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Bushey P A

124 calories 10.7 g 330 ml
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Beer Stats
Method: BIAB
Style: Standard/Ordinary Bitter
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 10 liters (ending kettle volume)
Pre Boil Size: 13.5 liters
Pre Boil Gravity: 1.030 (recipe based estimate)
Efficiency: 70% (ending kettle)
Calories: 124 calories (Per 330ml)
Carbs: 10.7 g (Per 330ml)
Created: Thursday July 9th 2020
1.041
1.007
4.5%
32.6
8.4
6.1
n/a
 
Fermentables
Amount Fermentable Cost PPG °L Bill %
1.71 kg United Kingdom - Maris Otter Pale1.71 kg Maris Otter Pale 38 3.75 91.9%
0.15 kg Bairds - Crystal Malt 1500.15 kg Crystal Malt 150 34 57 8.1%
1.86 kg / $ 0.00
 
Hops
Amount Variety Cost Type AA Use Time IBU Bill %
7 g Challenger7 g Challenger Hops Leaf/Whole 8.5 Boil 60 min 16.38 31.8%
7 g Goldings7 g Goldings Hops Leaf/Whole 4.5 Boil 60 min 8.67 31.8%
4 g Challenger4 g Challenger Hops Leaf/Whole 8.5 Boil 20 min 5.67 18.2%
4 g Challenger4 g Challenger Hops Leaf/Whole 8.5 Boil 5 min 1.87 18.2%
22 g / $ 0.00
 
Other Ingredients
Amount Name Cost Type Use Time
0.25 each Britewort Fining Boil 10 min.
1 each Campden Tablet Water Agt Mash 1 hr.
 
Yeast
Fermentis - Safale - American Ale Yeast US-05
Amount:
1 Each
Cost:
Attenuation (avg):
81%
Flocculation:
Medium
Optimum Temp:
12 - 25 °C
Starter:
No
Fermentation Temp:
23 °C
Pitch Rate:
0.35 (M cells / ml / ° P) 36 B cells required
$ 0.00 Yeast Pitch Rate and Starter Calculator
Priming
Method: dextrose       Amount: 45g       Temp: 20 °C       CO2 Level: 2.44 Volumes
 
Target Water Profile
Balanced Profile
Ca+2 Mg+2 Na+ Cl- SO4-2 HCO3-
0 0 0 0 0 0
No Treatment
Mash Chemistry and Brewing Water Calculator
 
Mash Guidelines
Amount Description Type Start Temp Target Temp Time
6.5 L BIAB - 15l Pot - Remove Grain and heat 7l water Steeping 22 °C 66 °C 60 min
7 L Combine 1st wort with 2nd Steep (15 min) Steeping 22 °C 78 °C 15 min
Quick Water Requirements
Water Liters
Total strike volume 16.3
Mash volume with grains 17.5
Grain absorption losses -1.9
Mash Lauter Tun losses -0.9
Pre boil volume (equipment estimates 15.8 L) 13.5
Boil off losses -5.7
Hops absorption losses (first wort, boil, aroma) -0.1
Post boil volume (equipment estimates 7.7 L) 10
Estimated amount in fermentor 10
Total: 16.3  
Equipment Profile Used: System Default
 
Notes
  1. Begin by getting or your equipment out and ready. At this point everything should be clean but it doesn’t have to be sanitised just yet, I will let you know what needs sanitising and when. Add 6.5 litres (6.8 US quarts) of water to your stock pot and begin heating it to 72°C. We need to be pretty accurate here so use your thermometer.

  2. Whilst the water is heating we need to prepare all our ingredients. Refer to the recipe for your chosen beer and begin weighing out the malted grains for the necessary quantities needed. The first thing we are preparing to do is to mash them. This doesn’t mean squash or smush them, it involves steeping them at a certain temperature. Mashing enables enzymes to convert the starches in the malted grains to sugars which will feed the yeast and create alcohol.

  3. Once you are up to temperature turn off the heat. Get your mashing bag ready and immerse it in your pot folding the edges over the outside of the pot to secure it in place.

  4. Once again ensure the temperature is 72°C and then you can add all the malt required for your chosen recipe. Stir this thoroughly to ensure there are no dry spots clumped together and take the temperature once again. We are looking to hit around the 64-68°C mark. If it’s too hot add a little cold water and stir.

  5. Put the lid on and let it do its thing. The more you interfere with it the quicker you will lose temperature. Check the mash every 20 minutes or so and if the temperature has dropped below 63°C very slowly apply heat and stir. You don’t want to scorch the grains.

  6. After an hour the mashing should be done. You will now have a sugary, malty wort that you need to separate the grains from. Lift out the mashing bag with the grain and allow as much of the wort to drain out. Once you’re happy or your arms aching too much set the bag in a bowl to one side.

  7. You should now have a stock pot with just the wort in it. We need to transfer this into the clean fermenter to free up the stock pot again to heat more water. Go ahead and pour the wort in carefully. Now in your empty stock pot add 7 litres (7.4 US quarts) of water and begin heating to 78°C

  8. Once you are up to temperature turn off the heat and grab the bag of grain you set aside earlier and dunk it in the pot. Secure the bag around the pot like before and give the grain a good stir. Cover and leave this for a further 15 minutes.

  9. After 15 minutes once again lift the bag out and allow to drain as much as possible. We are done with the grain now so you can do with it as you will. Compost? spent grain bread? bin? It’s up to you. I wouldn’t leave it around too long though as it does acidify and go off quickly.

  10. Now it’s time to combine the 2 lots of wort in the stock pot so pour the original lot that’s in the fermenter in and bring the whole lot up to boiling.

  11. You’ll have to keep an eye on it as it reaches boiling as quite a lot of foam will build up, you don’t want a boil over because it’s a real pain to clean up afterward.

  12. So by now you should have achieved a constant rolling boil it’s time to add the first lot of hops stated in the recipe you are brewing. These are the hops that will add bitterness to the beer and balance out the malt character.

  13. All that is needed now is to keep an eye on the boil until the next addition of hops is required. It’s important to keep a steady rolling boil but apart from that relax.

  14. Add the next hop additions as required in the recipe. In this period you can start sanitising some equipment that you will be using after the boil. You’ll need to sanitise your fermenting vessel; spoon/paddle, strainer, thermometer, jug and an bung/airlock also a funnel may be useful.

  15. After 60 minutes on the boil it’s time to turn the heat off. We’re nearly done but first of all we need to cool the wort down as quickly as possible. This is important to precipitate out a lot of debris and to avoid any wild yeast or bacteria that might want to get into your home brew.

  16. Fill a sink or tub up with cold water and, if you want, chuck some ice in. Sit the post in this ice water bath to cool it down quickly. You’ll need to replace the water in the bath as it warms up. Use your sanitised thermometer to check the temperature occasionally, we are aiming for a temperature of around 21-22°C

  17. Once you’ve cooled the wort down enough we need to transfer the wort into the fermenter and get as much oxygen into the wort in the process. We need to pour the beer through the strainer to remove the hops and in the process splash the wort. If you are using a fermenting bin you can use the jug to lift up some wort and pour it back into the fermenting bin from a height a few times. If you have a carboy cover the top and give it a good shake to aerate it.

  18. We’re coming up to the final part of the brew day all that’s left to do is pitch the yeast into the aerated wort. As we have made a relatively small batch go right ahead and sprinkle the sachet on top of the beer.

  19. Get your sanitised airlock and add a little water to fill the u-bend, then fit to the fermenting bin lid or into the bung in your carboy.

  20. Wait…..2 weeks

    You will want to know fermentation has stopped so first of all check that there’s no activity from the airlock. If you have a hydrometer use it, check the hydrometer reading on consecutive days it should be low, between 1.010 – 1.018 and not of changed at all between those 2 readings.

    Now this is the part of brewing that most people agree is a chore. You are going to obviously need some bottles to put your beer in, all these bottles need to be sanitised.

    You can get various equipment like drying racks for your bottles and brushes. If you find this makes it easier then go for it, either way they all need doing.

    Another thing is, sanitise more bottles than you think you need. It’s always a pain to have to stop because you have run out of bottles.

    The best bottles are brown glass ones as this stops light from affecting the beer. Just save the ones from the beer you buy from the shops.

    Carbonation with Priming Sugar
    At this point the beer is flat we want to give it some fizz. To do this we need to prepare some priming sugar.

    All that is needed is to boil 45 grams of sugar in 2 cups of water (for a 10 litre brew) for 10 minutes or so to sanitise then allow to cool to room temperature.

    If possible, it’s always a good idea to rack the beer into another vessel before bottling because this will decrease the chances of sediment making it into the bottle (you can use your stock pot if you wish, sanitise it first though).

    If you are racking put the priming sugar in the new vessel and siphon the beer on top of this without splashing it. If you can’t do this don’t worry just take it easy and try not to disturb the sediment too much and, if you haven’t already, gently stir in the priming sugar, avoiding splashing, with a sanitised spoon.

    Right, now we now need to get the beer from the fermentation vessel into the bottles. You will need a siphon tube for this (sterilised of course).

    Usually you will have a length of tube with a sediment trap on and a cane so you can push the tube to the bottom of the vessel. On the other end you can have a clamp type device to control the flow.

    One thing I would recommend is something called a bottling wand, instead of the clamp type thing you have a rod that when you push against the bottom of the bottle allows the siphon to work and when pulled away shuts the siphon off. This device will make the whole process so much easier and smoother.

    If you haven’t siphoned before then check out this article on how to siphon, then have a practice with some water.

    Capping
    Finally we need to seal the bottles. You will need a device called a crown capper (these come in various shapes and sizes so ask at your home brew store) and of course some caps.

    Soak the caps in a sanitising solution before beginning. Make sure the beer is roughly an inch and a half from the top of the bottle we don’t want to much head space at the top and not full to the brim.

    Now seal the bottles using your capper and store for one to two weeks for carbonation to take effect.

    Your First Home Brew Beer
    So a couple of weeks have passed, by now you’ll be dying to see what your beer is like. There is nothing quite like the anticipation of opening the first beer of a batch of home brew.

    I wouldn’t be surprised if some of you have had a sneak peek before now, in which case you may find it’s not fully carbonated. Give it time to allow the carbonation to take effect and the flavours to mellow out and round off, around the 2-3 week mark and your beer will be in tip top condition.

    Drinking Your Beer…. you don’t need me to tell you how to do this right?
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  • Last Updated: 2020-07-09 17:27 UTC