Pilsner issues

That's a great hop combination. I'm a big fan of the Tettnanger, especially for my Kolsch.
Things should be settled down by now. Different yeasts can make a huge difference in the flavor of the beer. Unless you're tasting something that makes the beer less palatable, my guess is that the Pilsner yeast produces a pretty different flavor than the Bavarian yeast that you're used to. That might account for some of what you're experiencing. Good Pilsners to me tend to be sharp-flavored and crisp and really show off the hop flavor. Other lagers tend to be a little smoother with a maltier profile. You might try brewing the same thing again with a slightly different temperature profile (slightly higher for primary fermentation) and see if you get different results.
Good luck!! :)
 
Agree. I've used Saaz and Tett for all my pilsners. I wondered if the pilsner yeast might be a different experience than all my previous batches. I still have it lagering and plan to bottle it. Thanks for your input. It's great having this help!
 
I don't believe it's diacetyl (not buttery or butterscotch) at all. For all the other pilsners I brewed, I'd pitch then place at 45 degrees for the first two weeks, bring to ~65 degrees for 24-48 hours, rack, then ferm at 35 degrees for ~6-7 weeks. I had preciously used a Bavarian lager yeast (WyEast 2206 smackpac), but decided this time to do a solid Pilsen grain bill with the Pilsen yeast (Wyeast 2007). The yeast prior to pitching was not as vigorous as the Bavarian, so that's why I left it out at 65 degrees before lagering at 45. In hindsight, I should have just started the lagering process and repitched another Pilsen if activity didn't start. I'd like to provide more of an explanation of the taste, but it's something I haven't experienced before. I think you may be on to something with the sulfur. I pulled 5 bottles off and retunred the carboy to 35 degrees hoping I could ferm my way out of this. Always hopeful!

Hi , I'm new here. I have brewed many AG pilsners but have not used that particular yeast. The sulfur smell is definitely a bi-product of pilsner fermentation and will disappear as fermentation completes. It can get really bad and make you wonder as it's fermenting. .066 is pretty big for a pilsner, never done one that big, but .017 is not finished. Mine generally finish @ .009. I've used wyeast 2001, 2124, and safale 34/70. All with good results. I prefer the 2124, it makes a great german pils, tettnang/hallertau/perle, throws a lot of sulfur when fermenting though. But cleans up amazingly. The dry safale 34/70 is supposedly the same yeast as 2124 and does produce a very similar beer, but the 2124 is just a bit better imo. I've done the wyeast batches with and without starters, never had a problem either way. The safale I've just rehydrated with no problems. I've wondered to myself If I were to reuse the safale yeast a time or two if it would become more like the 2124 from wyeast. Iiwy, I would hold the beer @ 50 until the gravity comes down to at least .011 then rack to keg or secondary and lager @ 40 or less for at least 3-4 weeks. Or I would take it out and do a D rest for a couple days and let it finish that way. You are past the diacetal production stage I think, which happens early on.
 
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Actually I'm brewing a 16.5 gallon batch of German Pilsner right now lol. It's why this thread caught my eye. It general takes 3 weeks for mine to complete fermentation, or at least clean up, I generally leave them for 4 weeks with a rest near the 2.5-3 weeks before racking to kegs and lagering. With a starter fementaion starts a couple days sooner. My favorite go to pilsner is bitter w/ magnum for ~15.5 ibu @ 60 to go, Tett and hallertau @ 15 for ~8.5 IBU ea, Hallertau and perle @ 5 or less mins @ half as much hops by weight as previous addition, then whirlpool with the same amount of hallertau as the last addition. I shoot for around 35-38 ibu's and 5%abv. Good luck with your pilsner, I bet it will come out fine.
 
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great
Hi , I'm new here. I have brewed many AG pilsners but have not used that particular yeast. The sulfur smell is definitely a bi-product of pilsner fermentation and will disappear as fermentation completes. It can get really bad and make you wonder as it's fermenting. .066 is pretty big for a pilsner, never done one that big, but .017 is not finished. Mine generally finish @ .009. I've used wyeast 2001, 2124, and safale 34/70. All with good results. I prefer the 2124, it makes a great german pils, tettnang/hallertau/perle, throws a lot of sulfur when fermenting though. But cleans up amazingly. The dry safale 34/70 is supposedly the same yeast as 2124 and does produce a very similar beer, but the 2124 is just a bit better imo. I've done the wyeast batches with and without starters, never had a problem either way. The safale I've just rehydrated with no problems. I've wondered to myself If I were to reuse the safale yeast a time or two if it would become more like the 2124 from wyeast. Iiwy, I would hold the beer @ 50 until the gravity comes down to at least .011 then rack to keg or secondary and lager @ 40 or less for at least 3-4 weeks. Or I would take it out and do a D rest for a couple days and let it finish that way. You are past the diacetal production stage I think, which happens early on.
Great input, thanks! Definitely changes to my brew strategy for the next round. I'll let you know what happens.
 
Actually I'm brewing a 16.5 gallon batch of German Pilsner right now lol. It's why this thread caught my eye. It general takes 3 weeks for mine to complete fermentation, or at least clean up, I generally leave them for 4 weeks with a rest near the 2.5-3 weeks before racking to kegs and lagering. With a starter fementaion starts a couple days sooner. My favorite go to pilsner is bitter w/ magnum for ~15.5 ibu @ 60 to go, Tett and hallertau @ 15 for ~8.5 IBU ea, Hallertau and perle @ 5 or less mins @ half as much hops by weight as previous addition, then whirlpool with the same amount of hallertau as the last addition. I shoot for around 35-38 ibu's and 5%abv. Good luck with your pilsner, I bet it will come out fine.
Fingers crossed! I like your approach and hop selection.
 
Well all this talk of crisp hoppy pilsners has got me thinking I'll join the fray and brew one this weekend. What's your go to malt back bone for this ?
Off my Last pils I went Pilsner malt 3.5 kg .5kg Munich light and 100g acidulated.
 
It is that time of year :)

I like the idea of putting some munich in there for some body in lieu of something else. I'm using around 2.5% C10 and 5% carapils w/ german 2 row at this point. Works well, but I'm always tweeking it. I think my hbs has weyermann's, I've used them, best malz and another one. One thing I like to do is make a light clean ale hopped like a pils w/ american grain and US-05, mo faux pils. Lagering is a pita when you have 1 freezer and it's the kegerator. But it's certainly not the same and hence we brew more pilsner
 
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My grain bill was 6.5 # Belgian Pilsner, 3.5# American Pilsner, 0.5 Flaked corn, 2 oz Saaz (30 min), 1 oz Tett (20 min), WyEast Pilsen 2007, 5.5 gallon batch with 3.5 gallon boil. Given my 'issue' with the yeast I used, I may go with some of the suggestions the forum has provided.
 
I'm going to try the grain bill I mentioned with 34/70 last time I used an ale yeast wlp090 and it turned out fine thought I'd give it a run with 34/70 and see which one I prefer.
 
I'm going to try the grain bill I mentioned with 34/70 last time I used an ale yeast wlp090 and it turned out fine thought I'd give it a run with 34/70 and see which one I prefer.
I may try it as well since you've had success with it. I have your grain adds but what was your boil/final volume and (here's my ignorance) what is 100 gm acidulated?
 
I may try it as well since you've had success with it. I have your grain adds but what was your boil/final volume and (here's my ignorance) what is 100 gm acidulated?
The 100g Weyermann acidulated malt to bring down my mash ph to around 5.2-3 ph range. I did have carapils in that recipe too but after reading a brulosophy exbeerment on its head retention qualities I thought I'd test it with this pils and see for myself. A perfect way to test too as nothing but pils and Munich in the malt bill. Here's the recipe below I haven't changed it yet to sub out the carapils and the different yeast cheers
http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/415755/t-b-pilsner
 

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