small batch brewers: what do you do?

[Zambi]

With yeast for instance...
Almost all packs of dry yeast are for 20 litres. How much do you use for your batch size and what do you do with the left-overs (if any)?

I've mainly been using Kveik Voss so far and just put a little per batch (6-7 litres end volume) as it is such a beast.
But temperatures are dropping and I am looking at other yeasts

 

[Semper Sitientem]

I brew 3 gallon batches and almost always use S-04 or US-05 because of their temperature tolerance since the one deficiency in my process if fermentation temp control. I use 1/2 packet for each batch and vacuum seal the remainder to be stored in the fridge.

 

[Megary]

For 3 gallons into the fermenter, I have always pitched a full pack of yeast. I probably should pitch 1/2 pack like @Semper Sitientem, but because I use a lot of different yeasts (dry and liquid), I would never be disciplined enough to manage so many open packs.

 

[oliver]

I brew 2.5 at home, I always pitch the entire pack of yeast, often only using dry yeast variants these days. Anecdotally, I have noticed that I have far less lag time and overall shorter fermentation time. Maturation time is still similar to 5 gallon batches, though.

If I'm going high gravity or doing any lager fermentation, I'll build a pack of dry yeast on a starter, and add the entire starter volume into the batch. Lag time for lagers is significantly decreased, as I see activity start within 6-12 hours usually, and a 52ºF fermentation finishing its sugar depletion within 5 days, plus/minus 1.

Also anecdotally, I've noticed significantly less blowoff issues, even with more aggressive bloomers like Hefe and Kveik.

I like overpitching, haven't seen any negative effects yet, only produced positive results and healthier fermentation.

 

[Viejos Cañones]

I see that it uses a low fermentation temperature and possibly that is the reason for very active yeasts to slow down. At those temperatures forced to place more yeast. Its reproduction slows down a lot, so for this reason there are not many esters. Thank you for sharing your experience,
I never ferment Voss below 19C (65F). It also has to do with the size of the batch..

Best regards

 

[Josh Hughes]

I brew 2-2.5 gallons and pitch the entire pack. When using slurry I use the calculator for pitching.

 

[Zambi]

Intetesting:
I would be tempted to use half a pack for volumes up to about 10 litres (slightly over 2.5 gallon).
I wonder if I would be able to manage half pack OK, like Oliver and Megary allude to.
So far, I got 1/2 pack of saison left. I've put it in a zip lock bag in the freezer.
I keep all yeast in the freezer.

Does anyone make like 2 batches in a weekend or so? Half yeast to one, other to the next, maybe slightly different recipe?

And BIAB for all small batchers?

 

[Steve Ruch]

I brew three gallon batches and just throw in the whole pack.
FYI: Muntons comes in six gram packs.

 

[Sunfire96]

For small batches I mostly used Fermentis or Lallemand dry yeast. I would divide the total amount for my batch size, for instance a 1 gallon batch I would weight out 12g/5, then put a tight rubber band around the pack and put it in the freezer. 2.5 gallons would get half a pack, with the rest stored in the freezer tightly sealed. This is all based on the manufacturer recommended dosing rate of 12 g yeast per 5 gallons wort

 

[Herm brews]

It’s been a long time since I used any dry yeast, but when I did, I used a whole packet for 2.5 gallons. Using liquid yeast, I use the calculator to estimate cell counts, then pitch or build a starter if necessary. With slurry, it’s kind of a guessing game, but the calculator helps in that situation.
I need to brew some beer. None brewed in this month of April. Will be going to Oregon for a week in May, but I will try to squeeze in a couple batches around travel.

 

[Viejos Cañones]

When we make wine we buy packages of yeast that last for the week and weigh what we need according to the volume of the tank to be fermented. Sometimes due to rain the harvest is not carried out and the entry of the same is prolonged until it again has the sugar tenor. I we have had no problem
with yeast. Wrap the package with Film strech and freezer. We try to supply the necessary amount for every 250l to ferment according to the tank. Two reasons one economic, and fermentation without complications, since the excess of yeast causes stress and begin the deviations in the fermentation. But everything as I said depends on the amount of wort to ferment, fermentation temperature.

 

[Mark Farrall]

I generally pitch the whole thing. I used to only pitch half the pack for low ABV beers and wrap it up and put it in the fridge for various experiments, but I just forget these days and pitch it all in. I keep hearing that the chances of a homebrewer creating the downsides of overpitching are pretty small. We could do it with slurries, but not retail packs.

 

[Bubba Wade]

I typically use packets of US-05, S-05, BE-256, T-58, and Belle Saison. For each of my 2.5 gallon batches, I use 1/2 packet. I carefully roll the envelope with the remaining yeast up tight, put a bit of tape on it to seal, and place back in the refrigerator for storage. I will sometimes go 3-4 months before using the 2nd half of the packet. I have had no issues with this method for the last 75 batches or so.

 

[Over The Cliff Brewing]

I have been using the whole pack for 2.5 gal batches lately. I also harvest the yeasts I use. I have a mash up of harvested yeast, half packets, quarter pkg of yeast. As long as it is sealed and kept cold I don't worry of spoilage.

 

[Zambi]

I got 3 open.packs now
Kveik Voss
French Saison
T 58
I'm thinking of using either the French Saison or the T 58 for my primitive cider (of plain apple juice)

 

[Over The Cliff Brewing]

I got 3 open.packs now
Kveik Voss
French Saison
T 58
I'm thinking of using either the French Saison or the T 58 for my primitive cider (of plain apple juice)

I have used T-58 on a cider. For the first few days the sulfur like funk is off-putting. It does fade but not completely. Taste was good once you got past the funk.

 

[Zambi]

Other question:
How do you all measure gravity?
I tend to use a hydrometer some 15 minutes or so before boil ends, so I can dump my sample back in the wort.
And refracto meter readings afterwards.
Although with Voss, I just bottle after about a week (depending on temps) and take a refracto reading with the little bit left in the bucket.
Close to 100 ml for a hydrometer reading is a lot compared to my batch size

 

[oliver]

Other question:
How do you all measure gravity?
I tend to use a hydrometer some 15 minutes or so before boil ends, so I can dump my sample back in the wort.
And refracto meter readings afterwards.
Although with Voss, I just bottle after about a week (depending on temps) and take a refracto reading with the little bit left in the bucket.
Close to 100 ml for a hydrometer reading is a lot compared to my batch size

I only use a reflectometer on brew day. I check it once in a while against a hydrometer and it's still accurate, just calibrate with the screwdriver before each use.

on kegging day I use an inline filter, and the cup holds approximately 100ml, so once the transfer is finished, the cup sample is perfect for hydrometer. I never use refractometer after it's alcohol.

 

[Megary]

Other question:
How do you all measure gravity?
I tend to use a hydrometer some 15 minutes or so before boil ends, so I can dump my sample back in the wort.
And refracto meter readings afterwards.
Although with Voss, I just bottle after about a week (depending on temps) and take a refracto reading with the little bit left in the bucket.
Close to 100 ml for a hydrometer reading is a lot compared to my batch size

I use a hydrometer to take a PRE-boil gravity reading. To me, this is the most important measurement. If this reading is way off, it gives me an opportunity to adjust as necessary, on the fly.

I use a hydrometer to take a POST-boil gravity reading, just to make sure my OG is in line. But I already know it will be thanks to my first reading.

I use a hydrometer after 2 weeks of fermentation (and as I'm kegging) to measure FG. This is really just for record keeping, I suppose. I'll note the ABV and what kind of attenuation I got from the yeast. File the information away.

All hydrometer samples are tasted and then dumped. I just factor that into my system losses.

 

[Zambi]

I bottle and don't want to loose even half a bottle
I use the refractometer at the end ( if I think it is necessary) to assess bottling time more than exact reading.
same figure, couple days apart, fermentation is finished and I can bottle.