Single Hop Pale Ale

[ChuckGViolin]

After spending an hour trying to decide on which hops to use, I decided to just use one - Glacier. Please let me know if this looks ok. I'm aiming to brew this next week or so. I'm going for a clean and light (in color) pale ale at the high end of IBUs. BTW, the yeast is Safale-05 - because it's good and it'll withstand the warmer temps here in the summer. I'm still going to use swamp cooler to keep the temp down closer to 70-72.

One last thing - I'm doing a 60 minute boil but adding the first ounce of hops at 45 to keep the IBUs under 50. Thanks for looking! Shoot, almost forgot - 3 gallon batch.

 

[J A]

Less Crystal...and your IBUs are really up there for a Blonde...you might be happier with something in the mid-30s. Otherwise great recipe.
Glacier won't be a stand-out hop, but it'll make a wonderful beer. I've done a very similar Pilsner/Blonde Ale with Sterling hops - spicy and noble like Saaz but with some strong American citrus/fruit contribution.

 

[ChuckGViolin]

Cool. Thanks. I may yet adjust hops - a game time decision so to speak. I ordered the grains and will brew next week or week after. I'm glad Glacier is a little mild. Saving the tough stuff for my IPAs.

I ordered from Ritebrew this time and got double crush, plus some acid for adjusting mash ph. My first time messing with water chemistry. Recipe is based on 65% eff., but who knows, maybe I'll get over 70 this time

Oh, and I went with Northwest Pale Ale malt - apparently akin to British pale ale. Something different

 

[lionman]

I would drop the crystal down to around 4oz, half a pound will be quite chewy and really dominate the brew, especially in a 3 gallon batch.
I would also consider moving more of the hops to the late additions and add the bittering hops at either 60mins or FWH.

something like

.5oz FWH
.5oz 10min
1oz 5min

~38IBU

 

[ChuckGViolin]

Thank you. I tend to be way too heavy handed with the crystal/caramel in my grain bill. I've noticed that in my brews overall.

I have the hops that way on purpose. I do want a little extra bitterness. While I'm not a slave to "style," 50 IBUs is the max for pale ale. I should come in just under that.

 

[ChuckGViolin]

I'm brewing this tomorrow. First double crush and first ph test/adjustment. Fingers crossed.

 

[Mark D Pirate]

Like many others I usually try to get about a third of my total IBUs from my first addition .
Think you'll find you don't get enough flavour or aroma with your current schedule
The one lionman posted looks good and will result in a more balanced beer .
Good luck with it !

 

[ChuckGViolin]

I think I'll try that. You know, peer pressure and all

First wort will give me time to do some other stuff that needs to get done. Win win

 

[GFHomebrew]

I think I'll try that. You know, peer pressure and all

First wort will give me time to do some other stuff that needs to get done. Win win

Hey chuck just after the hot break make sure you keep an eye out for any free loading bittering hops clinging above tge boil line im guessing this may attribute to less bitterness from first hop charge.

Last brew i noticed this and quickly spashed it back in oh no oxidation . Sorry...

 

[ChuckGViolin]

Hey chuck just after the hot break make sure you keep an eye out for any free loading bittering hops clinging above tge boil line im guessing this may attribute to less bitterness from first hop charge.

Last brew i noticed this and quickly spashed it back in oh no oxidation . Sorry...

Thanks. What are your thoughts for using hop bags. I have a bunch of muslin bags I don't use for steeping anymore.

 

[GFHomebrew]

Thanks. What are your thoughts for using hop bags. I have a bunch of muslin bags I don't use for steeping anymore.

I havnt used them i just tip them in and let them roam free. I am toying with the idea of using a hop bag to dry hop my keg next brew.

My approach is anything prior to fermentation let it be. I transfer most everything into fermentor coldbreak material hops almost everything bar the real thick stuff last 500ml in kettle.

Let it sort itself out in fermentor.

Once fermentation is done ie my fermentations even for lagers are ually 2 weeks and beer is transfered off the lees.

Back to post fermentation once you think FG is reached hydrometer is stable over a period of a few days then work on keeping everything out the glass. Cold crash for a few days fine with geletin transfer through fine mesh cloth on end of transfer hose keg /bottle - carb enjoy.

 

[Nosybear]

I think I'll try that. You know, peer pressure and all

First wort will give me time to do some other stuff that needs to get done. Win win

First wort hopping in a Pale is a good idea, IMHO. I'd try it but I'm already committed to a 60-minute addition (didn't buy enough hops to change plans now). Will try that next time. I use hop bags, by the way. Keeps a lot of gunk out of the fermentor. I'm not afraid of protein - trub - but hop debris really has a flavor associated with it and I don't want that in my beer.

 

[ChuckGViolin]

Thanks fellas. I've dry hopped with a bag (man was it gross after 10 days in there) and I'm thinking about doing it with this boil. I've got the kettle on the stove. I'll let you know how it goes....

 

[ChuckGViolin]

Hmmm, overshot my mash temp. Added some ice water. It stabilized at about 151 when I was going for 148. I'm going to just go with it.

 

[Nosybear]

Hmmm, overshot my mash temp. Added some ice water. It stabilized at about 151 when I was going for 148. I'm going to just go with it.

Good plan.

 

[J A]

The difference in148 and 151 won't be noticeable. Unless you're aerating with 02, you probably won't get the kind of attenuation that would get every last molecule of fermentables, anyway.
It'll be fine!