Dilution in Fermenter???

[Titus]

Hello Community and thank you for assisting this new brewer. I'm an extract brewer with his second batch now in the fermenter (five days in). My first batch was an APA now in bottle conditioning so I haven't yet sampled my beer. (Hope it's tasty.) It's regarding my second batch, three gallons of robust porter, that I have questions about.

On brew day I did keep good records and used both the recipe checklist and brew day sheet. However, I only used this site's Recipe Builder after the fact. It seems I've missed the style I was aiming for. My actual OG was 1.078. Fermentation seems to be going well in a plastic carboy. When I tweaked the Recipe Builder to factor in a four gallon batch size versus my actual three gallon batch size, almost all the parameters for my intended style came within accepted standards. (The exception is my IBU's which is a bit high for the style.)

Question: can I simply add one gallon of cooled, pre-boiled water to the fermenter to alter the beer to better mimic the style of a robust porter? I plan at least two (but less than three) weeks in the primary before racking to bottles. If I can add a gallon of water do I need to be careful about adding it without splashing? I suppose I could use a sanitized hose from a spigot on my sanitized bottling bucket.

Question: I do not have a spare refrigerator to cold crash a beer. I do, however, have a place in the basement out of the light with a near constant temperature of 50F. If I moved the primary fermenter there after most activity has slowed, say after a week, would there be any advantage in clearing this beer?

Thanks in advance for your assistance. I am becoming totally engrossed in this hobby. Only wish I had discovered it earlier, but better late than never...

 

[Nosybear]

Were it I making the decision, I'd let it go without dilution. You'll get a stronger beer that way, maybe out of tolerance for the style, but the higher final gravity and sweetness should offset the higher bitterness you mentioned. Dilution with sterile water won't cause problems but unless you're planning on entering the beer into a competition, I can't see why you should do it, again, unless you wanted more of the beer than you'll get without diluting it. I look at it this way: Dilution after fermentation starts is an opportunity for error, a chance to introduce something you don't want. Unless there's a very good reason to do it, I wouldn't.

 

[brewmer]

+1, id leave it if it was mine, make adjustments to your next brew record the results and brew it a few times till the results are constant and yer happy with the beer....

 

[Head First]

Gotta agree with nosybear and would also add that this could raise the PH of the beer I would guess. Lots of good beers are out of style catagories and are good beers. Chalk 1 up as a learning experience and try again.

 

[Titus]

Thank you all for your replies. I'm going to leave well enough alone. Increasing the volume isn't a goal and I suppose that not conforming to the porter style isn't tragic, so I'll be content with what is underway. An enjoyable, palatable beer is my only goal this early in my education.

Anyone care to take a stab at answering my question #2 in my original message?

Cheers!

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

50 would be fine for conditioning your wort/beer just don't open it after fermentation stops

 

[Nosybear]

I disagree with my friend QHB on this. Keep the beer in the 60's for at least two weeks to allow the yeast to finish their work. If you cool it too quickly, English yeasts are notorious for floculating out of the beer. They won't be able to finish their work of cleaning up the off-favors and unwanted fermentation by-products and once they've settled, they're awfully hard to rouse. Cool the beer to 50 in another week or so to help the yeast settle out but for English ales, including porter, this kind of cool "lagering" isn't really necessary.

 

[Head First]

If you choose to secondary , the second week in secondary at 50 would help to clarify, but also keep in mind that 50 is an excellent temp to ferment a lager, down the road. Some ale yeasts will do some work at 50 but most do start to drop out. I have read where some people ferment nottingham down near 50 but as you begin your best to go with mainstream stuff and just practice good consistent brewing techniques. Secondary is a debatable technique in brewing. I personally don't always do it except when brewing big beers such as that Porter or to throw in some hops on an IPA. 2 weeks in primary, chill to 38-40 for a couple of days then keg or bottle. If just bottling then no need to chill, good beer will clarify in the bottle with proper aging and chilling.

 

[Titus]

Thank you all for the really helpful replies. I just tried a bottle of my first batch, a generic ale, bottled two weeks ago and it's surprisingly good. I'm encouraged.

Sounds like I've got a good location in my home for fermenting a lager so I see one in my future.

 

[Nosybear]

Be cautious there! 50 is good for primary fermentation. You need to get near freezing for lagering.

Your first beer generally surprises you (survivorship bias: If it surprises you badly, you tend not to brew again!). I have to say, I've never been completely satisfied with a beer. That keeps you improving, striving for just a little better. Welcome to the fold!