The most common cause for low efficiency is grain crush size. If you have control over it, try crushing a little finer. If you BIAB, then you can crush pretty fine. But you'll probably have more dough balls to break up. I mash in a picnic cooler and batch sparge. My mill gap set at 0.040"...

Welcome Pal! What's the homebrewing community like in Stockholm?

That was my first clue that an update had been deployed

I noticed the same. We had the hidden arrow problem after a major software release. It was fixed and now returned. I suspect that that particular code fix was never checked in properly and was reverted with the latest release.

Genius idea!

Yesterday was brew #100! I brewed Wayner's Pale Ale. I nailed my OG twice! The first one was when I hit the recipe's actual OG (1.060) and the second one was after I boiled another 20 minutes to hit the (incorrect) OG (1.065) that I had written down :rolleyes: ! The only real problem I had...

Apart from the PITA and ASPCA protesters picketing your house, I don't see why not! :p

I think brewing a batch with RO water is an excellent idea. Even if you don't plan to do that long term, it will help to determine how much your municipal water is impacting your beer. And definitely get your water tested; especially if you plan to sell your beer.

With water chemistry, especially at the homebrew scale, just try to get the numbers in the ballpark. Except for HCO3, I can never get that one close so I don't even try.

Something I never thought I would ever here from @Craigerrr!

I have heard it said that the ratio of those two salts is more important than the actual values themselves. You don't need to hit the numbers exactly, just get in the ballpark. I tried getting close to Burton-on-Trent target profile for a ESB and didn't really like it. The salt additions...

While there may be a good reason to add gypsum to the boil, I have only ever added gypsum to the mash. Are you brewing all grain or extract? I could see adding gypsum to the boil if you are brewing extract. As far at the ppm question goes: As long as you know your source water and target...

I do the same (except I vourlauf at the end of the mash and not during) and have pretty clear beer. I think the vourlauf and cold crashing are the biggest factors in clear beer. I also use @Dave Y 's "Overhead Beer" method as well. Once I see trub in the transfer hose I stop the transfer.

I haven't brewed a Cascadian Dark Ale in years either but, it has been creeping up on my need-to-brew list. I don't use the term Black IPA mainly because a pale beer should not be black.

Absolutely! Join when you can; leave when you want. We probably spend half the time talking about beer and the other half about everything else. At the end of last meeting @Sandy Feet and I were boring @Sunfire96 to death with our discussions about Rush :D.

@Bigbre04, the way this story started I was expecting a much darker* ending. :oops: * I really tried, but couldn't, resist the pun ;)

Never underestimate the power of human stupidity!

@J A is correct. I downloaded your recipe and without checking the pre & post volume calculations to automatic, the pre-boil volume was 11.3 gallons and generating quick water calc shows it wants 13 gallons of strike water. Clicking the pre & post to automatic dropped the pre-boil to 7...

When I bottle I use Northern Brewer's priming sugar calculator . One correction would be to use the max fermentation temperature rather than the current temperature of your beer. This will have a big impact if you cold crash before bottling.

Resurrecting this thread now because while I didn't brew it back then,mainly due to sticker shock on the hops, I have always wanted to brew it. Since my next batch will be my 100th batch I thought I'd splurge and brew something special. I'll be swapping out the Citra for Cascade because that...