA, and Sodium metasilicate. Obviously, the active ingredient is the percarbonate. The other salts might be there as PH stabilizers and to make it easier to rinse.

Just here and there on the internet, plus the PBW container says to soak for 20mn if you are not planning to scrub, which I haven't been doing. Still waiting for a nice bottle brush to arrive. That said, I can't imagine there would be anything left in those bottles that could spoil a batch...

Ok, so i just gave each 10 pumps on the avinator with PBW for good measure. I'm letting them sit now for a few mins before rinsing. Even with ten pumps, the thing saved me so much time and effort, it's definitely worth it. I only made a liter of pbw. Even at the max amount of 14g per liter...

I'm wondering if it is really necessary to soak bottles for 20 minutes in PBW before sanitizing with Star San. Problem is, it takes an inordinate amount of PBW to soak 50 bottles at the same time and the stuff is just so expensive. I've been trying to save by making ten liters of it and soaking...

I don't know about kits, as I have never used one so far. In reality, any beer that is not fined in some fashion will exhibit some haze when initially chilled, that is normal. That said, beers prone to having persistent chill haze usually have some wheat, flaked oats or flaked non-malted barley...

Keep the bottles cold. Cold conditioning the bottles in a fridge will eventually clear most beers. Some of mine have taken a few days, some a week, some up to three weeks. The chill haze will eventually settle out on top of the yeast and the beer will be crystal clear. If the bottles are...

I noticed that all my beers based on a similar recipe, pitched with a 1L starter of WLP530, starting at 1.063 OG, always finish up at 1.008 FG. According to the BF recipe calculator that corresponds to a "custom" attenuation of 84% for that yeast. I have gotten in the habit of using that custom...

This thread brings back memories. I've only brewed 4 times so far. The first two times I was sure that something was wrong, only to find myself drinking great beer after a few weeks, especially after letting the carbonated bottles condition in the fridge. During my second bottling session, I...

I'm glad to hear that. Last time I missed my first temperature and ended up with 144º, I let it go for 30 minutes, but then the internet got the best of me, and I ended up doing another step @ 148º, and another at 158º... something about 144º not being hot enough to gelatinize the starches for...

Because I've been doing step mashes, I do need to stir the mash, because I'm adding heat from the bottom. Once everything is stabilized, I leave it alone until the end of that step. I find that stirring any time after that, and the temperature drops because I'm doing BIAB in a stainless steel...

A couple of things: Yes. I can get Castle Malting belgian pilsner cheaper than pale malt, not sure why... but maybe because I'm in Europe Yes, I thought about that. I was thinking that Candi syrup would be hard to get, and I wanted to add color to about 40 SRM. However, I did just find...

Now that I have a couple of very successful blonde/amber Belgian ales under my belt. I want to try something a little different for the next brew day. I'm thinking of something along the lines of a dark brown ale brewed with the same trappist yeast. I personally really like quadrupels, but the...

Man... there's a whole other subject I need to get into, but am too afraid to try just yet.

I've been throwing them away... oops! They just look so gnarly after brew day.

Yes, I dump the entire kettle into the primary, so there would be 5g of low %AA hops in there (Hallertau Mittelfrüh). If the net effect were increased hop aroma, I would welcome that, as long as it's not some indiscriminate grassy note. This will be my 4th brew. For the first three, I used high...

I am wondering if there are any real advantages from using a hop bag, vs just tossing the hop pellets straight into the wort. I normally dump all the trub into the fermenter, so any hop debris will make it in there. So far, I have used a hop bag for all the additions, but for the next batch...

I got another brew day coming up and thought I would post a final update on this last batch. A few weeks in cold storage and the beer has completely cleared. I must admit, I was expecting it to remain hazy, so the clarity threw me off. Either way, the profile has not changed. The hop aroma is a...