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Well, as long as it is just a line voltage signal to power the coil in a relay, I see no reason to further debate the subject!
 
Nothing strictly brewing related but I think I may have to build myself a brewery sign. Did a bunch of scroll work training this weekend and thought this looked particularly cool.
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It's a lot of fun. And helps me burn off the calories from this hobby. :) I will say with absolute certainty that this forum is a much better learning environment than the smithing ones I found. I've decided I'll stick to books for that and the local smith who sells me supplies.
 
They should put a "No Newbies" warning on the top of their forum. I'm so glad BF is as friendly and welcoming as it is (as long as we stay away from politics that is ;)). Hopefully if I ever get to be that crabby old guy snapping at the newbies, someone will remind me I was once the newbie! If that doesn't work then give me my pills, sit me in my recliner and turn on Wheel of Fortune. :D
 
It's why I use this forum and don't really use any of the others.

It was especially frustrating being told I had to use X and only X when doing something cause everything else is garbage but you can't buy X in Canada. No interest in helping me compensate, just "Buy X or don't bother". Which is not cool.
 
When you're hot, you're hot...
 
Another low tech, but slick, and time saving DIY.
Cleaning beer lines is such a little thing to do, but setting up to do it is a pain (for me at least).
Not anymore with this little fella!
I can now remove the beer line when a keg kicks, connect it to my laundry faucet and run super hot water through it right away!
Lines may need a proper cleaning sometimes, but running 160F (71C) water through these lines each time should keep them clean enough.
I will immerse in sanitizer before connecting to another keg.
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Fittings are as follows:
Parker PN: 98GHSV-12-8
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Parker PN: 216P-8
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Parker Hose Products Div PN: 0502-10-8
Parker Tube Fittings Div PN: 10-1/2 F5OG-S
Generic Manufacturer PN: 6405-10-08
The #10 SAE/ORB thread is 7/8-14, same as tap shank threads!
Just remove the oring pictured, and use the seal washer from your tap.

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I have boxes of parts just like you described and the fitting that always breaks for me is a swivel connector, cant seem to find any worth the money :cool:

example of what breaks, these Chinese parts
https://www.amazon.com/HZFJ-Connector-Adapter-Fittings-Extension/dp/B08DNHVCVF

Parker does not have that size, in the GH Swivel x MNPT they only have 1/4" and 3/8" MNPT for some reason.
Fairview has this fitting though, part number 194-D. I never had any quality issues with Fairview Brass.
I have reached out to Fairview to see where you can buy their products in your area, will let you know when I hear back.
This is the business I am in, so I have access to anything hose and fitting wise at my place of work.

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Spring MUST be just around the corner!
Last fall I stashed a few hops plant I had started in pots in the garage. I keep it about 48*f as I go out and work in it quite a bit and have things I don't want frozen.
Anyway, I just noticed the plants are getting enough sunlight that they are coming alive!
 
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I can only really brew with the garage door open due to the rain that would fall inside the garage and soak everything because of the steam from the boil. Well that is until now - I hope.
I fitted a 45cm high frame at ground level between the garage door sides and installed a turbo (manufacturers description) in-line fan at one end. The fan is connected to a plastic bell-end (no not me!) that is suspended over the kettle using the coiled plastic ducting.
The bell is supported above the kettle top with spacers to allow air to be sucked in and, hopefully, carry the steam away down the ducting by the fan. The frame at the door allows me to shut the garage door down to the same level and stop any howling wind that I usually get battering the garage doorway - especially when I want to brew when the weather is crap.

Well that is the plan anyway. Test runs suggest it does work but because the bell is so thin there may be more condensation created than the fan can carry away. I could reduce the ducting length and insulate the bell to avoid that... I'll wait and see...

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