No-Sparge BW Recipe - Pls Help

mrhappy

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Hi folks!

For my first all-grain recipe I decided to make it simple on myself and do a no-sparge barley wine, with the second runnings going into a Mild or Bitter.

First - what do you think of the BW recipe? Should I dry-hop? If I do, I was thinking American Cascade.

Second - do you know how to calculate the gravity of the 1st and 2nd runnings?

Thanks, Rene'

http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/r ... can-barley
 
I wouldn't dry hop - hops aren't the defining characteristic of a barley wine, malt is. And I'd take a look at the hop bill - 90+ IBUs may be a bit over the top. As to calculating the runnings - not sure. But good luck with it!
 
I agree, no dry hop. I would skip the 30min Willamette addition and do an ounce each of the Cascade and Willamette at 5min to get a little hop flavor.
 
a barley wine is not an ipa, I think you should read up on what it really is, its more of an thrown allot in and age it beer, not hoppy at all, some people age these for a year and the ending hop will fade any way because the malt will shine more, you can do what you want "its your beer" but I would use the hops more on the second runnings
 
Also due to the high gravity, a BW isn't the best candidate for no sparge. You end up leaving a massive amount of sugar in the tun especially with higher gravity beers. Hold on a second, at the end of the recipe it says this:

2/3 of sugar in first running = 1.095
1/3 of sugar in second runnings = 1.045

No sparge is just that, no sparge. If you're taking second running then you're sparging. Read this fantastic article. My generate rule of thumb is no sparge for gravities under 1070 and batch sparge anything over.

http://home.roadrunner.com/~brewbeer/fi ... parge.html
 
To be more specific, I don't plan to sparge for the American Barleywine. I plan to use the first runnings only which I am estimating at around 1.095 based on a rule of thumb I just found of 2/3 : 1/3.

I do plan to batch sparge the grain to get the additional sugar to make a 3gl English Bitter (I plan to add some 60L Crystal before adding the batch sparge water).

Thanks for the article link.

Rene'
 
Quality Home Brew said:
a barley wine is not an ipa, I think you should read up on what it really is, its more of an thrown allot in and age it beer, not hoppy at all, some people age these for a year and the ending hop will fade any way because the malt will shine more, you can do what you want "its your beer" but I would use the hops more on the second runnings

Based on what I have read, the American Barleywine has a lot of hops so that after the IBUs fade during the long aging the remaining bitterness will balance the malt and alcohol.

That is why I was shooting for an IBU/OG of around 1. Based on a BYO article, the IBU/OG for an American Barleywine should around .7-1.0 (based on my recollection). Even Brewers Friend has the American BW profile at:
O.G.: 1.08-1.12
IBUs: 50-120

Which gives a huge range for IBU/OG of .42 to 1.5. Just choosing the low end for the 1.08 and the high end from the 1.12 you get close to what I think I read in BYO: .625 - 1.0.

I made a couple of changes based on y'alls comments.

Thanks, Rene'
 
ebstauffer said:
http://home.roadrunner.com/~brewbeer/files/nbsparge.html

I have read that article before but I could not follow his thinking all the way through.

I clicked on the George Fix article in the references section of that article, and Dr Fix says that you should increase your grain bill by a factor of 4/3 to make a beer using no-sparge technique (I remember using that rule of thumb 15 years ago when I made a no-sparge Dopplebock in a friends system).

I will create a recipe to hit 1.09 OG and then scale the grain bill by 4/3 and see if I am close to my recipe.

Thanks for the link!!!
Thanks Dr Fix (RIP)!!!
Rene
 

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