This is a VERY general rule, and you won't find it anywhere else, but if you have a fermentation lock, check the number of bubbles per minute regularly. Once the number of bubbles per minute reaches a peak (usually about the time the krausen starts to drop), make a SG measurement 2 days later...

Even though it tastes like S**T, the four X's in Castlemaine XXXX actually refer to the strength of the ale. It was used as a grading system a century ago. Oddly, although they originally produced ales, now they produce lagers and the four X's no longer apply in the original sense.

We didn't have as much time or opportunity to try out different beers there.I do remember an Emerson's Pilsner from Dunedin, and a New Zealand Lager from Independent Breweries in Papakura. Of course we also tried the Hobbiton Ale (an English Bitter) in the Green Dragon, Hobbiton (Matamata). One...

That would explain it! Can't say I enjoyed any. The lagers I did try all tasted like ales - at least several contained citrus-like hops, especially Cascade hops. What a way to ruin a good lager!

I find that hard to believe. Most (almost all) of the beer menus that I saw in Australia were for ales, not lagers. An exception was Castlemaine XXXX, another major producer.

Any good ones in the Melbourne area? My son moved there last year and is still looking for some good pubs.

Didn't anyone other than Jeff notice it was an April Fool's joke?

Perth, Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney, Hobart, Geelong, Canberra, Brisbane, Bendigo, Port Macquarie, Coff's Harbour, Byron Bay, etc. I can't say that I made a strong effort to find beers, but just checked as I went along. Many bars told me they don't carry Pilsners, and many thought sour beers were...

When you think about it, by denaturing the enzymes, all you're doing is preventing further conversion. But further conversion seems to be no issue - in fact, wouldn't it help increase efficiency? Thus I wonder why the concern about denaturing in the first place. As for heating the husks for more...

But you always wonder if it could come out 'better' :-)

I've also heard it's not as big a factor as it usually was suspected of being. Are there any recent studies confirming this?

I was more concerned about denaturing the enzymes, which doesn't occur until the temperature is about 170 or higher. My mash tun isn't large enough to add enough sparge water to heat it up to 170, even if I add boiling water. The best I can do is in the low 160's. Thus I need to get the drained...

Thank you - great answers!

I also have difficulty raising my mash temperature to 170 with infusions. The best I can usually get is in the low 160's. I generally try to sparge and drain and quickly put the pot on the fire. It's good to know that I can leave it at about 158 for some time. Is 15 minutes enough?

Do you heat your mash on a stove, or is this done with infusions? I'm surprised that 34/70 comes out that good - I always assumed that one should use liquid yeasts for the best lagers. Why do you cover the mash with aluminum foil? I can see why you would poke holes in it later, but why cover it...

Thanks, JA, I've never done it that way before. I assume you just infuse the mash with near boiling water to raise it to 158 or so? I understand that WLP838 (or Wyeast 2308) also works reasonably well with this type of lager (I'm not able to obtain WLP860 here).

How long a mash and a dextrin rest would you recommend? Also, which yeast would you recommend for this style?

I had one that also dripped, but if you tighten it up again (twist and tighten top), the dripping stops

I'm still using picnic taps. I have the other taps, but see no reason to update.

Everything you are doing is right in line with good practices. In terms of fermentation, the range is nothing at all to worry about, but if you can stabilize the temperature even more (keeping it under 21 C would be ideal), that would be an improvement.