Comments on: Australian NO CHILL Brewing Technique TESTED

By: Can an old HDPE can be used for no-chill method? - Home Brew Forums

Can an old HDPE can be used for no-chill method? - Home Brew Forums — Sun, 01 May 2011 19:20:43 +0000

[...] for your answer. I noticed that this guy http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/06/06/australian-no-chill-brewing-technique-tested/ uses a HDPE container. It is, however, a container of better quality than the one I [...]

By: Larry

Larry — Sat, 02 Apr 2011 16:48:16 +0000

> One question, do you see any problem with doing the “no chill” in a glass carboy?

Big problem here! The glass could crack on you if you pour that much boiling wort into it. Cool it down to 80F in the kettle first, then drain into the glass carboy. The lid on your kettle isn’t a very good seal, so germs could creep in.

By: Joe

Joe — Fri, 01 Apr 2011 17:46:32 +0000

Very cool article! Look forward to trying next batch. One question, do you see any problem with doing the “no chill” in a glass carboy? I was going to try this with a stopper. Will the vacuum be way too much for this method?

Alternately, I bet I could use an S-curve type water lock, filled with vodka (or something stronger). This would allow air in, but might not kill all the bad bugs…

By: Freddo

Freddo — Sun, 20 Mar 2011 06:24:31 +0000

I have been brewing full grain “no chill” for a couple of years now and find that if I do not transfer the wort to the plastic fermenter after boiling for about half an hour or so then the temperature has dropped to maybe 60 deg C (or a bit above) and there is still no chance of contamination. The only thing is that I think the IBUs creep up a little over what is calculated in Beer Smith. Still, I haven’t found anyone who can pick the IBUs in beer accurately using their own taste buds.
I am sereously looking for a decent bag to go BIAG.
Can anyone tell me where to by one? My boiler is 400mm dia & 400mm deep.

By: Larry

Larry — Tue, 08 Feb 2011 05:05:12 +0000

nowash,
You must be pretty far below sea level if your boiling temp is 225F! Standard boiling temp is 212F and goes down from there with higher elevation.

Correct, the wort is going into the container at near boiling temperatures. As for the plastic, it needs to be rated for 212F+. That’s why I personally use an immersion chiller to cool the wort. Plastic is in our food supply enough as it is! I really don’t want plastic in my beer in any amount.

By: nowashburn

nowashburn — Mon, 07 Feb 2011 14:53:24 +0000

What temperature is the wort going into the HDPE container? I boil at 225F +, wouldn’t this be too hot to put into the plastic?

By: Larry

Larry — Mon, 31 Jan 2011 01:52:32 +0000

I think FWH in that case would be to add the hops after you remove the grain and start draining the bag. With no-chill the hops would continue to ‘cook’ for awhile as the temperature cools down. I don’t do no-chill because even though the bucket says food rated there has to be some of it going into the wort at those temperatures.

By: Jeff

Jeff — Mon, 31 Jan 2011 01:08:05 +0000

So for a batch of BIAB + no-chill, it seems it would make sense to dry-hop the finishing/aroma hops. Or is there a way to “FWH” the bag brew?

By: Cliff Pankonien

Cliff Pankonien — Tue, 23 Nov 2010 00:09:11 +0000

I’m pretty sure it’s ok at boiling temps, as the Coopers kits call for boiling water (albeit only a quart or so). I also found another post where someone actually reached out to Coopers to confirm that. I guess I’ll give it a try, once I get a valve installed on my kettle. Thanks!

By: Larry

Larry — Sat, 20 Nov 2010 23:08:50 +0000

I’d make sure the plastic is rated for those temperatures first.