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Flanders Red Ale

Discussion in 'Recipes for Feedback' started by Gledison, Aug 24, 2017.

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  1. Gledison

    Gledison Active Member

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    #1 Gledison, Aug 24, 2017
    As i know that will take a while to finish this beer i would like to start as soon as possible :p
    I´ve never brew a sour beer before and your help is needed:)
    Just got this recipe bellow in the web:
    • 5 lbs - Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) (Grain) or Pale ale
      4 lbs 8.0 oz - Pilsner (2 Row) Bel (2.0 SRM) (Grain)
      3 lbs - Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) (Grain)
      8.0 oz - Aromatic Malt (26.0 SRM) (Grain)
      8.0 oz - Caramunich Malt (56.0 SRM) (Grain)
      8.0 oz - Special B Malt (180.0 SRM) (Grain)
      8.0 oz - Wheat Malt, Bel (2.0 SRM) (Grain)
      1.0 oz - Goldings, East Kent [5.8%] - Boil 60 min (Hops) or Magnum
      1 pkgs - Roselare Belgian Blend (Wyeast Labs #3763) (Yeast)
      1 pkgs - Safale American (DCL/Fermentis #US-05) (Yeast)
    • Boil: 90 Minutes
      Beer Profile
      Original Gravity: 1.062 (15.1° P)
      Final Gravity: 1.007 SG (1.8° P)
      Alcohol by Vol: 7.3%
      Color SRM: 14.6 Color Sample
      Bitterness IBU: 15.8
      Recipe Type: all-grain
      Yield: 6.00 US Gallons
      Source: Jamil
    I´ve seen some recipes with only the Roselare 3763 yest. Ist realy necessary to have also an Ale ist?
    I will be trying a 2 Galon recipe, and im wondering if i can Keep the rest of the Roselare for the 2nd Trial :p

    IF you already tried a similar recipe, please be free to add your Input (im not necessarily sticked to this one)
    I just would like to Keep the things as simple as possible..
    thanks in advance
     
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  2. KC

    KC Active Member

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    #2 KC, Aug 26, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2017
    That's a messier grain bill than I would use, but that doesn't necessarily make it bad. My club has its own Flanders recipe pulled from Brewing Classic Styles, available here (also from Jamil with Palmer). That's still too messy for me, so I stick to around 4 ingredients for my own batches.

    Two yeasts is normal. The ale is used for a quick primary conversion, then the second yeast is for conditioning and souring to replicate what would traditionally happen in a barrel. Souring is key for Flanders to offset the sweet wheat, cara and high kiln malts with low hop IBU. It's also a majority of the end flavor. My last personal batch was heavy on corn, and after primary I didn't like it at all. But after pitching brett and barrel aging a few more months it made a nice balance.
     
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  3. robdog

    robdog New Member

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    #3 robdog, Aug 26, 2017
    I am curious if you could use just either Imperial Yeast Belgian Ales B45 Gnome or it's B51 Workhorse strains. I think that might help you achieve your goal.
     
  4. Gledison

    Gledison Active Member

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    #4 Gledison, Aug 28, 2017
    Hi. I will take a re look in the grains bill and try to simplify.
    REgarding the Roeselare yest: I´ve read in different Posts that People are not getting enough sourness from secondary Fermentation (after finishing the first with the Ale yeast). Some guys suggests adding the Roeselare directly on the Primary. If i undestood properly, the Ale yest will be faster in consuming the Sugars than the bacterias. im still wondering what would be the best. Im getting a oak Barrel anyways and my plan was to rack to a secondary, leave it for a couple of weeks and than Transfer to the Barrel (or directly to the Barrel for secondary??)

    Other Point: i´ve never used a smackpack and im wondering if i have to use all the yeast or if would be possible to save , lets say, half pack. Im running a 10L Batch, so i Need only half pack for that.
    cheers
     
  5. Gledison

    Gledison Active Member

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    #5 Gledison, Aug 28, 2017
    Do you mean to have only one yeast for the whole Job?
    cheers
     
  6. robdog

    robdog New Member

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    #6 robdog, Aug 28, 2017
    yes...Most times I make a yeast starter to help create more yeast cells, but I usually only use one package - I heard that with Imperial Yeast, you don't even need to make a starter - might want to give them a try - I will on my next brew in a couple of weeks
     
  7. Gledison

    Gledison Active Member

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    #7 Gledison, Aug 29, 2017
    Hi,
    i will try only using the Roeselare (i see some People just doing that).
    Do you have experience in keeping yeast blend? I will Need only 1/3 or half pack of this blend and im wondering how could i Keep the rest for the next Batch.
    cheers
     
  8. Trialben

    Trialben Well-Known Member

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    #8 Trialben, Aug 30, 2017
    Mmmm if it was me i would either spin up say a 1.5 lt starter split that three ways pitch a third. Or.... pitch in half your yeast pack and spin a starter with remainder and store in mason jar till needed.
     
  9. Gledison

    Gledison Active Member

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    #9 Gledison, Aug 30, 2017
    Do i Need a Jar with some over pressure release?:p I never cultivated yeast before. The bugs will continue to Ferment the starter at low temperature (in the fridge)? how Long can i Keep it having still Sugars in the starter?
    thanks a lot
     
  10. Ozarks Mountain Brew

    Ozarks Mountain Brew Moderator
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    #10 Ozarks Mountain Brew, Aug 30, 2017
    they will go dormant in the cold, it depends on how cold but its best in 60 to 80F temps
     
  11. Trialben

    Trialben Well-Known Member

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    #11 Trialben, Aug 31, 2017
    Also let the starter ferment out befor wacking it in a jar with a lid on you know the yeast are done consuming the sugars then. Don't want any explosions:). Like Ozarks said the yeast will have a snooze though I must say I've had some bulged starter jar lids before:rolleyes:...
     
  12. Gledison

    Gledison Active Member

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    #12 Gledison, Aug 31, 2017
    Great. I believe the starter its just to multiply de cells right? im just wondering if its not the case, i could simply fill the package in a jar (without sugar) and Keep it at cold temperature. In the Wyeast site they said its not recomended but well, they can sell more if not :)
     
  13. Trialben

    Trialben Well-Known Member

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    #13 Trialben, Aug 31, 2017
    Make sure the jar is clean boiled for at least 10-15min and then yes you could stick the rest of the unused yeast in it. You don't wanna contaminate that yeast but it should work.
     
  14. Trialben

    Trialben Well-Known Member

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    #14 Trialben, Sep 1, 2017
    Mate your timing is impeccable brulosophy has just released.a speal on this very beer over a 4 year period check it out!
     
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  15. Gledison

    Gledison Active Member

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    #15 Gledison, Sep 12, 2017
  16. Gledison

    Gledison Active Member

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    #16 Gledison, Oct 25, 2017
    Hi Mate,
    I pitched the Roeselare last sunday and i saved the rest following your instructions :). I have one remaining question: After 3 days, the jar is closed and it has some Sediment on the bottom. Can i leave it like this or shall i save only the liquid part? or im that stupid and the yeast is on the bottom? :p
    I found quite annoying to use the smack pack due to the fact that i wasnt sure i released the nutrient pack. In the end i had to do a small hole with a pin and release the CO2, which makes easier to find the nutrient pack and Smash it..
    thanks for any tip
     
  17. jmcnamara

    jmcnamara Well-Known Member

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    #17 jmcnamara, Oct 25, 2017
    The yeast has mostly settled so its on the bottom. There should be a creamy layer, thats the yeasties.
    You can leave it like that till youre ready to use it. You could even decant off most of the liquid and use just the slurry
     
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  18. Gledison

    Gledison Active Member

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    #18 Gledison, Oct 25, 2017
    Bah! Good that i asked;). 90% oft the volume is a clear liquid and little yeast in the bottom;)
     
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  19. jmcnamara

    jmcnamara Well-Known Member

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    #19 jmcnamara, Oct 25, 2017
    Lol. Maybe consider a starter before the next batch...:rolleyes:
     
  20. Gledison

    Gledison Active Member

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    #20 Gledison, Oct 25, 2017
    In the pack information says that there's enough yeast for 20liters. Its a 125 ml pack. I used 62 ml for my 10 liters and saved the rest.
     
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