BIAB Whisky finished IPA

ferguson9112

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Hey everyone,

I am making a BIAB batch with my 32L Kettle, I would like your opinion if my calculations are ok:


HOME BREW RECIPE:
Title: Pale ale whisky finish

Brew Method: BIAB
Style Name: American IPA
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 20 liters (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 25 liters
Boil Gravity: 1.056
Efficiency: 70% (brew house)


STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.070
Final Gravity: 1.010
ABV (standard): 7.9%
IBU (tinseth): 72.26
SRM (morey): 5.87

FERMENTABLES:
5.8 kg - Canadian - Pale 2-Row (92.1%)
0.5 kg - Brown Sugar (7.9%)

HOPS:
17.5 g - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 10, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 20.98
15 g - Chinook, Type: Pellet, AA: 13, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 23.38
17.5 g - Chinook, Type: Pellet, AA: 13, Use: Boil for 30 min, IBU: 20.96
17.5 g - Crystal, Type: Pellet, AA: 4.3, Use: Boil for 30 min, IBU: 6.93
17.5 g - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 10, Use: Aroma for 0 min
25 g - Chinook, Type: Pellet, AA: 13, Use: Aroma for 0 min
17.5 g - Crystal, Type: Pellet, AA: 4.3, Use: Aroma for 0 min
17.5 g - Waimea, Type: Pellet, AA: 17.5, Use: Aroma for 0 min

MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Infusion, Temp: 65 C, Time: 75 min, Amount: 25 L, brew in a bag

OTHER INGREDIENTS:
60 g - oak chips, Time: 0 min, Type: Other, Use: Secondary
3 oz - peated whisky, Time: 0 min, Type: Other, Use: Other

YEAST:
Fermentis / Safale - American Ale Yeast US-05
Starter: No
Form: Dry
Attenuation (avg): 81%
Flocculation: Medium
Optimum Temp: 12.22 - 25 C
Fermentation Temp: 20 C



NOTES:
add whisky to oak chips at start of primary in a jar. Dump the entire result in the secondary 7 days before end.
 
So that grain bill is going to leave you with a fairly dry seeming beer. May be what you're after...
 
I imagine removing the brown sugar could help remove the ''dryness'' ? I added it in my recipe in case my OG was not on point.

Aiming for an 8 or 9% pale ale
 
I'd lose the brown sugar and add a good percentage of Munich and a touch of Crystal or Victory for some malty, toasty, caramel notes so that the malt side of the flavor profile can better balance that fairly strident hop schedule. Not sure what the Waimea will contribute but the C-hops are going to give some big piney, dank, flora, citrus that'll be perfect for a robust, old-school NW-style IPA.
 
I'd lose the brown sugar and add a good percentage of Munich and a touch of Crystal or Victory for some malty, toasty, caramel notes so that the malt side of the flavor profile can better balance that fairly strident hop schedule. Not sure what the Waimea will contribute but the C-hops are going to give some big piney, dank, flora, citrus that'll be perfect for a robust, old-school NW-style IPA.

I might actually do that, I am going to the city this weekend so i will buy more grain. Percentage wise, what is the best way to figure this out
 
As i understand it, you want the pale malt to be around 80%, and fill the rest with other stuff, like the munich, vienna, c-10-c-30 depending on the colour you are going for.
 
I tend to do 80 to 85% base malt with around 10% Munich and 5% or so of Crystal-type malt and maybe a few percent here and there of stuff for color or flavor. A ratio of 85% Pilsner, 10% Munich and 5% Victory has been a go-to for hoppy pales for me. For a bigger IPA I tend to use something pretty similar but the base malt between Pilsner and Pale and add a little Honey Malt or Crystal 40 or Special Roast, depending on hop profile.
 

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