To make this more confusing, there are several types of Wheat Malts: white wheat, read wheat, pale wheat, carawheat, chocolate wheat, etc. Rye malts are even smaller than wheat malts. Be prepared to adjust the gap on your mill when using Rye or Wheat malt, or resort to the blender.

Option 1 – Plastic bag and a hammer:

This was a lot of work but it got the job done for the most part. This is really only feasible for a half pound of wheat malt or less. The plastic bag is ruined and you need a nice smooth concrete slab to hammer against. The floor of my brew shed worked well, but this took a good 10 minutes to complete.

You can still see a few whole kernels in this picture.

The bag is completely shot. Many small holes develop as part of the pulverization process.

Option 2 – Rolling pin and plastic bag:

This is completely out. I could not get enough pressure on the kernels to break them. Gave up after a minute.

Option 3 – Adjust the gap on your mill:

Great if your mill is easy to adjust and you can reliably adjust the gap back to the correct setting for standard malts. This is only viable for me if I am doing more than a couple pounds. Next time I make a Hefe, which requires 60% Wheat Malt, this is the option I will use.

Option 4 – Mill it twice:

Some people have reported they run the wheat malt through their mill twice. In my case this did not help at all. Way too much of the wheat malt was falling through without being crushed.

Option 5 – Use a Blender:

This is the winner! The blender is a cheap-o no name brand, with a weak motor and a dull blade. In other words, a fancy blender is not needed to mill wheat malt.

My approach is to crush 1-2 cups of wheat malt at a time. Adding just a touch of water really helps. Without water the kernels tend to bounce around too much. Some of the very fine flour got stuck in the bottom of the blender. In the final image below, a few kernels are left whole, but everything underneath it has been nicely ground and is ready to go into the mash.

Notes for All Grain brewers:

A protein rest is recommended when brewing with Wheat Malt (~120F for 20 minutes), but not required. If the grain bill has more than 25% Wheat Malt, it would be a good idea to add rice hulls to help prevent a stuck mash. When Wheat Malt is mashed it globs up and looks like oatmeal.

Wheat malt is traditional used in beers like Hefeweizen, Bavarian Weisse, Wizens, where it makes up 40-60% of the grain bill. Wheat malt can also be used in extract brewing as a steeping grain. Increasing, a small percentage (3-5%) of wheat malt is added to grain bills of all types of beer to aid in head retention and body. I have been experimenting with this myself.

Pellet Hops:

Pellet hops are hop cones which have been pulverized and then squeezed into compact little pellets. These hops are highly processed which generally leads to a slightly higher cost per ounce. Listed below are some facts about hop pellets:

• They are no less “fresh” than whole/loose leaf hops
• They are the easiest of the three to store as they are very compact and require less room
• The fact that they are pulverized leads to approximately 10% better utilization over leaf hops
• They are very effective as “dry hops” as well since the processing pulverizes the lupulin glands
• They stay fresh longer than plug or leaf hops due to being compacted into pellets, reducing surface area, and reducing oxidation of the alpha acids
• They settle out in the kettle and in the fermenter easily along with trub and yeast
• Soak up less wort than plug or leaf hops
• Cannot be strained from the wort easily, will plug strainer

Plug Hops:

Plug hops are nearly a hybrid of pellet and whole leaf hops, being whole leaf hops that are simply compressed into 2 oz. (typically) plugs, about the size of a wine cork. With this process you get leaf hops (not pulverized), but in a more compact state than if you simply buy loose leaf hops. Here are a few facts about plug hops:

• They are no less “fresh” than leaf hops
• They are much easier to store than leaf hops
• They have only slightly higher utilization than leaf hops
• They do not settle out in the kettle and fermenter nicely like pellet hops do
• You will need a way to filter out these hop leaves when transferring liquids so that they do not plug tubing, siphons and dip tubes
• They will retain freshness longer than loose leaf hops due to being compressed, thus leading to less surface area and oxidation.
• Will soak up noticeably more wort than pellet hops
• Can be strained from the wort easily
• Design to fit through the neck of a carboy

Whole Leaf Hops:
Leaf hops are just that… the whole leaf, nothing else. These hops are also called loose leaf hops, as they are simply dry hop cones, not pulverized and not compressed in any way. Typically, these are cheaper to purchase than pellet or plug hops as there is less processing involved, but this is not always the case. Here are some facts about loose leaf hops:

• They are no more “fresh“ than pellet or plug hops
• They require much more space to store (3-4x as much)
• They do not settle out in the kettle and fermenter nicely like pellet hops do
• You will need a way to filter out these hop leaves when transferring liquids so that they do not plug tubing, siphons, chillers and dip tubes
• Due to their loose structure and greater surface area, these hops are more susceptible to oxidation and degradation than plug hops, and much more so than pellet hops.
• Will soak up noticeably more wort than pellet hops
• Can be strained from the wort easily

Finally, to preserve the characteristics (alpha acids) of any hops, you should vacuum seal them in either a vacuum sealed plastic bag, or in vacuum sealed Mason jars. Once sealed, the hops should be frozen, or at the very least, stored cold. Doing so will mitigate the dangers of oxidizing the hops and keep them fresh much longer. If you do have the capability to store hops vacuum sealed and frozen, you also open up the possibility of buying them in bulk and saving 50%-75% over buying them at most local home brew stores.

However, if the labels you planted next to the vines have faded & run since you planted them, or if your hop harvest didn’t come from a garden, but from a fortunate find of a hop plant at the state park or growing over the fence from a neighbor, identifying what you’ve got is a bit more important to you.

Visually, one species of hop cone looks much like another, so just looking won’t help. Aroma can be a huge indicator of the hop type, so you should start with that. If your hops are dried (which they should be, after harvest!), they won’t have a lot of aroma initially. Take the cone between your palms of your hands, rub your hands together, and then cup them near your nose and inhale. The hop aroma should be strong enough to identify any significant aromatic markers, such as the citrus aroma of Cascade or Centennial hop.

Some folks claim that the only way to really identify a hop is to brew with it. While that might work, there’s an easier way to identify the flavors & bitterness of a hop without risking a batch of beer. Once you’ve crushed the hop between your hands and smelled the aroma, throw your teakettle on the stove & heat some water to boiling. Making hop tea is the next-best thing to brewing with it, so toss your crushed cone in a cup and add boiling water. Let it steep for about five minutes to fifteen minutes, and then smell the aroma again. It should be fainter, but still the same notes as you smelled before. Strain the hops out of your tea, and then take a sip of the tea, checking for both flavor and bitterness. Because it’s a small amount of hop, steeped for a short amount of time, bitterness will be minimal (relative to your beer), but a highly bitter hop will be noticeable.

One word of caution: do not chew on the hop directly. It’s tempting and a fun prank to play on novice brewers, but the intensity of the bitterness will drown out other flavors in the hop, making identification harder, not easier. You get better flavors and a better balance from making the ‘tea’, and your palate isn’t smothered afterward.

Malted barley can be classified in several categories:

• Pale Malts (base malts)
• Crystal (caramel)
• Roasted (highly kilned)

The following is an overview of the particulars with each malt type, including the kilning/roasting process, typical mash temperatures, mash times and any special instructions for their use.

Pale Malt (2 row and pilsner base malt):

Kilning/Roasting: The kilning temperature is quite low, between 104F and 113F. The ventilation is very high and therefore the malt is dried to a moisture content of 10% very quickly. Once below 10% the temperature can be raised, raising the temperature earlier would result in the destruction of too many enzymes. The low moisture content protects the enzymes. Pale malts are generally cured at 176F to 203F for about 5 hours.

Mash Temperature:
Beta Amylase 131F-150F, maltose is produced Lower final gravity, dryer beer.
Alpha Amylase 154F-162F, maltose and other sugars are produced. Higher final gravity, maltier beer.

Mash Time: Conversion can be complete in anywhere from 30 minutes to 90 minutes. The lower the mashing temperature, the longer conversion will take, the higher the temperature the faster conversion will be. Typical mashes are approximately 60 minutes.

Special Instructions: This malt MUST be mashed to convert starches to sugars. The mash temperature will determine the fermentability of the final wort and must be monitored closely.

Crystal (caramel malt):

Kilning/Roasting: This is imperative when compared to the kilning process of the pale malts. Crystal malts when wet (green) are put into the kiln or roaster from the germination tanks and the moisture is kept very high with absolutely no ventilation. Additionally water is frequently sprayed to keep the moisture high. The temperature is raised to 140F to 158F for 30 to 40 minutes. Then the temperature is raised to 302F and normal ventilation is resumed for 1 to 2 hours, depending on how much caramelization is desired (i.e. depending on whether 10L crystal or 120L crystal is being made). If prepared in the kiln, further drying is necessary.

This process essentially causes conversion to take place inside the husk (moisture and heat), therefore denaturing the enzymes and converting the starches to sugars. This removes the need for this malt to be mashed, and therefore it can be steeped in hot water for extract brewing.

Mash Temperature: No need to be mashed as the starches were converted in the kilning process. This malt can be steeped for extract brewing, or used in a mash with the remainder of an AG mash.

Mash Time: No mash needed. Generally mashed with the remainder of the grain bill.

Special Instructions: These sugars are not as fermentable, resulting in a fuller, maltier beer. Use as 5% to 25% of the grain bill.

Roasted Malt (highly kilned malt):

Kilning/Roasting: Creating this malt is a matter of taking a typical pale malt similar to Pilsner or 2 Row and place it in a roasting drum. Water is sometimes used to cool the malt quickly when the roasting is complete. The main difference between this roasting and the curing of Pale malts is temperature and time, both being increased in the production of this malt.

Mash Temperature: No need to be mashed as the starches were converted in the kilning process. This malt can be steeped for extract brewing, or used in a mash with the remainder of an AG mash.

Mash Time: No need to be mashed as the starches were converted in the kilning process. This malt can be steeped for extract brewing, or used in a mash with the remainder of an AG mash.

Special Instructions: Dark roasted malts can provide needed color and flavor to darker beers, but can also add some bitter astringency. One technique to provide a smoother flavor is to add this malt at the end of the mash so as to lessen the astringency it can contribute.

The easiest approach is to use flavor extracts. These small bottles (typically 4 to 8 ounces) can be purchased from most homebrew stores or online. Four ounces is enough to provide adequate flavor for a 5 gallon batch. The extract should be added late in the fermentation, one to two weeks prior to bottling. This will allow time for the flavors to blend together, without losing aroma. The more complex flavors a beer has, the longer it should be bottle conditioned for maximum enjoyment. The drawbacks to extracts are fairly simple. First, flavor options are limited: you’re much more likely to find a “cherry” flavor extract than a “black cherry” or “Bing cherry” extract. Dovetailing this issue is the problem that flavor extracts may have an overpowering, even artificial flavor. Banana flavor extract may taste more like banana-flavored candy than actual bananas.

The next option is to add fresh fruit to the fermenting beer. To achieve best results, a wide-mouthed carboy or covered bucket should be used for the primary fermenter. The fruit should be rinsed clean and gently crushed. (not pulped; apply just enough pressure to break the skin) Once the wort has finished boiling, remove it from the heat source, add the crushed fruit, and cover it. Let the fruit sit in the hot wort for about 5 minutes. In cooking terms, this is somewhere between “blanching” and “poaching” the fruit. Strain out the fruit, chill the wort, add the wort to the fermenter, and return the fruit to the wort once the yeast has been added. After one week, rack the beer off to a normal carboy, and thoroughly clean your fermenter. Using fresh fruit is highly dependant on supply, and this approach will give the fruit flavor, but none of the fruit’s sweetness, which will be rapidly consumed by the yeast. The result is a nice natural flavor with a nice aroma; don’t underestimate the strength of the flavor. This approach works in stouts and porters as well as it does in wheat beers and pale ales.

Your last option is to boil your wort an additional hour, reducing the volume by one gallon. Ferment as usual, but a week prior to bottling, you’ll be adding your fruit. Take 1 gallon of water, add your crushed fruit to the water, and simmer it at 160 degrees for half an hour. It is essential that the temperature not go above this level; more heat (or more time) will release pectins and other jelling agents, and instead of beer, you’ll get jam. After thirty minutes, chill the water & fruit to below 70 degrees, and add it to your beer. By adding it later, you’ll retain more of the aroma, and some of the fruit sweetness. The trade-off is that this approach is much more work.

First, begin with your wood. Most homebrewing stores will sell oak chips of varying colors and origins. Since the goal is to add only a hint of this flavor, only a few ounces are necessary, 2-8 ounces for a 5-6 gallon batch. Liquor & wine are similarly used in only minute amounts. The strongest of Russian Imperial Stouts might use 12 ounces of whiskey, while a delicate Belgian triple would be overwhelmed by more than 2 ounces of bourbon. Again, that’s 2 ounces for a 5 gallon batch.

Once you’ve decided on the volumes of wood chips and adjunct alcohol, mix the two in a glass jar or other nonporous container. (If you use plastic, label it and only use it for that purpose afterwards) Add enough water to fully cover the chips (usually ¼ cup to 1 cup), seal, and place out of direct sunlight. After about two weeks, the liquid in the container will have taken on a darker color from the wood, and can be poured into the fermenting beer. Because you’re adding an aromatic, you should wait until the initial fermentation blow-off is done (at least one week) or you’ll lose a lot of the nose. For a more intense flavor, you can choose to add both the liquid and the wood chips and let them ferment with the beer for a few weeks. The alcohol will have sterilized the wood chips, eliminating the risk of infection.

Tuning water to a particular style of beer adds a lot of fun and satisfaction. Balancing flavor ions gives absolute control over the final product. Water chemistry is also important for hitting the correct pH in the mash and can impact efficiency.

The first thing to do is obtain your local water report. Most cities provide this online with far more information than you will use in brewing. The values to look for are:

• Calcium (Ca⁺²)

• Magnesium (Mg⁺²)

• Sulfates (SO₄^-2)

• Sodium (Na⁺)

• Chloride (Cl^-)

• Bicarbonate / Alkalinity

Brewers living in cities with soft water are the most fortunate because they have complete control over the mineral levels in their brewing water. For brewers in places with hard water (high alkalinity and mineral content), dilution with distilled water and then re-adding depleted minerals is the easiest solution. Well water is a tough one as it will require lab analysis to be sure what the levels are, but it can be expected to be packed with minerals.

To help navigate all this information, we created the Brewer’s Friend water chemistry calculator. It helps you hit target concentrations and advises about minimum and maximum levels for each ion. Too much of a given salt can ruin the beer and cause side effects to those who drink it. The calculator also reports how the ion concentrations impact the flavor and bitterness of the beer.

The Brewing Salts:

Adjusting your source water the target water is done through adding a combination of brewing salts.

• Chalk – Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3)
  Boosts alkalinity and source of calcium. Good for adding alkalinity to soft water for brewing dark beers.

• Baking soda – Sodium Bicarbonate (NaHCO3),

  Boosts alkalinity and source of sodium.

• Gypsum – Calcium Sulfate (CaSO4 * 2 H20)

  Source of calcium, sulfate enhances hop bittering, but must be balanced with chlorides.

• Calcium Chloride (CaCl2 * 2 H20)

  Source of calcium for low chloride water.

• Epsom salt – Magnesium Sulfate (MgSO4 * 7 H20)

  Sulfate enhances hop bittering, but must be balanced with chlorides. Magnesium has a low ppm threshold for being safe (brewing range 0-30ppm), so use this one sparingly if at all.

Target ranges for mineral levels in beer brewing:

Flavor Ions:

• Calcium (Ca⁺²) – target range of 50-150 ppm
• Magnesium (Mg⁺²) – target range of 0-30 ppm
• Sulfate (SO₄^-2)- target range 50-150 ppm for normal beers, 150-350ppm for highly bitter beers.
• Sodium (Na⁺) – target range 0-150 ppm
• Chloride (Cl^-) – target range 0-250 ppm.

Harmful levels:
Concentrations above these levels are harmful to the beer, and much beyond they become harmful to our health!

• Calcium (Ca⁺²) – 250 ppm
• Magnesium (Mg⁺²) – 50 ppm
• Sulfate (SO₄^-2) – above 750 ppm
• Sodium (Na⁺) – above 200 ppm
• Chloride (Cl^-) – above 300 ppm

Sulphate and Chloride should be balanced in beer:

• 2:1 SO4 to Cl is good for bitter beer
• 1:2 SO4 to Cl for mild ales
• 1:3 SO4 to Cl for stouts and porters
• Chloride and Sodium add the maltiness of a beer.
• Sulfate highlights bitterness and reduces malt flavor.

Alkalinity Range:

Alkalinity impacts the pH of the mash, a key factor in efficiency. Bicarbonate (HCO₃^-) – ppm depends on style of beer, lower for lighter beers, higher for darker beers.

• 0-50 for pale beers
• 50-150 for amber beers
• 150-400 for dark beers

Sources:
Palmer, John, How To Brew, 2006
Daniels, Ray, Designing Great Beers, 1996

Hops also contain beta acids, which contribute to aroma only. The more alpha acids the more bittering potential per ounce. For example, one ounce of Northern Brewer (8.5) is roughly equivalent of two ounces of Domestic Hallertau (3.9) in terms of bittering potential.

This chart is a general guideline only. The actual AA varies from year to year depending on the weather, harvest conditions, and storage.

If you do not see your hops listed here please leave a comment or send us feedback and we will find out for you!

In general, bulk LME will produce a beer that is darker, and retains a sweet caramel flavor. This may be desirable depending on the style of beer that is being made. Certain specialty LME’s come pre-hopped and might also be designed for a specific style of beer.

In terms of how much fermentable sugar you get:
LME is ~37 points/pound/gallon
DME is ~46 points/pound/gallon

LME is a thick syrup and is cheaper by the pound (because it is 20% water), but that does not translate into more sugars per dollar. DME is in a powder form (LME with the water removed). On a per point of SG basis, they are about the same cost. Both come in varying degrees of color (extra light, light, amber, dark, etc). They are also available as a 60/40 wheat/barley mix.

LME Pro’s:
Great for beginner brewers.
Available in specialty varieties, some pre-hopped.

LME Con’s:
Darkens beer more so than the DME counterpart.
Caramel flavor imparted.
If bought in bulk you need to supply your own jar or buy one at the store to bring it home in.

DME Pro’s:
DME is sold in vacuum sealed bags and is easier store for longer periods of time (as opposed to LME which is either canned, kept in a jar which may contain air which degrades the quality).
A more neutral base, as it does not impart its own characteristics, allowing total flexibility in terms of steeping grains.

DME Con’s:
Can lead to boil over if not stirred enough before boiling is reached.

Most people start with LME and then switch to DME plus steeping grains on their way to becoming all-grain brewers.