Mash tun build

[7 Slot Brewing]

I had a spare igloo ware cooler whose valve had gone bad. I took the valve out and found the hole would fit the below links valve perfectly. My question is the flow out since it is not a ball valve, is that a rely big deal, or more of a patience thing?

If this valve were to work, that makes a mash tun for under $15 including all the other parts.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_56964-34146-M75 ... 564&rpp=32

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

there is rubber parts inside that are not heat rated and will decay over time, only reason I can think of

 

[chessking]

Actually you don't even need a valve for a mash tun. Just make sure your output hose is elevated above the level of the fluid, and can't accidentally fall. Clamp it up with a office binder clip or something.

Or you can use a cheap plastic valve. Check out Denny Conn's setup.

http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/

He makes great beer, and knows his stuff, but his equipment is simple.

To answer your question, assuming the valve can handle the temps, it really depends on how you plan to sparge. If fly sparging, then you need to be able to control the output, and usualy this is done at a slow rate of flow, so a restrictive valve is no problem. If batch sparging, then the flow rate is whatever the valve will allow. Open her up and let it drain. A restrictive valve only adds a little time to the lauder, but probably not enough to what is an already long brew day. But as I mentioned earlier, lacking a valve does not keep you from brewing. Save up and get the valve you want, go without, or compromise, but keep on brewing.

 

[7 Slot Brewing]

Thanks guys. I saw Dennys post, and I am on the same wavelength of function over looks never even thought about the hose just bent up until ready to drain.

I decided to do it similar to Larrys Blog here, not to mention the boiler valve had no indication it was lead free, but instead stated not approved for "drinking" water in states x and x ( can't remember which ones )

I plan to do batch sparging. But if I have the valve then fly sparging could be possible...i think

I will post pics once all done.

 

[Nosybear]

Just DON'T make the mistake I did and put a right-angle fitting on the outlet - that's a recipe for stuck mashes. I have a couple of sparge procedures in my arsenal: Batch sparging works well if I have room in the cooler - I'm using a 10 Gal Igloo with a false bottom. Last weekend I did a Doppelbock with 18.5# malt at 1.5 Qt/Lb - no room for a mash-out or batch sparge. So I heated my sparge water to 168° then, when the wort got low enough I could see the grain, added a few quarts water. Lost about 4 points that way - sugars left in the grain - but then, close enough for homebrew. And I gained the time necessary for a second recirculation!

 

[7 Slot Brewing]

Just DON'T make the mistake I did and put a right-angle fitting on the outlet - that's a recipe for stuck mashes....

I ALMOST did that! In fact the boiler drain would have created that just by its design. I changed things up though and used some brass parts I had laying around. It is only a 5 gallon for now since I am just doing PM. If I find a killer deal on a 10 gallon cooler, I can always move the stuff over.

 

[Krimbos]

[Nosybear wrote:
Just DON'T make the mistake I did and put a right-angle fitting on the outlet - that's a recipe for stuck mashes....

Now you tell me....

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

cheap New 10 gallon cooler only $51.99

http://www.zorotools.com/g/00055135/k-G ... Mgody0oAuA

I prefer to use brew in a bag in a 10 or 15 gallon pot, just pull the bag out; put it in a 7 gallon bucket, add sparge water on top then poor it back in, works very well for little money or mess

 

[Nosybear]

Somewhere on the Internet (and we all know there's nothing but truth out there, right?) I saw the design that included a right-angle fitting. So I tried it. After stuck mash after stuck mash, I finally decided it was the problem and took it off. Last weekend, a foot or more of grain in the cooler, no problems. Moral: Don't believe everything you read about brewing on the Internet or, as I once heard in a movie, it's all true, especially the lies!

 

[Nosybear]

Quality: No concerns for hot-side oxidation? You're pouring hot wort back and forth, there's a strong possibility you're oxygenating it. That said, I've read on the Internet (and we all know it's all true, right) and in some brewing book - can't remember where - that fears of hot-side oxidation are vastly overblown. Use these numbers for comparison, actual mileage may vary.

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

never had it, actually most of the time get too much flavor and too much efficiency the way I brew, then I filter and it cuts it back lol

no splashing now lol, use a hose and pump , submerge the hose under the liquid level