Thinking about changing from Electric to Gas

nah, a resistor would reduce wattage used, so it would save power. the problem is that a 1000+W fixed resistor would be the size of large radiator. not sure you could find a light dimmer that would control that much power

a PWM controler coupled with an SSR would work better and be alot smaller.
Great idea, but perhaps a little more complicated than a bang-bang controller and circulation with a reasonably sized element under it to control temperature. When the mashing's done, I can still use the same kettle on top of the dragon to get to boiling a lot faster. It's about the time, not the temperature when boiling. Boiling is boiling. Rate affects reduction, but the liquid can only go to boiling temperature. Any higher, it becomes steam, which is not something you're gonna get into a bottle or keg. Solid, liquid, gas. Basic chemistry, physics, and thermodynamics apply.

I'm eyeballing a blue-tooth version of a controller that I can possibly automate from remote. It would be nice to have something that I fill up, plug up, and turn on without having to drag out the burner and propane bottle, and can even be put up on top of the brew bench to save my old back a little straining.

I can see myself building a control panel with multiple controllers in it. Little bang-bangs are pretty cheap, really.
 
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I can see myself building a control panel with multiple controllers in it. Little bang-bangs are pretty cheap, really.
If you're looking for fittings and electric heating elements. The folks at brewhardware.com are great and they carry a wide range of bits.
 
Exactly why i like the three 1500 Watt set up on mine. Spreads the heat out and they don't get as hot as a single 4500 watt would. Plus once it is boiling, i turn off 2 of the elements. 1500 watts will keep it boiling just fine
Three times the failure points and cost. I used the 5500W 240v ULWD element that has 60 to 75 watts per inch. one cheap PID and SSR to control it.
 
nah, a resistor would reduce wattage used, so it would save power. the problem is that a 1000+W fixed resistor would be the size of large radiator. not sure you could find a light dimmer that would control that much power

a PWM controler coupled with an SSR would work better and be alot smaller.
Agree, the best answer is a pwm controller.

That resistor drops wattage as heat. Maybe ok in winter, a real waste in summer.
 
As for mashing I use the standard Rubbermaid (in US) or IGLOO (in UK) plastic Orange Mash Tun.
When starting the mash I add the mash water at 70+ C and get the mash to 69C after stirring and adjusting the temperature with hot/cold water. I have a temperature probe that I aim to keep near the centre of the volume of mash and I screw up the lid.

I can see the temperature does not change over the hour by about 1C over the whole hour. No need to have any complicated boiler or PID adjusted heat source.. The temperature is stable enough over the whole mash time.
Is the electric mash tun over complicating the process?

iu
 
Three times the failure points and cost. I used the 5500W 240v ULWD element that has 60 to 75 watts per inch. one cheap PID and SSR to control it.
or 3x the redudancy. yours fails once and you are done. :p

(my elements cost $7, I dont care)
 
Agree, the best answer is a pwm controller.

That resistor drops wattage as heat. Maybe ok in winter, a real waste in summer.
I was just poking fun mostly. :cool:
you wouldnt ever use a 1000W resistor.
 
As for mashing I use the standard Rubbermaid (in US) or IGLOO (in UK) plastic Orange Mash Tun.
When starting the mash I add the mash water at 70+ C and get the mash to 69C after stirring and adjusting the temperature with hot/cold water. I have a temperature probe that I aim to keep near the centre of the volume of mash and I screw up the lid.

I can see the temperature does not change over the hour by about 1C over the whole hour. No need to have any complicated boiler or PID adjusted heat source.. The temperature is stable enough over the whole mash time.
Is the electric mash tun over complicating the process?

iu
Maybe and question is it really that necessary to be able to control mash temp to within .3c NO:D.

I think we just like to geek out on these things if we can I know you've got some pretty cool little diy projects in your brewery Alan:).

Step mashing is easy with electric I find and if you want a really slow ramp to your next saccrification step you can turn down the wattage on the element so it takes 20mins .

I think doing the whole Hombrew process in the one vessels that plays mash tun and boil kettle is the GO heck maybe I should try fermentation in mine I think I've just got another comparrison brew lol:p!
 
I was just poking fun mostly. :cool:
you wouldnt ever use a 1000W resistor.
These pids also have the PWM built into them no I saw yours did?

I can't control the wattage with my current inkbird itc pid but honestly with that ULWD element I don't need to.
Man I've touched it heaps whilst cleaning out the brew kettle and it doesn't even feel that hot.
 
These pids also have the PWM built into them no I saw yours did?

I can't control the wattage with my current inkbird itc pid but honestly with that ULWD element I don't need to.
Man I've touched it heaps whilst cleaning out the brew kettle and it doesn't even feel that hot.
generally they are either PWM or analog. depends on the unit.

ya, the PID I have is PWM for the fermentation station. my mash/boil setup is a quasi-PWM. it is actually PWM in software, so the pulses are not very strictly regulated. for controling heat in large amount of water over long periods of time it doesnt have to be
 
generally they are either PWM or analog. depends on the unit.

ya, the PID I have is PWM for the fermentation station. my mash/boil setup is a quasi-PWM. it is actually PWM in software, so the pulses are not very strictly regulated. for controling heat in large amount of water over long periods of time it doesnt have to be
Ah so it pulses the element ok interesting.
 
As for mashing I use the standard Rubbermaid (in US) or IGLOO (in UK) plastic Orange Mash Tun.
When starting the mash I add the mash water at 70+ C and get the mash to 69C after stirring and adjusting the temperature with hot/cold water. I have a temperature probe that I aim to keep near the centre of the volume of mash and I screw up the lid.

I can see the temperature does not change over the hour by about 1C over the whole hour. No need to have any complicated boiler or PID adjusted heat source.. The temperature is stable enough over the whole mash time.
Is the electric mash tun over complicating the process?

iu

I'm with you, maybe even worse.
I got water up to temp, put bag with grains in it and move pan & bag inside a coolerbox lined with duvets. I don't loose much heat, although starting temp varies a little
 
Agree, the best answer is a pwm controller.

That resistor drops wattage as heat. Maybe ok in winter, a real waste in summer.
Agreed, just thinking about using some things I already have (scraps from startups and repair jobs). I'm a packrat, always have been. I already had all the wiring and interposing relays, and I built the box for my fridgadeezer controller from scratch using leftover materials. If I think I can use it again, I typically save it somehow. How else do I fill up a 24x36 tractor shed the first day after I get the doors on it?

There's always a better way. Usually, there's at least 5 better ways if you ask 5 different engineers.
I was just poking fun mostly. :cool:
you wouldnt ever use a 1000W resistor.
Maybe not for home use. But if you're putting in dynamic braking resistors on a 5000HP Synchronous motor, yup, they're pretty big. I'll give you three guesses where my large resistors came from and the first two don't count.
 
Agreed, just thinking about using some things I already have (scraps from startups and repair jobs). I'm a packrat, always have been. I already had all the wiring and interposing relays, and I built the box for my fridgadeezer controller from scratch using leftover materials. If I think I can use it again, I typically save it somehow. How else do I fill up a 24x36 tractor shed the first day after I get the doors on it?

There's always a better way. Usually, there's at least 5 better ways if you ask 5 different engineers.

Maybe not for home use. But if you're putting in dynamic braking resistors on a 5000HP Synchronous motor, yup, they're pretty big. I'll give you three guesses where my large resistors came from and the first two don't count.
We had some 3500w resistors for RF dummy loads. Needed an engine hoist to move em
 
Maybe and question is it really that necessary to be able to control mash temp to within .3c NO:D.

I think we just like to geek out on these things if we can I know you've got some pretty cool little diy projects in your brewery Alan:).

Step mashing is easy with electric I find and if you want a really slow ramp to your next saccrification step you can turn down the wattage on the element so it takes 20mins .

I think doing the whole Hombrew process in the one vessels that plays mash tun and boil kettle is the GO heck maybe I should try fermentation in mine I think I've just got another comparrison brew lol:p!

Yeah, the one vessel (kettle) for brewing thing is what I was shooting for.

For now, one vessel lets me mash/sparge, and boil (with temporary storage in a re-purposed fermenting bucket), with little else but rinsing the kettle in between to get rid of spent grain residue. I'm even closer to my compost heap since I moved out to the shed for brewing, so it takes me only about 5 minutes to dump the spent grains and rinse out the kettle for boil. A second kettle would be the cat's pajamas as a dedicated mash tun that I could use to actually control the heat with. That would also let me start the boil while I cleaned the mash tun. Something to do while watching the pot boil, if you get my reference.

If my energy costs were prohibitive, I'd possibly look at the Igloo as an alternative. But those things are $100 plus if you buy them ready-made, nearly that if you DIY with stainless fittings. The next issue I have with them is if the wort cools down while mashing or sparging, or if a step mashing process is needed for the recipe. Most anything works for batch sparging, but the temperature control leaves some to be desired and some educated guesswork is required to keep the temperature in line based on heat absorption of the cooler cold versus hot. The wort cannot be reheated in the plastic mash tun, IMO. Some will tell me I'm wrong I know, but I'm a victim of Murphy's law on more than one occasion. Snake bit is a good term, gun-shy is another. If it's possible for something bad to happen, it probably will if I'm involved. An immersion heater in the mash would possibly do the trick, but there's a lot of risk of melting the liner. I don't put hot metal things in plastic if there's a possibility of melting the plastic. The food-grade plastic buckets are fine with boiling liquid, but I don't want a heating element hanging in one of those either.

If I use an external hotplate, then I can put the kettle on it and have the mashing temperature control as well as my boiling source. Is it as efficient as an immersion heater? Probably not. Is the efficiency difference or an additional piece of hardware enough to change my mind? No. Will the sum total cost of what I have be higher than an All-In-One? Possibly, but I've already have a lot of it which I will have no other purpose for. I'm trying to maintain serviceability and make any single part of it relatively inexpensive to replace should the worst happen.

The PID/PWM controllers are not expensive, so that looks to be the direction I'm headed. It won't be my first rodeo with PIDs, especially in a heating process that takes a long time to change. I don't have to worry about scorching with direct contact of the wort on the heating element, and if I do somehow scorch it, I've got a flat surface to clean the caramelized sugars off of and don't have to take anything apart. I try to plan for worst case scenarios with all the different issues in mind. I just like the idea of keeping the pot flat and unobstructed on the bottom with the fewest number of piercings as possible, especially weldless fittings. That may require an extra doo-dad or gadget, but it also keeps the sum of the parts more flexible for process changes.
 
Thinking about a Stepped mash how about this as a method to adjust the mash temperature over time...

Assuming the initial mash staring point of 67C the PID to pump the hot water through the re-purposed cooling
coil so that it heats the mash to the next temperature step. Obviously a good stir is required for each step to be good
across the whole batch.

I have no idea if it will work, Any suggestions? Adjustments? Problems?

The advantage (if you can call it that ) is that the mash thickness will not be altered by the usual method of adding hot water for each step,

upload_2022-11-15_22-8-31.png
 
Thinking about a Stepped mash how about this as a method to adjust the mash temperature over time...

Assuming the initial mash staring point of 67C the PID to pump the hot water through the re-purposed cooling
coil so that it heats the mash to the next temperature step. Obviously a good stir is required for each step to be good
across the whole batch.

I have no idea if it will work, Any suggestions? Adjustments? Problems?

The advantage (if you can call it that ) is that the mash thickness will not be altered by the usual method of adding hot water for each step,

View attachment 23095
A fellow brewer nearby does exactly that. He has hot water and circulates it as you show to maintain or increase the temperature. He has a second pump for continuous recirculation so he doesn't have to stir.
 
If I think I can use it again, I typically save it somehow. How else do I fill up a 24x36 tractor shed the first day after I get the doors on it?

.
I also keep things. Not to save money by not having to buy it again, but to have it in stock when I need it. Emergencies happen, and I was once a boy scout.
 
Thinking about a Stepped mash how about this as a method to adjust the mash temperature over time...

Assuming the initial mash staring point of 67C the PID to pump the hot water through the re-purposed cooling
coil so that it heats the mash to the next temperature step. Obviously a good stir is required for each step to be good
across the whole batch.

I have no idea if it will work, Any suggestions? Adjustments? Problems?

The advantage (if you can call it that ) is that the mash thickness will not be altered by the usual method of adding hot water for each step,

View attachment 23095
Almost like a Herms but in reverse the coil is in the mash not the HLT. It could work but I honestly think the coil is gunna be a royal bastard with the grain in there as well.

Why not reverse the situation and put the coil in the HLT and then just pump the wort through the coil.
Use a Biab bag In the Tun to catch the grain.

What think ye my man?
 

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